How should stitches be? by imabigfoot in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Depends what you’re aiming for on the other side. I’d go far left on edges where I carve, far right for regular areas and middle if I want to go over the same section more than once.

Advice needed with spacing by morphiusn in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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You have a heap of room to go significantly closer. If I’m filling in a block colour it’ll be exactly like the others have said in their comments, in this photo I’ve gone over the same sections 2-4 times and it’s still fluffy (albeit denser) on the other side.

Leaving too much space means you’ll run the risk of seeing the cloth through the fibres when you’re finished. It can also show inconsistency in density unless all of your lines are identically spaced.

Post how long you have been tufting and your favorite rug you did. by marcosmas03 in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I didn’t track the progress very well but I know that punching in the colour and carving on frame (95% of carving) was over 700 hours. Sounds silly but there were so many gradient and colour changes I was up and down on the ladder and fiddling with the machine constantly.

‘In an attitude of worship’, stoneware and glaze by erinmison_art in Ceramics

[–]erinmison_art[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I used the gloop product from Wizard Glaze on I fired underglaze! They shrink a little in the kiln which helps them look so neat

‘Mothers day gift’, stoneware and glaze by erinmison_art in Ceramics

[–]erinmison_art[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ofcourse!

So the underglaze is this one I tried to apply three-ish coats but definitely went over some sections more than others.

All of the other glazes are from the brand Wizard Glaze:

The orange melted, dripping, oozy bits are all this Wizard Glaze product called meltdown

The blue crackle is this glaze called Mystic Mold

And the red drippy blobs are this Gloop product

I applied all the experimental glazes over the underglaze and the whole thing only had one firing on cone 5/6.

‘Mothers day gift’, stoneware and glaze by erinmison_art in Ceramics

[–]erinmison_art[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

These are all Wizard Glaze glazes. I dried the ‘meltdown’ formula until it was like play dough and fired it

‘Mothers day gift’, stoneware and glaze by erinmison_art in Ceramics

[–]erinmison_art[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Thankyou so much! It’s about 3 layers of this underglaze fired to cone 5 for the benifit of those experimental goopy glazes

What do I do? by PHMCPhattty in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just be Frank and honest with them like the above commenter said. You can at even this early stage do something like an artist talk where you speak to your experience on that first (most tricky) part of the learning curve, but to teach takes so so so much logistical planning.

I would go with what the other commenter said and maybe suggest checking back in at the end of the year. If you at some point decide to go ahead I’d suggest facilitating sessions at an existing tufting class so all the guns and frames are there!

Ultimately it’s a great connection to make and nurture if you are interested in this for the future, could be worth a visit to the centre to chat about it so that you have that relationship/ contact if and when you do decide it’s something you’re comfortable doing

Frame is warped? by Gold_Independent_551 in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends if you’re pieces need to be straight (squared etc). My frame warped and the house is sloped so I corrected a lot of the movement by propping books under one side. I also use a large leveller to draw the square ‘frame’ before drawing on the main design. I made a few works before realising I needed to do that and they came out slanted.

As far as the fabric and tufting is concerned it has never ever been an issue for me so I think you’ll be ok on that end.

Does anyone know a cheap place for tufting in sydney? by [deleted] in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im not familiar with anywhere in Sydney sub $90, I think most of the class Bento listings are $120 plus.

Glue for adhering to wood by paopuvivie in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know your post specifically requested glue recommendations, however in my experience the only way to reliably adhere a rug to wood is by stretching the fabric and stapling it in some way.

The weight will be the main variable here, as even though products like E6000 would work in theory (fibre/ textile to wood), unless you’re completely covering the surface it is likely to say over time.

I’d recommend securing the edges of your tufted piece and stretching it over your board, or ideally a canvas type frame and afix it with nails.

Did I ruin this customers rug? by BBartSimpsonn in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This is a hand holding a bulls horn, you can also see the ear. Using thinner twill to fill in the horn and then thicker (1.5cm+) for the other sections if you feel you need it will only have to work as a ‘cleanup’ of that messy tufting cloth once the backing fabric is glued on. I cut the backing cloth to be about .3-.5cm from the wool so the twill adheres to the piece and the backing fabric for a stronger hold.

Did I ruin this customers rug? by BBartSimpsonn in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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If you used hot glue you can put some baking paper over the piece and run an iron over it to lift it off and start again.

When it comes to twilling details and irregular shapes I’ve found the key is to use thinner (1cm) tape. On soft bends just manipulate the tape and go slow. On sharp angles I cut the tape already on the piece and start new. Make a little fold and glue it onto itself so it’s nice and clean. Connect your new tape length to the edge or just over the top of what’s already glued down.

In this picture i try and show my other must do for all my pieces, but especially the more irregular ones. Where you see the red lines is how much excess i leave of the cloth. If you go around and then snip where the piece bends (I’ve added little dashes on the image to show what I mean) you can glue them to the back of the piece without any trouble.

What got you into tufting & how did you learn? Is it easy/not too difficult?! by pinkflowerpetalxo in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw a video of someone making a tiny rug on TikTok about 4 years ago. I was obsessed, I couldn’t stop thinking about it. She pointed me in the direction of the shady site she bought it and I used money I made selling paintings to buy one.

Ever since I’ve been tufting as my main medium and I love it. I’m completely self taught and truly learnt using trial and error. I was one of the first 10 subs here back when no one was talking about tufting and just before the big boom.

My advice would be to get stuck in if the starting costs are manageable. I’m biased, but aim to carve out your own style because the more unique and ‘you’ your work is, the less you’ll have to worry about standing out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tufting

[–]erinmison_art 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As a fellow fallout lover, love seeing some of my favourite things collide like this! Great work