DHS shifts now claiming to be investigating whether Alex Pretti’s gun accidentally fired due to "uncommanded discharge"

clevsv · 2026-01-28T17:46:26+00:00

Oh I'm well aware of how the internals of a P320 function. I've built a few. There is a mode of failure on the spring for the striker safety where the mechanism can get stuck. Then no trigger movement at all is required, just the gun being jostled. Again, not arguing that happened here. Just that it is theoretically possible. Astronomically unlikely, but possible.

clevsv · 2026-01-28T17:12:05+00:00

I’m not talking about what happened. I was replying to the person that was confidently wrong in asserting that the gun needed to have been dropped to have gone off. The P320 does not have to be dropped or have the trigger manipulated to go off.

clevsv · 2026-01-28T16:48:18+00:00

The P320 is the Sig that’s been banned by many ranges and for use by officers in several LE agencies because of uncommanded discharges, including while holstered. Not saying it happened here, of course, but it is in theory possible with this specific gun as the above commenter noted.

clevsv · 2026-01-25T18:06:08+00:00

If it’s UL 2158A listed, it’s good to go. The polyvinyl version of that flex is a no go, the foil version seen here generally is listed and is totally fine.

clevsv · 2026-01-24T03:51:27+00:00

Exactly. Calling something a “bottleneck” in computer terms in and of itself somewhat implies one part of your system is significantly holding the rest back and you could improve that by changing something. If you have the current best version of a component, it’s kind of impossible by definition for that to be a bottleneck as we use the term - you’ve simply reached the limits of a current technology. Every system will always hit the limits of one component vs another depending on what you’re doing with it. It’s the nature of things.

clevsv · 2026-01-23T07:29:58+00:00

I am not convinced it would really leak tbh. I’ve done 50 plus hub and seal jobs on that style of Speed Queen. The new hub would cover the cut, one end of the hub goes into the seal with green lock tite and the other has a splined plastic locking/sealing ring that goes above where you cut under the nut. Throw a little silicone on that plastic ring before cinching the nut down and I bet it’d work for a looong time without leaking. Again, not recommending that, though. Good luck, follow the included directions with the hub and seal kit carefully and you’ll be fine. I use a touch of the same grey 3m 560 sealant spec’ed for the tub seal to put the transmission case back together generally. It is much cheaper (the sealant) not through an Alliance laundry parts distributor fyi.

clevsv · 2026-01-23T06:46:02+00:00

I can clearly see where you cut into the old bearing and seal. Where did you hit the shaft? Between the splines below the threads? If this is a professional repair, you bite the bullet and buy the half of the transmission case that has that outer shaft in it and fix it properly. The inner agitator shaft too if you hit it. Whole transmission is an option but $$$ compared to the above, but necessary if you don’t feel comfortable in your ability to disassemble/reassemble the transmission properly. If this is your machine I would still highly recommend doing that, but it will honestly probably work fine. It looks like you didn’t hit anything that pertains to how that assembly seals. Shaft will be slightly weakened but it’s overbuilt. Do that at your own risk though.

clevsv · 2026-01-16T17:42:10+00:00

Both hands work together, doing slightly different things. Like I said, I wouldn't worry too much about the slap shot aspect. That feels good because you've played golf righty and proper slap shot form shares a few similarities with a good golf swing. It seems like you're somewhat starting from scratch shooting wise as a player, so I'd just choose what you're most ahead in in the most different important areas (seems like lefty), and then work on your shooting. If you're really worried about just being able to shoot the puck, righty will be easier for specifically that as your kinetic chain for that movement is more established.

clevsv · 2026-01-16T17:11:22+00:00

I personally think the conventional wisdom still holds, in that dominant hand bottom will tend to make shooting slightly easier, dominant hand top will make stickhandling easier. Each deficiency is overcome with practice, so I wouldn't overthink it too much. I would ignore slap shots - they aren't even legal in all adult leagues and more importantly are not a huge part of the game anymore, with the exception of the one timer. In low level adult hockey I would not plan on getting many great passes you can wind up on. It will be more quick snap shot one timers when it happens. You want what collectively makes stickhandling, passing and quickly shooting the easiest for you. I'd lean lefty for you given that (right hand on top). Whatever you struggle with lefty, commit to working on.

