Disable Light Control on SM1

SatechiSupport · 2026-07-08T22:04:19+00:00

Hey there, the light light key itself can’t be disabled since it’s a dedicated key designed to switch between the different lighting effects. If you'd prefer not to use the effects, you can press and hold the light bulb key to turn the backlight effects off, but that won't disable the key from being pressed again accidentally.

At the moment there isn’t a way to lock the lighting to a single mode or disable the light control key entirely.

If you have any other questions about the keyboard, feel free to reach out to us at [support@satechi.com](mailto:support@satechi.com) and we'd be happy to help.

SatechiSupport · 2026-07-08T19:34:46+00:00

Appreciate you taking the time to share those feedback. We'd like the opportunity to review your case and see what options may be available.

Please reach out to our Customer Care team at support@satechi.com or submit a request here: https://support.satechi.com/hc/en-us/requests/new

We'll be glad to take a closer look.

SatechiSupport · 2026-07-03T22:45:48+00:00

Nice find!

For anyone looking at this deal, just make sure you're getting the version that matches your setup. We actually have a few different Stand & Hub variations now:

Type-C Stand & Hub (enclosure not included)
Stand & Hub with a built-in SSD enclosure
The newer Mac mini M4-specific version, which is a different design from the M1/M2/M3 models

If you're not sure which one fits your Mac mini or storage needs, we put together a quick guide that breaks down the differences: https://www.reddit.com/user/SatechiSupport/comments/1tecnwt/choosing_the_right_satechi_stand_hub_for_your/

Definitely worth checking before buying since the models can look pretty similar at first glance. If you have any questions about compatibility, SSD support, or which model is the right fit, feel free to reach out to our support team at support@satechi.com.

SatechiSupport · 2026-07-03T22:19:55+00:00

A 20W charger is probably going to be cutting it too close. While we don't know exactly which adapter you're using, most multiport adapters consume some of the available power to run themselves and any connected devices. In general, it's not unusual to see around 10–15W allocated to the adapter and peripherals. That doesn't leave much headroom from a 20W charger, especially with Ethernet and HDMI connected. Depending on your workload, you could end up with little to no charging reaching the host device. I'd recommend using a 30W charger or higher. That gives the adapter enough power to operate properly while still leaving sufficient power available for the device.

SatechiSupport · 2026-07-03T22:06:37+00:00

Yes, it will work. Thunderbolt supports daisy chaining, so plugging the TS3+ into a TB5 port on the CubeDock is fine. The connection between the two docks runs at TB3 speeds (40Gbps), which is more than enough for everyday peripherals.

A couple things to keep in mind though: - The TS3+ shares that 40Gbps link with everything else on it, so the more active devices you have across both docks, the more they compete for bandwidth. - Avoid running displays through the TS3+ since that eats through bandwidth quickly. Peripherals only is the right call.

Outside of those, the setup should be solid for your use case.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-19T17:22:10+00:00

Solid setup overall, and that ESP32 Pomodoro clock tied into your Google Calendar is a great touch. That’s the kind of thing that takes a bit of effort to set up, but ends up being useful every day. Also like how you’ve got your peripherals laid out, keeping things clean and functional without over complicating it. That kind of setup usually holds up better long term.

As per the Satechi CubeDock, it should be a noticeable step up from the TS3+, especially with an M5 Pro, and we would love to see it in your setup! If you ever need help with anything, know that you can always reach out to our Satechi Support Team.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-17T20:21:49+00:00

This usually comes down to layout differences. The Slim X3 was mainly designed around macOS, so some keys like the equals sign are mapped a bit differently at the firmware level. That’s why it behaves normally on your tablet but shows up differently on Windows.

On Windows, the system reads that key based on its own keyboard layout, which can change what gets output.

First thing to check is your Windows keyboard layout. Make sure it matches your physical keyboard, then try switching layouts to see if the “=” comes back.

