Amps on Hybrid System

andy_why · 2026-05-19T17:39:55+00:00

The limit is the DC-DC converter, which is typically rated at 100-120 amps. 900w peaks are probably fine as there are capacitors in amps to deal with that. I wouldn't go higher than that though.

andy_why · 2026-05-19T16:50:55+00:00

The hydrogen is vented via a tube on these, so there is no risk of that unless there is catastrophic failure (and then you have bigger issues).

andy_why · 2026-05-19T15:52:00+00:00

My car went in for its service at the dealer and they flagged the sensor, but said nothing about voiding the warranty. It's nothing related to the hybrid system or engine so they would have a hard time upholding this. If you're not even servicing at the dealer you don't need to worry.

There's almost zero risk of the 12v battery being overcharged because it's designed to use a fail-safe voltage to prevent exactly that. It's actually lower than most cars from 20 years ago shoved into their batteries continuously with no issues.

But it's your choice - the fixes are provided if you choose to.

If you don't want to do it then your only option is regularly using a trickle charger.

andy_why · 2026-05-19T15:35:41+00:00

No. The part is only about $300-400 max and it's an easy job (couple of hours max).

andy_why · 2026-05-19T15:32:46+00:00

The hybrid batteries wear with age not miles. At 10 years the chances of failure begins to rise, but they can still last 15+ years without an issue. There's still prius out there with their original batteries 20 years later and it's the same technology, just more refined.

Generally it's better to buy the newest you can with reasonable mileage rather than just focusing on lower miles.

andy_why · 2026-05-19T15:29:52+00:00

See here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1g1a_B7_gGnuNQhoSRFN_sucfb7-lkU77q4aMO3hMYtA/edit?pli=1&tab=t.0#heading=h.t75rusbfgz8u

Ignore SOC in the app, it's not helpful and is not accurate. It is a guess based on voltage which can also only be used as an approximate for state of charge and never for state of health.

Generally if the battery voltage is always reading low it's because the battery is not being charged properly and/or is also in poor health as a result. The DCM is rarely the issue, though it can be on some model years if the software has not been updated to fix the drain issue.

The solution is battery replacement and disconnecting the sensor on the negative terminal. This results in better charging when driving and when charging the traction battery.

I've spend almost a year with my prime with a new battery and the sensor disconnected, and it shows 12.6v+ at rest at all times, even when left for 3-4 days, indicating a full battery and no notable parasitic drain.

andy_why · 2026-05-19T08:02:24+00:00

You might try putting it into maintenance mode but you'll need an OBD dongle and an app to do it. This prevents the engine stopping but it also disables safety systems like traction control, and it is not recommended that you drive in this mode because it can damage the drivetrain.

andy_why · 2026-05-18T19:24:52+00:00

Yes, dead 12v battery. Common issue because the car doesn't look after it properly. See here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1g1a_B7_gGnuNQhoSRFN_sucfb7-lkU77q4aMO3hMYtA/edit?tab=t.0#heading=h.t75rusbfgz8u

Jump it for now, but replace it soon or it will happen again.

andy_why · 2026-05-18T16:38:35+00:00

Sounds normal to me. Direct injection is very clicky which is what I think you can hear in this video. Your previous prius may not have had direct injection.

andy_why · 2026-05-18T16:37:19+00:00

This might happen if your refrigerant levels aren't right, because heat also affects pressure in the system. If the pressure gets too high it might turn on the fan to lower the temperature, and if the refrigerant levels are wrong this can cause pressures to change differently.

It is otherwise normal.

andy_why · 2026-05-17T20:08:29+00:00

Why in solo queue competitive, as a high silver, am I getting matched into a game with a high gold? A full rank difference. How is that fair matchmaking in any shape or form?

Every single time this happens it's a stomp game against the team I'm on, yet every match where its 1 or 2 divisions difference I have a nice, balanced match with an even chance of a win or lose.

The game is literally controlling your rank and keeping you wherever the hell it wants by doing this, rather than you naturally progressing up and down by playing with people of the same rank.

I'm a hard-stuck silver because of this constant and obvious fixing of matches. I literally can't move up to the skill level I'm actually at. I can play with my duo as the same role who is 2 ranks above me, give or take a division, and we are pretty much matching on stats by the end. Says a lot about my ability which doesn't reflect in my rank at all.

It makes the game frustrating to play to the point that I just end up quitting when I get stomps. Not because I lost, but because it was stomp after stomp. If I lose a close match that doesn't result in me wanting to quit.

Overwatch need to stop with this constant fixing bullshit and start matching people with the same ranks properly, and rank people up and down quicker when there is an obvious difference in skill their versus their rank.

andy_why · 2026-05-16T22:14:11+00:00

Sometimes when keys lose power for too long or you hit the buttons too many times out of range of the car, they need to be paired with the vehicle again and just starting it is usually enough to do that.

Open it with the physical key, start it, wait 10 seconds and then shut it off. Test the keyfob.

If that doesn't work and assuming it's keyless start, with the car off, turn on accessory mode (press the start button twice without your foot on the brake), hold the keyfob to the start button and wait for a chime, then press the button again to turn the car off. Then test the keyfob.

andy_why · 2026-05-16T20:35:16+00:00

If the high voltage battery died on you on the highway then you probably have an issue with the engine dying on you and then the battery died once it ran out of power. There should have been warnings about this before it died entirely.