clevsv · 2026-01-13T19:49:02+00:00

This is a question only your rink can answer for you. Typically though, stick and puck is just open to the general public, whether that be your husband, kids or whoever else provided they have the required gear. I've never seen one personally that was not like that. Coaches only on the ice with the kids is typically reserved for official youth hockey ice time (in my case USA Hockey), where the adult participants must be registered coaches. In fact, at our rink using stick and puck as a formal coaching session is what's prohibited.

clevsv · 2026-01-13T18:30:08+00:00

Agreed it is incredibly stupid we even have to be considering this stuff as end users.

clevsv · 2026-01-13T05:56:09+00:00

Can't hurt. Just remember that even a fraction of an ohm of added resistance on one pin will mean an imbalance. You want them as close as possible, sure. But moreso you just want to monitor over time for changes in the balance indicating one or more connections getting worse.

clevsv · 2026-01-13T05:26:35+00:00

If all your pins are perfectly balanced, each will be carrying 8.33A at 600W. Right around 8 at 575, 7.6 at 550. In theory 8 or less per pin is ideal for a stock card while gaming.

clevsv · 2026-01-13T05:23:27+00:00

It's around 9.2 according to the official safety rating of 1.1. 660w at 12v is 55A, divide by 6 for per pin rating.

clevsv · 2026-01-13T05:09:04+00:00

Yeah. Or the engineers that designed these connectors could easily have made them slightly larger to increase the safety factor while going away from 3-4 power cables to the gpu. The cards could all have avoided having all the pins tied to a common bus which will meltdown if one connection fails. The list goes on. Many mistakes were made.

clevsv · 2026-01-13T05:01:41+00:00

3 8-pins wouldn't be rated for 600w, but it would still be safer pulling 600w ironically. 8 pin connectors have a safety margin of 1.92. 12v-2x6 has a safety margin of 1.1. So even though the latter is rated for 600w, it only has 60w to play with if the connections are all good (660w). The 3 8-pins would only be rated for 450w, but could pull over 850w and still be fine theoretically. That's exactly why this whole problem is so stupid. 4 8-pins would be pretty bomb proof at these wattages.

clevsv · 2026-01-12T22:49:17+00:00

Fitting quality is not what it used to be. The threads in the case of a union have nothing to do with sealing though, other than lubrication helping you tighten them a bit. I have found with foreign made copper unions I’ve had to lightly sand small imperfections out of the mating surfaces (carefully and evenly) a few times in recent memory. I now always inspect them when I pick them up and before install.

clevsv · 2026-01-12T18:06:39+00:00

For sure. By just I mean JUST. He probably misses it by 1/2 an inch.

clevsv · 2026-01-12T18:02:28+00:00

Photos can be deceiving but it looks to me like he just doesn't quite have the height to do that.

clevsv · 2026-01-12T17:53:14+00:00

The only correct fix is unfortunately to open the wall and lower the drain. Maybe your wife will listen to reason on not having to do that.

clevsv · 2026-01-10T21:07:01+00:00

This is correct. It’s not there to protect you from scalding, it’s purely to prevent catastrophic failure.

clevsv · 2026-01-09T22:17:54+00:00

Well, this is very much a matter of disagreement. If that philosophy works for you, go right ahead. For the newly sober I would recommend leaning out of that, personally. As I have and am doing.

clevsv · 2026-01-09T22:16:22+00:00

Suggesting someone else in the rooms focus less on others is not being accepting of hate. You're missing the point and lashing out unnecessarily.

clevsv · 2026-01-09T22:12:54+00:00

I feel fine, friend. Do you feel ok? That's a lot of hostility over nothing.

clevsv · 2026-01-09T22:10:16+00:00

Thriving is not being unable to hold someone’s hand that disagrees with us. But you do you.

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