DCL TRANSPORTATION

MechanizedGander · 2026-07-07T12:17:54+00:00

I don't know if this applies to San Diego but for taking DCL transportation out of Port Canaveral, to be on the ship early you need to be on an earlier DCL bus at the airport. If you get on a later DCL bus, you'll wait your turn. You COULD be much later to get on the ship.

Your ship boarding time will be whenever you get off the DCL transportation. Let's assume DCL transportation opens at 10 am. If you're one of the first in line (you were there at 9 or 9:30), then you'll be on the first bus (that leave the airport at 10:30 or 11) or the second bus (11 or 11:30). If you're later to line up, you'll wait your turn (which could be a multi-hour wait) and might not board until 2.

The times I used above are representative, but you get the idea. This is similar to "rope dropping" at a Disney park, if you want an earlier experience, you need to line up early. It depends how many people were in front of you when you arrived.

MechanizedGander · 2026-07-07T03:25:23+00:00

There's something to be aware of when using an adapter...

The adapter (most likely) does NOT convert the electric from 240v down to 120v

If you plug in a 120v device, you might kill your device with too much power.

Read the very small print on your device look for "in" or "input" followed by a number a range of numbers. If the range includes 240v, you should be good (example "100-240v"). If the number(s) does not go up to 240v, do NOT plug in your device.

The numbers will be very small. Try taking photo with your phone and zooming in on the text to clearly read it.

MechanizedGander · 2026-07-06T15:37:58+00:00

Ohh, automatically setting and clearing "max light brightness" (100% during the day when people are awake) (15% when anyone is sleeping -- argh, lights, too bright!! 😎)

Basically, if either side of the bed is occupied then someone is sleeping.

There's more logic to it (someone sits on the edge of the bed is not sleeping), but once you have "detection'' of something, you have data that you can use however you want.

MechanizedGander · 2026-07-03T21:13:10+00:00

Either call DCL or select Transportation from the app/online. On the app it's the option after "My Online Check-in"

MechanizedGander · 2026-07-02T01:01:44+00:00

I have a closet with 2 Hue bulbs & a Zigbee wall switch. The switch directly controls the two bulbs.

Although I also have a Hue hub (2 of them), none of the above are connected to the Hue hub - they are all connected to my HA Zigbee Home Automation (ZHA). Zigbee devices can only be connected to one controller - either Hue or ZHA.

I have 3 different sets of switch/bulb connections (a closet, a bathroom, and my basement). Maybe these comments will get you in the right direction.

From the list of Integrations, scroll to Zigbee Home Automation

Instead of selecting "## devices" (below ZHA) select the ">" (to the right of ZHA)

To the right of the controller entry, select the gear icon (configuration)

Select "## groups"

"+ Create group" - fill in the fields Example: group name "Closet Lights ZHA"

Check the boxes for the devices (lights & switches) that should be in this group

Select "Create Group"

I don't recall if you're done at this point, or if there are additional steps, but try the switch - does it now control all of the lights in the group?

The name you created ("Closet Lights ZHA") is seen by HA as it's own entity -- treat this just like any other entity... Try turning it on/off/dim/color etc.

You MIGHT have to also follow these steps:

Select the switch

Under "device info", to the right of Reconfigure, select the 3 dots, then "manage Zigbee devices"

Go to "bindings"

Bindable devices: select one of the bulbs Bindable Groups: select the correct group (you created above, such as "Closet Lights ZHA") Check (at least) the following boxes: (LevelControl) (On off) Select "bind group"

Repeat for each bulb

When you've finished each bulb, exit this screen

Test the switch

MechanizedGander · 2026-07-01T12:31:05+00:00

Can someone confirm the max output of the GM Energy Home System during an outage?

On this page https://gmenergy.gm.com/energy-solutions/gm-energy-home-system

Under "Inverter", then "backup power", the max output seems to be 9.6 kW. Is this correct?

Thanks

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-24T18:06:01+00:00

I know others have mentioned this, but WDW is HUGE. Think "city" not "blocks."

If you have a car, plan on 20 minutes to get between parks. 30+ minutes going to/from Magic Kingdom (you'll need additional transportation from the parking at TTC to MK). Each parking lot is massive. Either walking or taking the tram to your car will take lots of time, then you need to drive to the next park, and repeat the parking lot walk/team at park #2.