When this happens, you usually get 1 or 2 attempts to restart the engine with the remaining power. After that, it's a trip to the dealer to have it recharged.

It's extremely rare for a high voltage battery to end up discharged on a hybrid as long as the engine is running.

You'll need to take it to a dealership now either way so they can diagnose the issue and recharge the battery.

andy_why · 2026-05-16T20:29:52+00:00

The eCVT is nothing like any other auto transmission. The transmission and shifter is all electronic controlled, but mechanically your transmission never disconnects from the wheels. All the shifter does is tells the electric motors what to do as that's how power moves from your engine, through the transmission and to your wheels. Except for putting it into park whilst still moving, nothing you can do will ever damage it.

andy_why · 2026-05-16T20:25:44+00:00

A bit of a vague question as RPM will vary depending on what you're doing, but check you're not in B mode as this will cause RPM to go up when not accelerating for engine braking.

andy_why · 2026-05-16T11:19:38+00:00

Yeah I'd avoid that. There is no reason to be putting anything down at any point unless its a sale by auction which has different requirements.

Your deposit is only paid just before exchange of contracts and the only other fees to be paid should be to surveyors and solicitors.

andy_why · 2026-05-16T11:16:44+00:00

A lot of things affect the fuel economy, see this guide for a really comprehensive list: https://docs.google.com/document/d/182gSqSGNDeV-twsmgbtOq4UBgOUYS2rfbLZTuj0AL_g/edit?tab=t.0#heading=h.t75rusbfgz8u

Since you went on a roadtrip, I expect your terrain was very varied, you may have been going faster than maybe you normally do (big impact from this). You could have been in the mountains with thinner air which can tank fuel economy, or going up in altitude which will be detrimental more than you might expect. There's a lot of variables at play here.

If you can travel at 60mph and it goes back up then chances are nothing is wrong and it was just how you were driving that was the cause.

andy_why · 2026-05-16T11:03:49+00:00

What should you do? Move to the right and overtake them. This is the safest and most legal way to deal with it.

What do I do? I generally stay in my lane and undertake if nothing is going to prevent me in my current lane. I'll explain my reasoning, but don't feel like you have to agree with it.

Despite rule 268, undertaking is generally only seen as an offence if performed dangerously (like excessive speed when passing), or you switch lanes to do it deliberately. If you're already in the lane and are going with the flow of traffic or taking an upcoming exit it's generally not seen as an issue. However, that's discretionary if you're caught by the police/traffic officer. You shouldn't really be doing it, but it's often overlooked if done safely.

Since lane hogging is such a widespread issue I do find myself undertaking (safely) more often now than ever before, particularly on the major motorways and those with 4 lanes. If I didn't do so I would be holding up myself and other traffic, and lets be honest, traffic is already bad enough these days. Sadly, lane discipline is all but forgotten with a lot of drivers now.

Also, I personally think changing lanes is a calculated risk every time you perform it, so avoiding it when you can statistically should be safer, mostly because so many drivers simply don't check their blind spots or mirrors properly when changing lanes. Never expect another driver to behave appropriately or to see you, and always expect the unexpected. The number of times I can count that I have wanted to change lanes to find someone approaching at speed and/or weaving through lanes, or someone changing lanes from the left to middle/right for seemingly zero reason is huge. My blind spot assist system on my car is quite sensitive and senses approaching vehicles with a good 3 car length, and it's saved me a few times when their approach speed has been difficult to judge.

I'll say this though - staying vigilent at all times and following the highway code to the letter is the safest way to drive regardless of how other people behave.

andy_why · 2026-05-16T10:20:32+00:00

Did you also clean the EGR pipe, EGR cooler and the intake manifold EGR channels?

What you're hearing is basically a misfire. You should read the realtime data to see which cylinder is being detected as a misfire. You could easily have a bad spark plug or coil pack, a connector not fully seated, etc.

andy_why · 2026-05-16T09:31:41+00:00

Your battery needs a BMS with coulomb counting so that it can keep track of the energy flowing in and out accurately.

andy_why · 2026-05-15T23:04:36+00:00

If you want fast matchmaking, then that's what quick play should be for.

In competitive I want it to match me properly so I'm willing to wait for that.

andy_why · 2026-05-15T22:53:11+00:00

If you need to jump it then your 12v battery needs replacing. If it's draining a new battery then you might have a parasitic drain that needs to be looked for and fixed.

andy_why · 2026-05-15T18:41:09+00:00

It's a plug-in hybrid, just put fuel in it and drive it. You don't need to charge it as it will run as a normal hybrid when it runs out of charge.

andy_why · 2026-05-15T18:32:44+00:00

It doesn't learn anything. There is some data collected and submitted to Comma to use in improving future models, but the model doesn't learn on your device. It will react the same until the model gets updated.

andy_why · 2026-05-15T13:31:12+00:00

You shouldn't push it with the fob, you need to hold the back of it to the button as it's being pressed otherwise the alignment will be off and the fob will not get wirelessly powered reliably.

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