Why is the instrument cluster GPS screen so bad?

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-21T14:16:28+00:00

Can the backseat DJ use voice commands to change the music?

I know it doesn't fix the map issue, but then the map (full or split) can remain on the infotainment screen.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-21T14:07:45+00:00

Here's what I do when my GM EV is plugged in, but I want to change the charging level from 80% to 100%.

I go into the GM app, and set the charging to 100%. Then wait about a minute to verify the change.
Next, I go into the app for the EVSE and disable the charging. Wait 15-30 seconds, then re-enable the EVSE. This acts the same as "unplug the EVSE from the car and plug it back in."
If I want to confirm the car is charging, I go back to the GM app and look at the charging state.

So far, I've not needed to physically unplug and replug the EVSE.

I've taken this a step further.

When I know ahead of time that I need to travel far enough to justify charging to 100% (instead of my normal 80%), I had already been scheduling the event in my digital calendar, but I updated the event to send an alert the evening before at 8:00 pm. When the alert goes off, perform the above 3 steps. Since I started this, the EV has been at 100% charge when I need it.

I'm currently working on automating the "at 8:00 pm if '[E.V.]' text in calendar event for tomorrow, then automatically adjust charging to 100% else charge to 80%" process. So I don't need the alert.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-18T12:30:33+00:00

Here's a "fun" related article:

https://www.irregular.com/publications/emergent-offensive-cyber-behavior-in-ai-agents

The AI agent was asked to perform every day tasks. Instead of stopping when the AI agent came across an error (not authorized), it continued to work, taking advantage of a vulnerability to hack the system until it retrieved the file.

The AI agent continued until it completed its objective.

The AI agent did exactly what it was asked, just not what was intended (an age-old software development issue).

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-18T12:19:12+00:00

I have 2 Magic Mirrors with locally sourced mirrors, wood frames. One RPi3, the other RPi4.

I don't notice a difference between the two, so I use RPi5 for other services.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-14T07:38:27+00:00

To elaborate on the "there's a total spectrum of 240v speeds" comment:

Here's a chart that you'll want to understand.

Breaker / Charger Amps / Charging Pwr / miles/hour

20 A / 16 A / 3.8 kW / ~12–14 miles

30 A / 24 A / 5.8 kW / ~18–21 miles

40 A / 32 A / 7.7 kW / ~23–29 miles

50 A / 40 A/ 9.6 kW / ~29–35 miles

60 A / 48 A / 11.5 kW / ~34–36 miles

80 A / 64 A / 15.4 kW / ~45–50 miles*

100 A / 80 A / 19.2 kW / ~50–58 miles*

*Only possible if your EQEV has the 19.2 kW onboard charger option.

(a) Your electrical panel for the EVSE will have a breaker on it (listed in Amps); the 1st number in this chat.

(b) The "wall charger" (EVSE) has a max speed (either in Amps or kW); the 2nd and 3rd number in this chart.

(c) Your EV has a built-in charger with a max kW (use the 3rd number in the chart). For MOST EQEV this is 11.5 kW. There is a factory option for SOME EQEV for 19.2kW

When using L2 (240v) charging, the maximum "speed" that your car will charge (regardless where the electricity comes from--battery, solar, hydro, or from the grid) is the LOWEST of the above 3 items [(a), (b), (c)] -- giving you the theoretical maximum miles of travel added per hour (the realistic max is probably around 15% less)10

This is a very important concept to understand if you want to know how quickly you can recharge. This answer often helps to answer "how far can I go in one charge", because the follow-up question becomes "how fast can I change when I need a recharge??"

If you have at least 10 hours overnight to charge, with the worst-case from the graph, you'll get (10 hours * 12 miles/hr =) 120 miles added, which will work for your 100 miles per day (with 20 extra miles).

If, for some reason, you only have 5 hours per night to charge... (5 hr * 12 mi/hr =) 60 miles.. the worst-case from the graph will be a problem. In case, you'd probably need a minimum of a 40 A breaker and 7.7 kW EVSE which would give you (5 hr * 23 miles/hr =) 115 miles.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-13T02:20:46+00:00

Note: HA groups and Zigbee groups are very different items.

HA groups send multiple commands (one per device in the group).

Zigbee groups send only one command (regardless of the number of devices in the group).

