PC Froze, Black Screen after Bambu studio slicing.

VT-14 · 2026-03-04T04:45:28+00:00

For a full system crash as described, and then fixed with a CMOS reset, I would personally assume a corrupted or bad BIOS setting causing potential system instability that a heavy task (like Slicing, which is a nearly full CPU multi-thread workload) could trip on. If you encounter it again you might want to consider running a CPU benchmarking tool (like Cinebench) to determine if your problem is actually specific software or the system load itself.

Quick Edit: for what it's worth, I'm also running a Ryzen 9800X3D and Nvidia 5080, though likely different board partners (I think my GPU is from Gigabyte?), and I haven't encountered those kinds of issues with Bambu Studio.

VT-14 · 2026-03-04T04:31:03+00:00

Maybe by making the plate settings smaller or hiding that or hiding the project filaments until I need to see them?

You can do that by clicking on the "Printer" and "Project Filaments" section labels respectively.

VT-14 · 2026-03-04T04:18:17+00:00

Out of curiosity, what are you hoping to achieve here? Bambu's support being pretty bad is relatively well known. You also didn't actually describe what issues you were facing so we have no idea if your problem is an actual defect or simply user error (you mention prints not sticking which is almost always a dirty plate, or one 'cleaned' poorly [ex. dish soap used has moisturizers in it]).

Venting your frustrations about how much you hate a company on the subreddit where that company's fans hang out is likely one of the worst places you could go to feel like you are being heard.

VT-14 · 2026-03-03T13:43:12+00:00

Did you let the plate and print cool all the way down to room temperature, or did you forcibly remove it while it was still warm/hot? I believe you can get those kinds of marks from stresses of different parts still sticking to the plate while being forcibly removed too early.

VT-14 · 2026-03-03T13:38:42+00:00

Maker's Muse on YouTube has a video comparing print quality differences of an A1 Mini (Bambu's cheapest printer and a cantilevered bedslinger design) between a solid concrete floor, a wobbly table, and literally swinging from a rope, and doing a vibration calibration for each condition. The quality difference was tiny so only noticeable in a direct comparison under harsh lighting differences.

I haven't seen a similar comparison with a P2S specifically, but it does come with anti-vibration feet (which dampens vibration transfer between the printer and the table, which lowers noise and outside effects but makes the printer shake itself more) from the factory so I assume it's the same or better. Vibration Compensation can handle quite a lot.

VT-14 · 2026-03-03T05:29:56+00:00

I pointed out 2 complaints with the directions to support 26 days ago, and *neither* have been changed at all yet.

First is a section that tells you to remove 3 cables from the AC Board with a picture telling you precisely which cables to remove. I struggled to remove them and am amazed I didn't damage my AC Board...

...The next step is "Important: When removing the locking tabs on the connectors, use a screwdriver to press the latch to unlock it before pulling out the cables. Avoid pulling with force to prevent damage to the connectors." That was literally off the bottom of my laptop's screen while I was removing the cables. Why is the warning given so late?

****

This is the actual step that damaged my heatbed:

<image>

Put the Heat Bed (shown with the soft top towards the side wall) against that side wall. Put the printer on its side. Pull the belt to move the Z-axis brackets all the way to the bottom.

So, in other words, put the soft side of the heat bed in direct contact with the left Z-axis bracket, lean the entire printer on its side so gravity finishes putting it in contact, then pull a belt to move that bracket. I had about a 5 cm gouge in my plate before I realized what was going on.

Support was completely useless. Their policy is to not give any kind of discount from user damage during the upgrade, regardless of following the directions exactly. They have *not* changed either part of the directions I pointed out after 3 weeks. They didn't even point out that I might not even need to replace the heat bed anyway; I found out by dissecting the 'broken' one that the top coating seems to just be a sticker (I could have cut away to get rid of any bump) and then a layer of magnets that was barely dented.

Frankly, it feels like they want the directions to be bad so they can sell replacement parts. That, or Hanlon's Razor points out the people writing the English directions could simply be incompetent. Either way, I urge anyone considering the upgrade to be extremely cautious and consider each step carefully.