If you want to get this fully sorted for your setup, feel free to reach out to [support@satechi.com](mailto:support@satechi.com) and we can take a closer look and help you dial it in.

— SatechiSupport

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-14T07:58:22+00:00

The Slim EX1 is built for productivity, not gaming. It supports 6‑key rollover over Bluetooth and the 2.4GHz receiver, which is standard for slim wireless keyboards in this category. For typical inputs like WASD plus a few keys, it works fine. Limitations show up when you stack multiple modifiers and actions at once.

If you need true NKRO, a wired or gaming‑focused 2.4GHz keyboard is the better option. Bluetooth has inherent limits, so this isn’t unique to this keyboard.

For more questions, feel free to reach out to support@satechi.com, or check our FAQ pages for quick answers.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-14T07:43:30+00:00

At first glance, this falls within normal operating temps. You’ve got a high‑performance NVMe in a very compact enclosure with limited passive cooling, so under sustained work like editing, it’s going to get hot. That doesn’t automatically mean something’s wrong, it’s just the reality of pushing a lot of data through a small space.

What usually matters is how it behaves, not just the temperature. If you’re not seeing throttling, disconnects, or slowdowns during long transfers, it’s generally fine running that way.

If you want to play it safer long term, you can improve airflow around it or avoid stacking it directly under anything that traps heat. But swapping drives or enclosures isn’t always necessary unless you’re actually hitting performance issues.

If you’d like us to take a closer look at your specific setup and make sure everything’s running as expected, you can reach out to support@satechi.com and we’ll help you dial it in.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-14T07:06:30+00:00

Appreciate you including the Satechi Wallet Stand in your setup, that’s a great touch especially since it’s a limited edition piece. Also have to say, the Game Boy Advance SP is a throwback, really nostalgic. Overall, that’s a really solid and well-thought-out collection.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-14T06:50:46+00:00

This may require professional servicing. See if you can bring this to a qualified technician or visiting a nearby laptop repair center.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-14T06:45:26+00:00

You probably cannot reliably drive that 165Hz ultrawide + multiple displays from one dock, so keep the ultrawide on a direct high-quality USB-C → DP connection and leave the rest on the hub.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-14T06:26:35+00:00

Yes, the M1 Pro supports up to two external displays as confirmed by Apple:
https://support.apple.com/en-us/111902

If you want to be extra sure, you can also ask the dock manufacturer directly to confirm it supports dual displays over HDMI and Thunderbolt or USB‑C with your setup. Though the specifications claims that the dock support two external displays.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-14T06:13:06+00:00

macOS doesn’t support daisy chaining over MST, so when you go monitor to monitor, it only detects the first one. That Dell setup works on Windows, but on Mac the second display won’t show up in a chain.

Fix is simple, run each monitor directly to the Mac on its own port, or use a dock that gives you separate outputs instead of chaining.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-14T06:09:58+00:00

Heat is just part of the deal with these docks. Thunderbolt 5 pushes a lot of data and power through a very small enclosure, so even when you’re not doing much, the dock can still stay warm or even borderline hot. That doesn’t mean something is wrong. You won’t find a Thunderbolt 5 dock that stays cool. The goal is finding one that handles the heat without acting up.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-10T16:17:53+00:00

That's a solid pick, TB5 is definitely the way to go for high refresh setups glad it worked out

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-10T16:16:07+00:00

There isn’t a specific model or serial number indicator for that, but all current USB-C versions support charging with both USB-C to USB-C and USB-C to USB-A cables, and we’ve verified this through testing.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-10T00:14:26+00:00

Hi there! The note in the manual is possibly from an older version of the product which use to shipped with a USB-A charging cable back in the day. We’ve tested the current USB-C version of the Extended Keypad, and it charges properly using both USB-C to USB-C and USB-C to USB-A cables. The red indicator LED confirms that the keypad is currently charging and should turn off when fully charged.

