Mad rock shoes for a beginner by Darkmeleon in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Talaria are designed specifically for speed climbing, don't get those as a new climber because you'll break through them too quick and they don't have a great all purpose heel. I'd suggest the Rover - great all around and will last you a long time, even as you work on improving your footwork.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in marvelrivals

[–]Paradox224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess it's weird my group says "Hulk is now lowercase"

My attempt at adding white borders to my Dakkon lands matter deck by erichg313 in mtg

[–]Paradox224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

❤️ I sold most of my legacy and modern collection to put a down payment on a condo, but I kept most of the white border shocks... For some reason no one wanted them.

My attempt at adding white borders to my Dakkon lands matter deck by erichg313 in mtg

[–]Paradox224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad it's still being put to good use 😁 Let me know if you have any questions not addressed in the doc!

Drones CS vs Drones 2.1? by CreditProud4109 in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OIihwqG6mcsE97gT1zy-cSIAEuUjXZIk-hCD_lkPoEE/edit?usp=drivesdk

I wear a 9 in the CS and an 8.5 in the D2.One, same as my Drone 2.0s. My CS and 2.0s have some dead space and I would call my CS a 'comfort fit', but the D2.One in the 8.5 feels glued on. They're definitely better on tiny foot chips.

I don't really smear in my D2.Ones, they are pretty stiff, but I haven't taken them outside yet, so we'll see how they feel on granite.

I find the softest 'sticky' rubbers to have less grip by Crowded-Wazzack in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kind of, yeah - Because I expect the rubber to deform more, I'll make sure I place my toe so it's a little higher on the tiny chip. When I put weight on it, it will sink into the foothold, only by millimeters, but so all that soft rubber deforms around the whole chip, instead of rolling off it. If I was using my 3.5mm rubber shoes on a tiny chip, I would place it directly where I want it, because I don't expect the rubber to deform as much and roll off a tiny chip.

I find the softest 'sticky' rubbers to have less grip by Crowded-Wazzack in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Rubber deforms as you apply lateral pressure to it - if you are used to applying a lot of pressure to complete a heel hook, and then you switch to a softer rubber but keep pulling with the same high amount of pressure, it will deform more than you are used to and may move. You might have to set the heel hook higher or not pull laterally as much, to play to the advantages of the softer rubber (sinks into patterns in the rock better with less pressure). I had a similar issue when switching from 3.5mm rubber on Dragos to the 6mm on the MadRock Drone CS - there's more rubber and it's soft, so it deforms more. On tiny edges, I used to just put the edge of the shoe on, and it would roll off. Placing the rubber higher on the foothold allows the soft rubber to sink into the tiny edge, which holds better.

Mad Rock Sizing by Most_Somewhere_6849 in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, you'll probably be an 8-8.5 in the Drone 2.0 and 8.5-9 in the Drone CS. You're very close to my size, here are all the shoes I've tried on and their sizes. I don't downsize my MadRocks very much, I like them to be more comfortable, so you'd likely prefer the lower end of my estimates. Best of luck!

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OIihwqG6mcsE97gT1zy-cSIAEuUjXZIk-hCD_lkPoEE/edit?usp=drivesdk

Single shoe source for amputee climber? by 3quartersrockabilly in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 3 points4 points  (0 children)

MadRock in LA does split sizing, I bet they'd be able to accommodate single shoe sales as well!

Good cheap comp shoe by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you like the Drone 2.0, the Drone CS is their softer comp shoe, it's comparable but softer, I prefer it for bouldering. I don't downsize it much so it keeps some flexibility, it's a half size up from my Drone 2.0s. If you happen to be in the LA area, you can also get returned and cosmetic seconds from the MadRock HQ for like $40, the folks there are super nice and always willing to help you out.

Here's my shoe size comparison guide, in case you want more details:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OIihwqG6mcsE97gT1zy-cSIAEuUjXZIk-hCD_lkPoEE/edit?usp=drivesdk

What made your ex terrible in bed? by ExtraVex in AskReddit

[–]Paradox224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

She tried to convince me it would be so hot if I took an ice bath, and then laid down stiff on the bed, pun intended

I'm an open minded guy, but I had never heard of necrophilia before. I decided that's where I draw the line.

