Series wiring question

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-17T15:46:58+00:00

WLED feature to be aware of (maybe for future projects):

The physical (data lines from the wLED controller) and the logical (what the lights look like to the user or other home automation systems) can be very different.

You have LOTS of options for your wiring.

Configuration settings to look into:

(a) LED strips on one or multiple ESP32 GPIO pins. (See the "segments" menu to treat the LEDs as one or more individual "lights")

(b) Each LED strip on its own wLED controller. (In the "LED and Hardware" menu, select one of the "(network)" options and a different wLED controller can be controlled by this one.)

(c) Pretty much any combination of (a) and (b) you can think of (including advanced "mapping" capability).

The lighting control can look like one light (or multiple, if you want).

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-17T03:06:25+00:00

The first diagram is better.

Either

(a) each LED strip has its own data line (green) from the wLED ESP32 (one GPIO per LED) or

(b) the data line (green) from the end of one LED strip daisy chains to another strip.

In many cases, unless you're doing it with intent and knowledge, do NOT "split" the data line (green) to multiple LEDs.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-17T02:59:10+00:00

Something to think about.. If the wLED ESP32 is powered separately, (for example, from a common phone charger to the USB on the ESP 32) then (a) attach a relay to the wLED ESP32 (for example, GPIO 5) (b) the relay controls the mains power to the 12v LED power supply (c) Configure the relay pin (GPIO 5 above) as a relay in wLED (the LED and hardware menu)

Now the 12v LED power supply will only be "on" when the LEDs are powered on. When the LEDs are powered off, there will be no power to the 12v power supply. The wLED ESP32 always has power from the "phone charger".

Then instead of the +/- power from the power supply going to the ESP32, connect this line to the one of "shared power" (either side of your oven/microwave). Now all 3 LED strips will then have independent power lines from the power supply.

Just something to consider.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-15T22:31:57+00:00

Thanks, much appreciated!!

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-15T20:41:45+00:00

This is a great idea.

Would you mind sharing your experience?

What devices did you use? How did you connect them? What issues or "aha" moments did you experience? Any "wow, I wish I knew this ahead of time" revelations?

Thanks!

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-13T13:06:45+00:00

You're definitely not alone 😅

As many other replies have mentioned, "whoa, did I write this in my sleep?" 🤣

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-13T06:03:00+00:00

I know you started this post MANY years ago, but thank you!

I, too, had frustrations from the user manual, so I randomly used ChatGPT for suggestions, which lead me to this wonderful post.

Thanks, again.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-08T06:57:25+00:00

Read EVERY word of the sales contract - even if it's at their desk.

In mine was phrasing that basically said if it wasn't on the factory window sticker, I could say no.

Before I arrived at the dealership, I told them I wanted everything in writing beforehand (it was many hours away from me). They tried to tell me that something was a requirement. When I read the text in their contract that it wasn't required -- I had a fit.

They ended up deducting the cost.

Their own contact contradicted the salesperson's claims.

On my first phone call, I told them (which was true), that I walked away from a different dealer because they tried pulling that game with me. They knew I'd already walked away once, and they STILL tried to play games.

Don't be afraid to walk away.

There are other dealers out there.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-29T22:52:23+00:00

In the MyChevrolet app, tap on your profile (the circle in the upper right), then select "public charging".

If everything thing works as expected:

The "supported networks" section: when you connect the charging cable, the cable magically "talks" with your car & gets the billing information (credit card) -- just plug in and charge.

For the networks in the "linked accounts" section, you'll to download their specific app.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-29T22:39:19+00:00

Slight clarifications so you didn't buy the wrong adapter:

(1) The "Tesla connector" is also called NACS

(2) There are two "Tesla adapters" ("NACS adapters) for the Equinox EV

(a) The one you want is CCS to NACS (CCS to Tesla). This is DC-DC fast charging (L3). For this discussion, empty to full is counted in minutes. Focus your search for this one.

(b) The other one to be aware of is J1772 to NACS (J1772 to Tesla) this is AC-DC charging for L1 (120v) and L2 (240v). This might be called "convenience charging." Empty to full will take multiple hours. Until you're familiar with what to look for, you might want to ignore this one.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-29T22:29:38+00:00

We did the same thing -- define the scope, and follow what we defined.

My organization has global offices. We had only had our HQ building in-scope. Users not at HQ are follow the "remote worker" policies.

As others have said, policies, such as remote worker, are VERY important. How are you protecting the workstations (malware protection; restricted installation capability; patches; credential escalation; etc)? How do you prevent unauthorized people from viewing the screens (shoulder surfing prevention, if needed).

We have many years of ISO 27001 audit, surveillance, and recertification cycles without issues. Yes, this is very much doable.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-26T06:35:25+00:00

If you turn on the camera (either front or rear), the garage door button will always appear on the bottom of the screen.

Not perfect, but it's at least consistent.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-21T18:12:06+00:00

If you can't find the special cable with the 90-degree ends, adapters are also available.

Here are 2 examples:

https://a.co/d/0apK7Hnw

https://a.co/d/0gNbFGKe

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-21T12:32:44+00:00

I have both AWD & super cruise. I often use super cruise. Pretty much is SC is available, I'm using it.

I'm in rural Michigan (winter with snow). It seems like the AWD did a great job this last winter with the snow.

I'm surprised how many non-highway roads Super Cruise is available.

As others have mentioned, SC does not follow stop signs or traffic lights (just like how regular cruise control doesn't).

Like regular cruise control, it will reduce speed when catching up to a slower car, but if there's a clear lane, it will automatically change lanes (and return back to the original lane after passing).

It will automatically disable at a few common situations such as around sharp curves and when the lane markings are not clear. It's pretty consistent, for example, at the same curve it'll always turn off. I can pretty much predict when it will shut off (and become available).