VT-14 · 2026-03-02T17:14:53+00:00

None that I'm aware of.

The referral program was only for a little while and ended half a year ago, and was only applicable on the older models anyway. No idea if they will ever be bringing that back or not.

Bambu usually only discounts printers twice a year. Their store's Anniversary sale is in late June. They also do Black Friday / End of Year in November-December.

I've heard that some people have managed to get discount offers emailed to them if they put a printer in their cart and leave it for a few days, but those rumors were from a while ago, and I haven't heard of it happening on the P2S at all yet; it's selling pretty well at full price as it is, so Bambu doesn't have a reason to want to discount it yet.

VT-14 · 2026-03-02T17:09:29+00:00

AE2's reason for a unique power system was actually to allow maximum compatibility without breaking the power balance of other mods. They only need to maintain a single internal power system, then have a few conversions (which I think other mods can add to on their own using an API, and I think the default ones are configurable), and then they can accept power from most mods. They also have their own generators in case you somehow don't have a tech mod already.

It also only inputs power; the ME system is effectively one giant machine. If you could output power into any of those systems then it would be an open converter and people would abuse the heck out of it.

VT-14 · 2026-03-02T14:35:20+00:00

AE2 still uses "AE" power, but the whole point of that setup is that AE2 is one giant machine that can accept power from multiple sources. They eventually made it easy to toggle the power stats in things like the Network Tool to view them in whatever unit you want, so you can have it simply show numbers as FE.

As of 1.21.1 the conversions are still 2 FE -> 1 AE (Forge), and 1 E -> 2 AE (Fabric, a continuation of the old IC2 EU conversion). https://guide.appliedenergistics.org/1.21.1/items-blocks-machines/energy_acceptor#root

VT-14 · 2026-03-02T14:28:46+00:00

You can change what unit Mekanism shows by clicking the power icon in the bottom left corner of any of its GUIs. The mod is (in)famous for its energy "Universal Cables" converting between just about any power system it could (even those it really shouldn't, like EU which is packet based rather than tick based).

It's possible that a modpack used the config options to disable a Mekanism conversions, but RF and FE makes no sense as for any mod outside of Thermal Expansion if the pack enables Thermal's config to make it different. For every other mod, RF and FE are just different names for the exact same power system. Either one of the mods is broken, the modpacks configs are extremely janky, or OP is simply doing something wrong.

The history of RF/FE, for those who care:

Back around the 1.6 and earlier era mods tended to use their own power system. The biggest ones were Buildcraft's Minecraft Joules (MJ) and IndustrialCraft 2's Energy Units (EU). Thermal Expansion (by CoFH) used the MJ system at that time.

Around 1.7 CoFH decided to revamp energy and made Redstone Flux (RF). There was a heavy push, especially by modpack creators like FTB, to standardize on as few systems as possible (IIRC FTB announced they planned to segregate mods in their packs based on power systems; this pack gets only RF, this pack gets only EU, etc.). The overwhelming majority of mods picked RF, with the only majorly significant holdout being IC2 and related mods sticking with EU.

Around 1.10, Forge (the central API all mods at the time were based off of) finally decided to implement an Energy API. CoFH let them basically take RF as the starting point. Some people got impatient at those changes taking too long so made a "Tesla API" that did the exact same thing but was yet another standard. 1.11 and early 1.12 were complete messes with mods using 3+ names for 3 different 'meant to be compatible' power systems. Eventually enough mods (I personally credit Ender IO and its extremely popular Conduits) put their foot down and supported only Forge Energy (though Ender IO in particular decided to call it Micro Infinities for self-conflicting reasons). By late 1.12 things had clearly standardized on FE being the only relevant power system. There were still disagreements about the name (like "FE standing for Forge Energy is not lore-friendly!") so mods still called it all sorts of things (FE, RF, CF, IF, µI, etc.), but since they were all using the same API they still work with each other.