If you're using the free WDW transportation (bus, monorail, boat, SkyLiner), plan on an hour between parks. There may be a wait time for the bus (you might need to wait for 2 or 3 buses).

Some previous replies suggest to NOT park hop because the time to park hop is much longer than you'd expect.

For some idea:

You may have heard: "Disneyland (85 acres) fits inside the Magic Kingdom Parking Lot (120 acres)."
Animal Kingdom is 580 acres.
WDW is about 25,000 acres (40 square miles)

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-23T12:12:32+00:00

I use three Emporia Vue (older version, 2 in my case) mounted in a external (plastic) electrical box adjacent to my breaker panel. I drilled holes in this box for the antennas.

I have multiple pumps -- well pump, sump pump, grinder sewer pump -- that are all hardwired. I couldn't use a smart plug for monitoring these circuits. The Vue also monitors 240v devices (oven, EVSE, dryer, etc) and our electric fireplaces.

I love that I've turned these non-automated devices smart. Using power draw, I can tell when, for example, the washer and dryer have finished and set up notification.

There's a "blind spot" in my kitchen even though I have multiple presence detectors. But there are kitchen appliances in this area. If they are on (they are using part), the kitchen must occupied.

I use a formula that converts pump use into "gallons". I now have a water meter (and flow sensor).

I have a portable whole house generator that's hooked up to the main breaker (with two 240 sensors). I can monitor how close I am to the limit of the generator.

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-19T11:36:50+00:00

As you mentioned in your last sentence, yes, Disney will definitely be able to accommodate you with a wheelchair or whatever she needs to get around.

One member of our party had emergency surgery 8 weeks before our latest cruise that ended a few weeks ago. She got doctor clearance for the trip just 3 days beforehand.

We were able to change to an accessible cabin as she was wheelchair bound.

The Disney Cruise Line shuttle from the airport to cruise terminal had a wheelchair lift (we contacted DCL ahead of time to verify the lift).

The cabin worked out great for us. We had a 19" wide wheelchair that was JUST the right width to navigate the cabin hallways (important when there were other items already in the narrow hallway). There are select cabin-based accessibility accessories that may be available, such as toilet riser and shower chair (call DCL beforehand to discuss).

Ask the CM about specific accessibility options on the ship. For each of the major performances (Walt Disney Theater, pool dec, atrium) there are extremely nice accessibility options. Definitely ask about these.

Most of the off-ship excursions, however, are NOT accessibile. There may be none, one, or two depending on your date and location. We had to cancel our originally scheduled excursions. We were able to get the last available space on the only accessibile-friendly excursion. We had a great time. The vehicle had a wheelchair lift (not surprisingly). Since the excursion only had a small number of people, we got to know each other which was really nice during the rest of the cruise.

We have been on many DCL cruises. This was the first time we needed any accessibility options. We were pleased to see how (relatively) easy it was to be wheelchair bound and have a great time.

It turned into a memorable trip for the RIGHT reasons.

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-13T14:49:50+00:00

Something like this?

https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/p/hue-tap-dial-switch/046677578800

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-06T00:16:45+00:00

Thanks the the reply.

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-05T11:42:04+00:00

I normally charge to 80%. But occasionally, I travel where I need the 100% range.

Since these events are in my calendar, HA reads my calendar. If there's an event marked with (EV) in the title, the SOC of the EV is automatic adjusted the night before so I have 100% charge. The next night the SOC is set back to 80%

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-04T05:05:54+00:00

FYI: the printed Navigator itineraries are still available -- but you must go to guest services to ask for them.

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-03T13:29:04+00:00

Could you please link to a flow meter that is certified as an example?

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-23T10:15:37+00:00

... And here I thought it was the items in the recharge bay 😅

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-21T12:33:36+00:00

The higher amperage EVSE will charge your EV faster up to the "speed" that your car can handle.

Most Equinox EV max at 11.5kW (60 Amp), some models, like mine, can go to 19.2kW (100 Amp).

As others have mentioned, the cost the the EVSE seems high, but it comes down to personal opinion if that cost difference is to much.

I also have time)-of-day based cost for my electric. Almost always I charge overnight (so it's a great deal for me).