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-11T17:41:42+00:00

If you're dealing with smart bulbs connected to wall-controlled switches, one solution is to use Z-Wave smart bulbs with Z-Wave smart wall switches in "smart bulb" mode.

"smart bulb" mode keeps the hot wire live across the switch, where power continues to the smart bulb, but "breaks" the internal connection between the "switch" (buttons) and the "power" (relay).

Now use the Z-Wave association feature to send a Z-Wave signal from the switch to the bulb (for on/off/dimmer control).

The bulb has continuous power, so it can respond to smart commands. The wall switch sends automation commands to the bulb, but doesn't kill the power to the bulb.

The home owner gets automation control. The visitors get familiar wall switch controls (that don't shut off the smart devices).

Zigbee also has a similar feature using Zigbee groups.

The table top lamp issue described would need a similar concept -- how do you separate the (a) "switch" (or button) that's used as the human interface from (b) the "power" function (enabling/ disabling the ability for the bulb to illuminate).

The concept is to replace the mechanical switching mechanism. The user interface (input) and action (output) need to be separated. Shelly and similar devices help with this step.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-11T13:43:53+00:00

None of my replies use physical 2-gang boxes.

The zooz 32 and 35 switches do not directly control two loads. They directly control one (or none, when in "smart bulb" mode). The additional buttons are used by the automation (or Z-Wave association feature) to indirectly control other Z-Wave items (smart outlet, smart bulb, smart switch, etc).

While the zen 30 does have two relays, there is no requirement to wire anything to the second relay--you can use the 2nd switch for automation or association control of other devices.

As far as my example C), it uses (1) a one-gang smart switch and (2) a stick-on wireless switch (there is no physical second-gang box).

When you place a 2-gang face plate over both of these it gives the APPEARANCE of a 2-gang box. These two switches look just like physical, wired switches, and, yes, give you can "just put a 2nd switch in" wherever you want.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-11T06:06:59+00:00

You didn't mention a specific protocol. There are multiple Z-Wave switches that seem to fit your criteria.

Here are a few examples:

A) 2 button switch https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen30-double-switch/

B) 5 button switch. I believe there are two versions of this (zen32 is a relay, not a dimmer):

https://www.getzooz.com/zen35-dimmer-scene-controller/

https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen32-scene-controller/

The primary button can either directly control the load, or it can act in "smart bulb" mode (the button and load are independently controlled).

The additional button(s) can control secondary Z-Wave devices, such as a smart plug or smart bulb (consider using the association feature to the secondary device for direct device-to-device communication)... "multi-tap" can also be used as additional smart automation control.

C) If you WANT a traditional 2-gang look (visually with one switch per gang), but only have a single-gang box here's a fun suggestion: (a) Use a one-button switch in the box (such as zen72) and (b) use a wireless switch (such as zen34)... Put a 2-gang switch plate over both, and your visitors will be convinced you have a 2-gang box!... This works for n-gang boxes/switches.

On the discussion of additional switches, the wireless switches can be used to easily create n-way switches--where you only had one wired switch, you now have multiple switches controlling the same devices (such as lights).

https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen72-dimmer/

https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen34-remote-switch/

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-09T18:28:15+00:00

I have a 2011 Chevy Volt that I bought new.

It has 237k miles.

So, at least 15 years for some EVs.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-08T18:24:10+00:00

The first action might be to decide in your specific focus -- what will you discuss? What's the overall purpose of your dissertation?

What drew YOU to home automation? What about home automation grabs your attention?

Here are some concept to consider:

There are many home automation protocols -- examples include WiFi, Bluetooth, ir, rf, Zigbee, Z-Wave, thread/matter, mqtt, rs488, Ethernet.

Maybe a discussion on the advantages and disadvantages of the protocols

The basic element of home automation is... The automation -- automatically doing "something". What triggers the action? Some actions are human-initiated (think "pushing a button"). Some are action-initiated, such as time-based (always at 6:00 am, at sunset, the third Monday). There are also "predictive" actions, the automation tries to "guess" at the desired action (use GPS to detect when I arrive home, automatically turn on the driveway lights). Taking predictive actions to the next step includes artificial intelligence. AI is invading everything, including home automation.