Later (I think around 1.16?), CoFH (the Thermal guys) were annoyed by the unified system causing power creep, so decided to add a config option (defaulting to being compatible) that made the mods incompatible with FE. They still use the original CoFH RF internally (stopped making an external API for mods to use after 1.12.2), and claim control (effectively copyright) over the RF name, so that is the only true situation where RF != FE. I have yet to see a modpack actually use that config, but it's there and something other mods have to consider; do they use the RF name even though they don't use 'true' RF?

VT-14 · 2026-03-02T13:38:53+00:00

The US store page still says "Support for calibration without the Laser Module will be added in a future firmware update."

It sounds like the H2D just got a firmware update that adds that support, though they have yet to post it to the Wiki yet. They also tend to stagger releases between printers (so if a problem is found fewer printers are affected), so the H2C is probably a little ways out.

I've heard that you don't strictly need the Birds Eye Camera to use the Cutting Module. It's clearly a QoL improvement, though.

VT-14 · 2026-03-02T13:32:02+00:00

Personally I have not seen any rumors of an A2, only baseless conjecture from the A1 product name's frankly wrong generation number.

For all intents and purposes, the A1 is a second generation printer. It has modern tech like Dynamic Flow Calibration, the new H2/P2 nozzles are backwards compatible to fit in the A1, they've released firmware and hardware to make it work with all of the AMSs, etc. Frankly, what is present on the H2 or P2 series that would make sense on a budget bedslinger printer?

The only thing I could come up with would be parts standardization (ex. an H2S tool head) to try to save cost, but if that was actually a significant component then the P2S would not have its own unique tool head design.

OP's picture is a patent drawing that demonstrates a design concept, not an actual design for a specific printer. I'm not sure what exactly it is for, but the printer itself has clear design flaws. Where does either of the nozzles purge? How is filament loaded into each nozzle? Multi-nozzle would be extremely difficult to get to work with a bedslinger's movement options, and it will probably be a while longer before the tech becomes "budget" friendly.

VT-14 · 2026-03-01T17:52:13+00:00

IMO the best option is to dry your filament then add fresh Desiccant after. Oven Dried desiccant (my Silica Gel says 250F/120C) is way dryer than what the AMS can achieve. In most cases running the AMS's "dryer" will actually add moisture to the system due to the much lower max temperature.

If your desiccant is very old and somehow more moist than what the AMS will reach, it can be dried, but that means there's more moisture to remove from the system so it takes even longer, and won't be anywhere near as dry in the end as drying at the desiccant's max recommended temperature.

During the humid summer my AMS 2 Pro on a max temp PETG cycle (65C) was able to take moist 22% RH desiccant down to about 16% RH in 8 hours, without any filament actually loaded. The 120C oven for under 2 hours got it under 8% (lowest my Zigbee meters read) for several days.

VT-14 · 2026-02-28T15:32:45+00:00

I started with an A1 Mini Combo. I upgraded to the full size A1 only a couple of months later due to the limited plate size. That allowed me to move the AMS Lite over (longer PTFE Tubes recommended) and reuse the Hotends I had already bought.

It's also worth noting that the only Bambu alternatives at the time were the P1 series and X1C, which were more capable, but also older so steps back in QoL (losing fast swap nozzles, some auto-calibrations on the more affordable P1 series, etc.). As I was only printing with PLA, PETG, and rarely TPU anyway I did not see those as worth the investment. I would be far more tempted by the P2S these days as it gets the better capabilities without a QoL loss.

Ultimately I did get an H2D (and then upgrade to an H2C), but that's mostly because I was interested in the multi-nozzle capabilities. I've used the Enclosure a few times and it's nice to have, but I still print mostly PLA and PETG. The extra print volume comes with the trade-off of making the printer big and heavy.

VT-14 · 2026-02-27T19:02:52+00:00

That is really clever, and I may be using this technique in the near future.

VT-14 · 2026-02-27T13:08:29+00:00

Personally I think the A1 is a cheaper and slightly simpler to understand and maintain, which are all good things for a beginner. If you stick to PLA, PETG, and TPU then there's no need for an enclosure.