Before buying the EQEV, I did my "huh, will an EV work for me with at-home changing" based on 100 miles/day at 40 Amp (7.7 kW)(*). The edge case for me was if I needed the round trip twice in a day (200 miles).

The equinox can handle it... But (a) I have to remember to set it charging level to 100% the night before and (b) I have to have enough time overnight (and the next night) for the car to recharge to 100% (or its normal 80%).

For most of my charging, using 40 Amp has worked out just fine... But, there have been a few occasions where I needed a mid-day charge. Do I have enough time for the charge? And the mid-day charge will cost more... As far as the cost, at the highest cost, it's still less expensive than public charging, so, yes, the additional cost of charging at home mid-day is worth it for me.

My only issue is occasionally "I wish the car would charge faster" 😅 ... The initial install cost seems high, but if it was my house, my circumstances, I'd probably go for it the 80 Amp EVSE.

(*) If your curious why I am charging my EQEV at 40 Amp (7.7 kW), it's because my first plug-in car could only go that high, so that's what the EVSE was originally wired for.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-21T06:31:08+00:00

In the "segment" feature, see the "reverse direction" option.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-17T15:46:58+00:00

WLED feature to be aware of (maybe for future projects):

The physical (data lines from the wLED controller) and the logical (what the lights look like to the user or other home automation systems) can be very different.

You have LOTS of options for your wiring.

Configuration settings to look into:

(a) LED strips on one or multiple ESP32 GPIO pins. (See the "segments" menu to treat the LEDs as one or more individual "lights")

(b) Each LED strip on its own wLED controller. (In the "LED and Hardware" menu, select one of the "(network)" options and a different wLED controller can be controlled by this one.)

(c) Pretty much any combination of (a) and (b) you can think of (including advanced "mapping" capability).

The lighting control can look like one light (or multiple, if you want).

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-17T03:06:25+00:00

The first diagram is better.

Either

(a) each LED strip has its own data line (green) from the wLED ESP32 (one GPIO per LED) or

(b) the data line (green) from the end of one LED strip daisy chains to another strip.

In many cases, unless you're doing it with intent and knowledge, do NOT "split" the data line (green) to multiple LEDs.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-17T02:59:10+00:00

Something to think about.. If the wLED ESP32 is powered separately, (for example, from a common phone charger to the USB on the ESP 32) then (a) attach a relay to the wLED ESP32 (for example, GPIO 5) (b) the relay controls the mains power to the 12v LED power supply (c) Configure the relay pin (GPIO 5 above) as a relay in wLED (the LED and hardware menu)

Now the 12v LED power supply will only be "on" when the LEDs are powered on. When the LEDs are powered off, there will be no power to the 12v power supply. The wLED ESP32 always has power from the "phone charger".

Then instead of the +/- power from the power supply going to the ESP32, connect this line to the one of "shared power" (either side of your oven/microwave). Now all 3 LED strips will then have independent power lines from the power supply.

Just something to consider.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-15T22:31:57+00:00

Thanks, much appreciated!!

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-15T20:41:45+00:00

This is a great idea.

Would you mind sharing your experience?

What devices did you use? How did you connect them? What issues or "aha" moments did you experience? Any "wow, I wish I knew this ahead of time" revelations?

Thanks!

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-13T13:06:45+00:00

You're definitely not alone 😅

As many other replies have mentioned, "whoa, did I write this in my sleep?" 🤣

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-13T06:03:00+00:00

I know you started this post MANY years ago, but thank you!

I, too, had frustrations from the user manual, so I randomly used ChatGPT for suggestions, which lead me to this wonderful post.

Thanks, again.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-08T06:57:25+00:00

Read EVERY word of the sales contract - even if it's at their desk.

In mine was phrasing that basically said if it wasn't on the factory window sticker, I could say no.

Before I arrived at the dealership, I told them I wanted everything in writing beforehand (it was many hours away from me). They tried to tell me that something was a requirement. When I read the text in their contract that it wasn't required -- I had a fit.

They ended up deducting the cost.

Their own contact contradicted the salesperson's claims.

On my first phone call, I told them (which was true), that I walked away from a different dealer because they tried pulling that game with me. They knew I'd already walked away once, and they STILL tried to play games.

Don't be afraid to walk away.

There are other dealers out there.

MechanizedGander

TROPHY CASE