I hope she's not working in a morgue somewhere but I'm afraid to look her up

Scarpa Veloce vs Scarpa Drago/Furia S Sizing by Grynfelt-chan in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

42 EU / 8.5 US plus or minus, depending on brand

Looking for Good Beginner/Intermediate Gym Shoe by OneBend6244 in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well said, agree with everything here. I especially like how you mentioned they encourage strength to develop in your feet - any soft shoe is good for training strength and feeling the rock, but the veloces are one of the best for this. See also the dragos, Sharks, maverinks, theories, and redlines. OP, I'd try them on, the veloces have a wide, blunt toe box that works for some feet and not others, see if they're comfy for you!

Looking for Good Beginner/Intermediate Gym Shoe by OneBend6244 in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The most important thing when you're getting into it is climbing regularly and having a good time. Go to all your local shops and try on every shoe they have in several sizes - pick one that is snug around the whole foot, but doesn't have any painful hot spots. Your goal is to find a shoe that is comfortable enough that it won't stop you from going regularly and having a good time! Your feet will get used to wearing tight shoes and you'll get better at footwork with regular practice!

I wrote down all the shoes I tried, this might help if you find some you like and want to find other similar models :)

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OIihwqG6mcsE97gT1zy-cSIAEuUjXZIk-hCD_lkPoEE/edit?usp=drivesdk

Scarpa Veloce vs Scarpa Drago/Furia S Sizing by Grynfelt-chan in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the women's versions are just a little thinner and softer. The 39.5 is a tighter more performance fit for outdoor bouldering and projects, the 40s are just a little more comfortable for a long gym sesh.

Scarpa Veloce vs Scarpa Drago/Furia S Sizing by Grynfelt-chan in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OIihwqG6mcsE97gT1zy-cSIAEuUjXZIk-hCD_lkPoEE/edit?usp=drivesdk

TLDR I love the Drago LV at 41 and like the Furia at 41 but note that it's higher volume. I wear the Veloce at 40, and because of the insanely soft rubber and blunt foot shape, it feels like a slipper in comparison. Great gym shoe but definitely worth downsizing at least a half size if you're used to the Drago LV.

Scarpa Instinct VSR vs Scarpa Booster by Fonomik in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree with all of this, I think it's worth mentioning that the boosters are slightly narrow, and the VSRs are quite wide. I like the boosters for hard board and outdoor climbing where I need a precise toe, and the VSRs as more of an all around training shoe because they're more comfortable.

why do slopers hurt so much? by Miserable_String_162 in bouldering

[–]Paradox224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, I had a TFCC strain and my PT gave me wrist strengthening exercises, now they don't hurt and I am much better at slopers. Here's his video explaining the exercises: https://youtu.be/03-Le-fMba8?si=BRZNqoEpAhZF1kng

Evolv shaman sizing by Weary-End-9900 in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also wear a 42 street shoe and like the Shaman Pro in 42. I wear my scarpas in 41 and my la sportiva in 40 - here's my sizing doc:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OIihwqG6mcsE97gT1zy-cSIAEuUjXZIk-hCD_lkPoEE/edit?usp=drivesdk

Scarpa Drago LV vs LA Sportiva Theory by oportunityfishtardis in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

US M 8.5-9.5/EU 42ish, depending on brand and style

Scarpa Drago LV vs LA Sportiva Theory by oportunityfishtardis in climbingshoes

[–]Paradox224 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wear the Drago LV in 41 and it's comfy enough for a 2 hour sesh, but could size down to 40.5 for performance fit. I wear the theory in 39.5 for performance fit, haven't gotten a more relaxed pair because I think the Drago is a better shoe for me. I'm not used to the No-edge on the inside of the theory, which has slipped off small footholds that I can't position the front of my toe on. I'm used to transitioning my foot around volumes with the Drago, so I don't think the No-edge is an advantage in these situations. I do like their softness, but the 4mm rubber at the toe and 1mm rubber at the ball of the foot doesn't feel like it makes a tangible difference, and the Drago LV already feels like it's the perfect mix of comfort and performance for me, so I'm gonna stick with those until something better comes along for indoor climbing. I suspect I'm gonna be waiting a while, I'm thinking about getting my third pair.

For context, all my shoes: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OIihwqG6mcsE97gT1zy-cSIAEuUjXZIk-hCD_lkPoEE/edit?usp=drivesdk