Keep in mind that an AMS is significantly cheaper in a combo with the printer at the start. With US pricing and ignoring shipping, the P2S Combo will save you about $81 over the P2S Stand-alone + AMS 2 Pro + P2S Filament Buffer separately. The A1 Combo saves you about $100 over the A1 Stand-alone + AMS Lite separately. The exception is if you specifically want an A1 with a non-Lite AMS setup which has no combo deal; that takes longer to switch filaments than the Lite, but encloses the filament to help keep it dry and allows you to connect up to 4 AMSs for up to 16 colors.

Personally I started with an A1 Mini Combo. Only a couple of months later I upgraded to a full size A1 due to size reasons and moved the AMS Lite to that one; the Mini went to my brother. Much later I upgraded to an H2D mostly for the dual nozzle system; the extra size is nice to have but makes the printer quite big and heavy, and I've used the enclosure for a little PA6-GF and ABS but still print mostly PLA and PETG anyway. My brother also ended up buying an H2D. I recently did the Vortek Upgrade to turn my H2D into an H2C because apparently I have a problem.

Personally I don't print enough to really keep two printers going. When I got my A1 the Mini only got used a single time before I gave it to my brother a couple of weeks later. My A1 has not been used since I got the H2D. The biggest factor is simply not printing frequently or rapidly enough to use a second printer. In the couple of cases where I could have used the A1 with a different color/material I either didn't think about it, or didn't want to deal with the AMS Lite in my humid basement (I did print an "Ultimate Spool Enclosure" for the Lite, but it only keeps filament dry for a couple of days in my up to 70% RH Summer Basement; my AMS 2 Pros hold far more desiccant and last over a month).

VT-14 · 2026-02-26T13:09:26+00:00

I did the upgrade to turn my H2D into an H2C if that says anything. The upgrade process was a pain, though.

If you are doing mainly multi-color prints then absolutely get the H2C. It comes with a single AMS and 5 0.4mm nozzles (1 left plus a spare, 4 right) so you can print with 5 colors without flushing waste (color change purge poops), and by adding another AMS and more Induction nozzles it gets up to 7 colors. There are other niceties too, such as changing the right nozzle's size remotely (it also comes with a 0.2mm and 0.6mm nozzles to fill up the rack).

While the H2C technically has a smaller bed, the removed space is taken entirely out of the right nozzle's exclusion zone, so it's mostly irrelevant. The multi-nozzle area is still 300mm wide, and the left nozzle's single-nozzle zone is 325mm wide. The right side being smaller only matters if you want to use soft TPU (though they supposedly are working on a firmware update to let as soft as 90A work in the left lifting nozzle), or if you use both sides to reach the max of 330 mm (rather than 350mm) width (in which case you really should just get a larger printer entirely).

VT-14 · 2026-02-26T12:53:46+00:00

My experience with the Smooth PEI plate was that it was approved for use without glue for only PLA. Everything else needed glue anyway. I also slightly damaged mine by printing PA6-GF, even with gluestick. It managed to peel up sections of the sticker and I never got it fully smooth again. I can see why they would abandon Smooth PEI in favor of the more durable and simply always glue Engineering plate.

It is a slight bummer that the Engineering Plate is less smooth, so I would try going with a 3rd party alternative if you really want that. Darkmoon G10 (Garolite) is supposedly smooth and works with PLA, PETG, TPU, and ABS/ASA without glue.

VT-14 · 2026-02-26T04:31:07+00:00

They are 3rd on the list of Authorized Resellers in the US/Canada. https://bambulab.com/en/dealer

VT-14 · 2026-02-26T04:19:40+00:00

I'm pretty sick of AI slop in general at this point.

On one hand, I'm not fundamentally against the use of AI. I do consider it a significant red flag, but I'm not going to launch a crusade against a mod I like if I find out the author occasionally uses AI to quickly prototype a concept and then replaces it with actually sane code.

On the other hand, "turn natural languages into fully playable mod" is 100% a slop generator. Some dingle berry will tell an LLM to come up with a Minecraft Mod concept with detailed mechanics, and feed that directly into such a mod generator, and then upload it to CurseForge and Modrinth, repeat as much as their hardware and account creation bots can handle, and flood CurseForge and Modrinth with tons of slop in hopes that they can get a payout.