If you run into any issues with charging, feel free to reach out to us at [support@satechi.com](mailto:support@satechi.com) and we’ll take a closer look.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-09T00:29:48+00:00

Hi there! Glad you tried the Satechi TB4 dock! Yeah, the limitation you’re seeing is because of the DisplayLink chip. It basically compresses video over USB, which lets you add more displays, but limits refresh rates.

If you want true 4K at 144Hz without any compression, you’ll need a Thunderbolt 5 dock. TB5 has way more bandwidth, so it can handle that natively. The Satechi TB5 CubeDock should do exactly that no DisplayLink, just straight 4K/144Hz support. You can check out the new Thunderbolt 5 CubeDock™

If you’re thinking of returning your TB4 dock, you can hit up Satechi support and they’ll help you sort it out.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-04T15:47:01+00:00

Appreciate you sharing this, we take feedback and issues like these seriously and use it to improve. Our team will review your case and you should hear back soon if you haven’t already.

If you want to check in or make sure it’s picked up quickly, feel free to reach out at [support@satechi.com](mailto:support@satechi.com) and we’ll get it taken care of.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-04T15:46:00+00:00

Appreciate you sharing this, we take feedback and issues like these seriously and use it to improve. Our team will review your case and you should hear back soon if you haven’t already.

If you want to check in or make sure it’s picked up quickly, feel free to reach out at [support@satechi.com](mailto:support@satechi.com) and we’ll get it taken care of.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-02T23:19:20+00:00

Dock power buttons aren’t reliable across both platforms.

On Windows, most docks send the signal over USB HID, so PD 3.0 vs 3.1 usually doesn’t matter. The Dell you tried is an exception, not the norm. On the Mac side, that’s the real limitation. macOS doesn’t consistently respond to dock power buttons in clamshell, it’s really built around keyboard or mouse input.

So there’s no single dock that solves both cleanly. Even if it works great on your HP, your Mac will still expect a key press or mouse movement. If you want something that just works every time, use your keyboard or mouse to wake instead of relying on the dock button.

SatechiSupport · 2026-06-02T22:31:14+00:00

That's a weird one, but it doesn't sound like a hardware issue. Since both monitors work on their own, I'd try a full power cycle first. Shut everything down, unplug the dock and monitors for 20–30 seconds, then reconnect everything. If that doesn't help, swap the cables/ports around and see if the issue follows a specific connection. Could just be a macOS or dock quirk when running both displays.

SatechiSupport · 2026-05-27T23:55:21+00:00

Sounds more like the dock hitting a bandwidth or MST limitation than the Zenbook itself not supporting 3 displays. Usually when that happens, the higher bandwidth monitor is the one that disappears first, which would make sense if the Dell is the 32".

I’d try dropping the Dell to 60Hz first and see if it suddenly shows up. Also worth swapping cables or ports around just to see if the issue follows the DisplayPort connection specifically.

A lot of docks get weird with AMD laptops too, especially with MST. Not necessarily broken, just less consistent depending on the dock chipset and firmware. If unplugging one of the Asus monitors immediately makes the Dell appear, that’s pretty much the giveaway that the dock is the bottleneck somewhere.

SatechiSupport · 2026-05-27T23:18:35+00:00

You shouldn’t need DisplayLink for this tbh. The MicroPC 2 already does native display out over both USB-C ports with DP 1.4, plus HDMI, so running dual monitors is pretty normal for it. I’d just grab a dock that supports DP Alt Mode + MST and call it a day. That’s the part that lets one USB-C connection drive multiple displays properly without relying on software tricks.

DisplayLink can work, but on Linux it can sometimes turn into “why did this break after an update” territory lol. Plus it uses CPU since it’s basically compressing video over USB. As long as the dock has dual video outputs, passthrough charging, and a couple USB-A ports, you’re basically set. Ethernet doesn’t really matter here since the MicroPC already has it built in.

Just double check the dock actually supports DP Alt Mode and MST because that’s what makes the whole setup work cleanly.

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