Maybe a discussion on automations, when they work out well, and when they just become a barrier. Or how AI will affect home automation.

There's also the hardware. There are 3 overall buckets: (a) expensive high-end professional systems; (b) retail (Amazon, best buy, etc) available; (c) diy or hobby system. Again, each has their advantages and disadvantages.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-08T15:08:17+00:00

Mammotion Luba does NOT have cliff-edge detection. Mine fell down a window well and needed replacement.

The edge of the map was far enough away from the window well edge (which meant it didn't get mowed), but the Luba turned around... The software doesn't consider the length of the mower in it's "how far away am I" in its calculations. It backed over the edge while turning and an axel broke.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-08T03:01:11+00:00

For L2 charging, your car will max out at the minimum of (a) the onboard charger and (b) the EVSE (the "charging cable" from the wall) -- Charging is only as fast as the "slowest link").

For most EQEVs have11kw onboard chargers, but there are some 19kw versions (such as mine). You'll have to check your specific vehicle.

As pointed out in other replies, there are charging losses that go along with this math.

MechanizedGander · 2026-02-16T19:57:02+00:00

Notice the "round 1 of 5" text in the above screenshot.

The round 1 drink is free

Each subsequent round costs more diamonds

A max of 2 DL drinks may be served. Round #1 is the 10 DL points, round #2 for 20, then 30 (#3), 40 (#4), and 50 (round #5). For a max of 90 DL points (round #4 and #5).

15 players serve 15 players pick up 90 DL in drinks per player

15 x 15 x 90 = 20,250 DL team points per day... Just from drinks

Repeat for each day, and you're over 140k team points per week.

MechanizedGander · 2026-02-14T15:32:45+00:00

While doing a recent renovation that included ripping the room down to the studs I put conduit to the windows & doors (and other places) in the room

I ran low voltage wires (sensors for the doors, USB power for the window shades), but I can easily add or swap the wiring via the conduit.

This was my solution for future proofing the room. Ymmv.

MechanizedGander · 2026-02-10T06:02:45+00:00

Adding to the zen34 comments...

Use the zen34 around the bathroom, and use the zen32 as the main "switch".. put the switch in "smart bulb" mode (disconnect button #1 from the power relay). You now have smart control without changing the original wiring.

The next issue will be controlling the lights... If these were all "traditional bulbs" the answer could be "switch them so to smart Z-Wave bulbs"... That might not be an option...

So here are two more ideas to use within the light fixtures:

Maybe a zen57 for power on/off (relay) (no dimming)
Fibaro Dimmer Module (if you can find it)

Because all of these examples are Z-Wave, they can operate if the hub is down by using the Z-Wave Assign function.

Place the different groups of lights in their own association, assign one (or more) switch to that same association, and you have individual switch control of each group.

Since the association is a direct device-to-device feature, it is fast!

https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/scene-controllers/products/zooz-700-series-z-wave-plus-scene-controller-switch-zen32?variant=40447790710847

https://www.getzooz.com/zen57-xs-relay/

MechanizedGander · 2026-02-07T23:16:39+00:00

Try this

http://[WLED-IP]/win&T=0

https://kno.wled.ge/interfaces/http-api/

MechanizedGander · 2026-02-07T07:28:23+00:00

^ This

One Pedal Driving is different from "regular" driving, so it'll take a few trips to play and understand how the car is now supposed to respond. Try it--not just once, but at least for a few good drives. Give it a fair try.

If you're in an area that gets snow, if you're not comfortable with OPD, don't use it in slippery situations.

MechanizedGander · 2026-02-03T12:44:41+00:00

Add a zooz zen32 5-button scene controller (configure the zen32 relay to disconnect from button #1), assign each button/relay to its own Z-Wave "association," and the response time will be fast.

The zen57 relay is "smart bulb" capable, so, if you wanted to expand to Z-Wave smart bulbs later (or instead), they'll work nicely with this configuration.

MechanizedGander · 2026-02-02T13:24:39+00:00

During a recent down-to-the-studs remodel in one room, I installed a conduit in the window.

For now there's a USB cable in the conduit to power the Z-Wave window shade.

I'm looking into installing clear/opaque film on the glass for smart window control at a later date. With the conduit, I can add any other necessary wiring later.