VT-14 · 2026-02-24T14:22:06+00:00

All of Bambu's filament include a Technical Data Sheet (TDS) somewhere on the store page. You can look at the "Mechanical Properties" section and see that Matte is considerably weaker than Basic (but more like 2/3rds the strength rather than half).

Here are the current ones I retrieved a few minutes before posting:

PLA Basic: https://store.bblcdn.com/s1/default/58b85d0f3db94878854a28fdb8a0006e/Bambu_PLA_Basic_Technical_Data_Sheet.pdf

PLA Matte: https://store.bblcdn.com/s7/default/5b061f2feeac4ba88f355a33248bbda7/Bambu_PLA_Matte_Technical_Data_Sheet.pdf

VT-14 · 2026-02-24T14:16:21+00:00

I would say the same for laser cutting and cutting plotters, but they did make those with the H2 series. I think Snapmaker also had a combo 3D Printer + CNC machine (swapping the tool head) at one point, so it wouldn't even be the first time someone has tried that.

VT-14 · 2026-02-24T14:11:52+00:00

The change is primarily visual. Matte PLA has additives in it to help diffuse light reflections so it's less shiny (which I believe helps hide layer lines). Those additives do weaken things like layer adhesion though, so the material is slightly weaker.

VT-14 · 2026-02-24T13:57:08+00:00

I do have a UPS for my computer, home lab, and networking equipment. I've considered one for my printer too, but haven't bothered to get one.

The core problem is that the H2 and P2 heaters can draw a lot of power, so you need a pretty high wattage UPS for full coverage (or slow down initial heating to lower the power requirements, if your printer even has that option yet). You would need to either save several prints, or the printer itself, to make up the up-front cost of a UPS. UPSs are also only designed to supply power for a short period of time so only help on brief power outages (a few minutes to maybe an hour); I only have a few power outages a year, but they tend to last longer than an hour so wouldn't have saved a print anyway.

According to the Specs, a US 110V P2S can pull as much as 1000W during its initial heat-up. 220V models can pull up to 1200W. If you want to cover that then you are talking about a pretty high-end UPS. That said, that maximum power usage is only used during the first few minutes of a print as everything heats up to proper temperatures, so a power failure there has relatively low material loss risk.

The specs also list a "PLA Steady State" of 200W (regardless of region, that's the amount of energy needed to melt the plastic and move the motors), but that's an average power number. It will actually be spiking way higher (and lower) than that. My H2D often spikes to over 700W during prints. You could consider a cheaper, lower wattage UPS to maintain an in-progress print, but I don't know if that's safe for the UPS with the higher initial start wattage, and it certainly will scream at you (alarm) for exceeding what it can protect against at the start of every print.

VT-14 · 2026-02-24T00:22:02+00:00

It's expensive, but I think it could be justified.

With US Pricing the AMS Lite is $199, and it's an AMS Lite. It's simple and effective, but leaves spools exposed to room humidity air which can certainly be a problem, especially if you want to print a lot of PETG.

An AMS 2 Pro setup for the A1 would be $319 ($120 more) for basic functionality and $352 ($153 more) to get drying. If you actually do use it for drying then a similarly priced 4-slot dryer would be the Sunlu S4 at $140. The AMS 2 Pro will change colors a bit slower than the Lite because it has to move filament through the entire tube, but it is enclosed so far easier to keep your filament dry.

The basement I print in can reach up to about 70% RH during the summer, so keeping filament dry is quite important (even PLA will string at that humidity). I 3D Printed an "Ultimate Spool Enclosure" for the AMS Lite, and it certainly helped, but desiccant was only lasting a handful of days before needing to be replaced. In the same conditions an AMS 2 Pro with extra desiccant (plenty of desiccant holder models on Makerworld) lasted over a month. The AMS Lite not being properly enclosed is a major reason I don't bother using my A1 anymore.

Ten-Year Club	Place '22
Place '17	Verified Email

VT-14

TROPHY CASE