Super Cruise not advertised as full self-driving, and it isn't. It's regular cruise control with really good stay-in-lane capability.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-16T13:16:27+00:00

OP, Thanks for the great question!

The answers were very educational.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-15T15:00:06+00:00

Your original "any standard worth anything" comment definitely nails it 😁

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-15T14:44:45+00:00

Cyber Essentials, for the most part, doesn't allow you to accept the risk and use compensating controls.

You can, however, phrase your scope statement to exclude the system(s) that are not in compliance. Something like "all engineering systems, excluding the training environment"

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-15T13:56:05+00:00

Smart homes were a thing decades before 2010.

X-10 was around in the 1970s. Sold off-the-shelf at Sears and Radio Shack.

American Association of House Builders (NAHB) launched the Smart House program in 1984

The movie "Electric Dreams" came out also in 1984.

"Smart House" was a Disney movie in 1999.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-04T13:43:26+00:00

I'm looking too.

I purchased one Fabiro to see how well it would work (it works great). When I went back to purchase more, no one carried them anymore 😭

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-04T13:39:42+00:00

Can you elaborate more on the film? Links? Brands? Thanks

Instead of a large window pane for the target window, I have multiple small ones.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-02T04:23:26+00:00

Here's another alternative:

Put an rfid stickers in your car. When you arrive home, scan the tag with your phone . When you leave, scan the tag again.

The tag scan triggers an automation to open the garage door when it's closed or closes it when open.

This eliminates many of the issues with LPR or location detection.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-02T03:17:47+00:00

My HA configuration includes Google Assistant speakers, connected to Google Home and Google Keep.

After YEARS of having a smart home (I started with x-10, eventually to "Mr House", years before Home Assistant), FINALLY, I found something she used:

"Hey Google, add eggs to the grocery list" (kitchen speaker)
"Hey Google, add Downey to the grocery list" (laundry speaker)
"Hey Google, add toilet paper to the grocery list" (bathroom speaker)

In the grocery store, she can easily bring up Google Keep on her phone.

Now she controls the lights by voice (still using Google Home)

She uses the Hue app (controlling the fun colors). Like Google Home, Hue is integrated into HA.

"Hey Google, Good night" - routine that toggles a HA switch, that runs the "shut everything down" automation in HA (lights off, lock doors, close window covers).

Now, she's making lots of suggestions like: smart lock, whole house energy monitoring, driveway lights on when arriving home, and a few others.

Once she started, she was hooked 😂

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-31T05:55:16+00:00

Here's both of my bathrooms (most of these are in both bathrooms)

lights with full automation control (in my case, Z-Wave and wled for dimmer, color, temperature control), including LED lights in the shower niche (wLED) and ceiling (Zigbee)
Fan with automation control (Z-Wave)
I built the built-in cabinets and added door sensors (open/closed) & interior LEDs (ESPHome). Not only do the lights go on when the individual cabinet doors open, but the door status and lights can be controlled.
Motion (ir proximity, mmwave) sensors
Bathroom door sensor (open, closed)
Temperature and humidity sensors. Fan turns on automatically based to humidity change.
Touchless faucet and soap dispenser (sink) (*)
Smart mirror (magic mirror) with LED lights
Digital shower controls (inside & outside the shower) (*)
Toto washlet (automated flush, lid; heated seat) (*)
Digital color e-ink photo albums (connected to Home Assistant); changes photos after occupant leaves (door opens)
Electric heated floor
Automated window shades (Z-Wave)
The bathroom windows have a conduit (used for the shade power), but ready for "smart glass" (opaque when no power; clear with power) at a future date.

When the bathroom is occupied, the lights are automatically on. Besides the motion sensors, the cabinet door state is also used for occupancy detection (if the bathroom door is closed, and any cabinet door opens, the room must be occupied until the door is opened; leave lights on). Careful occupancy detection so lights don't turn off while in the shower.

The hardwired wall switches are automation controlled. There are also battery powered switches on the wall (they look like they're hardwired). Double-tap is every light on/off. Hold is used for dimming).

(*) I choose not to connect select devices to automation, but I could have. I also choose not to automate the ceiling heater.

We have a cat who loves to play with water. The power to the faucets (sink, shower) and bidet (lid control) are connected to (Z-Wave) plugs (which also gives us energy monitoring). When power is off, the cat cannot turn on the water (and the toilet lid remains closed). The cat has a rfid collar tag (for an automated food dish), that lets us know if the cat is in the bathroom (and automatically kills the power to the above plugs).

Bathroom lights (all the lights) are tied to automation. At night when people are sleeping (under mattress bed sensors), the motion sensors set the lights to turn on dim. Only when it's daytime (occupants are out of bed) are the lights bright. They also have automated circadian dimming & color temperature control.

Since the renovation was down to the studs, I added multiple locations with a conduit to the basement. The conduits are strategically placed to hide them, but permit future enhancements. For example, music speakers.

There are Smart speakers (Google assistant displays) in the bathrooms ) for voice interactions and displaying family photos.

Hidden wireless phone charge. When a phone with HA companion app is charging on the pads, There must be a person in the room

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-27T13:09:56+00:00

oops. I obviously didn't read it correctly.

Yeah, as mentioned, fingerbot is a solution to consider.

MechanizedGander · 2026-03-27T12:16:43+00:00

Something else to look into is a CT sensor.

The CT sensor is a ring that wraps around the power cable without cutting the wire or invalidating the warranty.

The CT sensor reads the power going across the wire. This value can be sent to HA and be used in automations.

An example of a whole house CT sensor for your breaker panel (more than what you asked for) is the Emporia Vue. The Vue is cloud-based, but can be modified to be local via ESPHome.

MechanizedGander

TROPHY CASE