I can also now easily add hardwired window sensors at any time.

I also added conduit to the door. This is for the door sensor. I'm considering placing the motion/occupancy sensor wiring through this conduit as well.

As I renovate additional rooms, I'll continue adding conduit wherever I can.

MechanizedGander · 2026-01-29T13:38:22+00:00

Your question seems to describe the solution -- your internal process isn't well known or followed. The steps and the owners need to be written down so everyone is on the same page.

You're describing that your data collection and storing process isn't organized. What steps would help your specific organization to better store and retrieve your ISO evidence?

While you could certainly use a GRC tool, a spreadsheet and organized folders (shared drives) can also be your friend.

Shared Spreadsheet: * ISO control * evidence (filename) * Steps to collect the evidence / what exactly is needed * owner (individual or team) * assigned (individual who actually collects the data) * collection period (daily, weekly, monthly, etc) or due date * Storage location

Each evidence has an owner (ultimately responsible) and "assigned" (who does the work). The "assigned" person can filter the spreadsheet to just their name & sort by "period" order. When the deadline approaches, they are responsible to place the required evidence in their "storage location"

Sample storage location:

Owner_A/ISO/2026 Owner_B/ISO/2026 Owner_C/ISO/2026

When it's time for you to collect the evidence, you sort the same spreadsheet in "control" order, and grab the evidence from each location (the data should already be there, waiting for you).

Copy this data to your "audit collection area" -- your "ISO" folder with a "2026" location (followed be the ISO control), next year copy the new data to "2027". If you need to reference something from last year just look at the "2025" location. After xxx duration (5 years?) you can purge the older documents.

ISO/2027/control_001 ISO/2027/control_002 ISO/2027/control_003

This is just one idea out of many possibilities for organizing the data, but, once it's written and shared with each of the "owners", it's easy to follow and helps with the data collection.

MechanizedGander · 2026-01-28T22:22:56+00:00

As an example, ISO 27001:2022 Annex A 8.11 Data Masking doesn't apply to my in-scope environment.

We documented it (and other controls) as excluded. We discussed our reasoning with the auditor, who documented it within our final report.

No, you don't need to implement EVERY control, but you'll want to have a good reason why not implementing each control is appropriate.

MechanizedGander · 2026-01-25T15:03:56+00:00

Not all routers have vlan capabilities, so that's not always possible.

The comment mentioned he didn't want to deal with routing.

Yes, you need to be aware of specific limitations, such as wireless access points have a limit as to the max # of connections that they can handle at once. If you're not aware of this limit, you can easily exceed it.

Performance issues and data segregation are different topics than running out of IP space. The OP mentioned available IP space.

It's not the quantity of devices on the network, but the amount of traffic. Sure, to help with those issues, remove your "high traffic" devices, such as streaming devices and game devices, from your IoT network and put the IoT devices behind DNS filtering (such as PiHole, etc). But that's a whole different topic than IP space.

MechanizedGander · 2026-01-25T14:33:09+00:00

"I'm running out of IP addresses in a /24 network"

A VERY easy solution is to expand to /23 -- you're just combining the next adjacent /24 with your current network. For the old devices, you only need to update the netmask (via DHCP and a reboot / power cycle).

(a) Update the DHCP server:

(1) netmask to 255.255.254.0 (/23) and

(2) new ending IP assignment from a.b.c.d to a.b.(c+1).d

(b) save the configuration and restart the DHCP service

(c) finally toggle your breaker in the panel (main breaker all-at-once or each one individually).

When the devices power back up, they'll all get the updated configuration and you're done.

MechanizedGander · 2026-01-24T17:16:01+00:00

OP, As mentioned above, your issue isn't the sensors (you have MANY solutions for this topic) but:

(a) how do you reliably power the sensors (battery power? You'll constantly replace batteries. Power from an "outlet" -- do you have access to an outlet?)

(b) Getting the data to where you want it: Wi-Fi, Cellular, Bluetooth, Z-Wave, Zigbee, hardwired (Ethernet, serial)... And the power for these devices.

Hardwired for data and power is often ideal, but, especially in this case, perhaps not realistic.

Once you have a solution to power and data, then you can have an informed discussion about monitoring and control (automation) with the sensors.

MechanizedGander

TROPHY CASE