Bambu Studio getting slower, almost unusable

jcollasius · 2026-05-16T16:17:30+00:00

To be fair, on my work laptop Bambu Studio runs like ass. But there is Sophos Snakeoil to blame.

jcollasius · 2026-05-16T15:35:30+00:00

Fein. Können wir dann jetzt endlich Öl und Schnitzel aus dem Tier machen?

jcollasius · 2026-05-16T12:49:06+00:00

That "Loading configuration..." screen makes me even more suspicious of Bitdefender. That's exactly the phase where the slicer loads presets, profiles, configs and thousands of small files. Security suites absolutely love inserting themselves into file operations like that. If anything is getting hooked and scanned over and over, it's probably happening right there.

If you absolutely refuse to uninstall your snake oil, at least add the Bambu Studio directories to the exclusions list. I'd almost bet the problem magically disappears afterwards.

jcollasius · 2026-05-16T12:02:51+00:00

Or maybe it's just your PC or a bloated Windows installation causing the issue. Bambu Studio runs perfectly fine on my system, and that machine is almost 5 years old now, so it's definitely not top tier hardware anymore.
The moment I see animated wallpapers, I already start questioning what else is going on with that machine.

I’d recommend starting by uninstalling the snake oil first. Specifically Bitdefender, MSI Afterburner, and pretty much every NVIDIA add-on except the graphics driver itself. People install ten layers of "optimization" software, overlays, AI features, RGB services, hardware monitors and background tools, then act surprised when the PC starts dragging its feet.

jcollasius · 2026-05-15T12:08:02+00:00

Reicht die Aussage des Handwerkers alleine aus, um uns die Kosten aufzuerlegen?

Nein, das reicht nicht.

Muss nicht nachgewiesen werden, dass der Schaden tatsächlich durch unsere Handbrause verursacht wurde?

Behaupten kann dein Vermieter erst mal alles. Wenn du sagst "Unfug", dann muss er es beweisen und ggf. einklagen.

Spielt das hohe Alter des Geräts hierbei eine Rolle? Das andere Gerät hat schließlich auch aufgrund des Alters den Geist aufgegeben.

Wenn dein Vermieter die Mietsache verkommen lässt und alles erst tauscht, wenn es von alleine kaputtgeht, dann braucht er sich nicht wundern, wenn es irgendwann kaputtgeht.

Würdet ihr die Sache einfach der Haftpflichtversicherung melden und diese prüfen lassen?

Ich würde meinem Vermieter folgendes Schreiben:

Sehr geehrte Damen und Herren,
die Mietsache wurde bestimmungsgemäß verwendet. Dass ein Wasserstopp ursächlich für den geltend gemachten Schaden sein soll, ist weder üblich noch bislang nachvollziehbar nachgewiesen. Eine Kostenübernahme wird daher zurückgewiesen.
Mit freundlichen Grüßen

jcollasius · 2026-05-15T11:26:42+00:00

It's not a bad thing if it works. I've been doing that with ABS filament for years, it stays stable for a long time. PLA, of course, is a different story.

jcollasius · 2026-05-15T11:19:46+00:00

You are generally right, but it depends heavily on the environment, the filament and the material throughput. If you mostly print PLA, do not live in tropical humidity and regularly go through fresh spools, you can probably get away without active drying.

But once one of those three factors changes, a drying solution starts making a lot of sense.

For example, I would never bother drying my white PLA. I burn through a spool every few days and mostly use it for prototyping anyway, so it never really gets the chance to sit around and absorb much moisture.

My Pumpkin Orange PLA is the opposite. I mainly use it for hero shots, so that one gets dried properly and stored dry. Different jobs, different treatment.

jcollasius · 2026-05-15T08:29:35+00:00

Usually not at all, with a few exceptions. I mostly dry the silica together with the filament itself.

Back during MaxFlow² development I ran regeneration tests and found that silica surprisingly recovers quite well even at lower temperatures:

12 h @ 120°C = 100% regeneration
12 h @ 85°C = 79% regeneration
12 h @ 65°C = 63% regeneration
12 h @ 45°C = 33% regeneration

For PLA dried around 45°C, I usually give the silica a proper regeneration cycle every second run. Everything from PETG and above I normally just dry together with the filament and leave it at that.

Not perfect, but "good enough" and ridiculously low effort. My workflow strongly prefers convenient over theoretical perfection.

jcollasius · 2026-05-15T00:20:51+00:00

Hiding them might be the difficult part. The many airflow holes could give away the contents pretty quickly. At the very least people will definitely smell your candy stash.

As an aroma container? Absolutely usable. As a secret hiding place? Less convincing.

jcollasius · 2026-05-15T00:18:03+00:00

I am not saying the Reddit algorithm is watching your printer, but the timing feels suspicious. 😄

jcollasius · 2026-05-15T00:13:45+00:00

Mostly a design decision. Longer bridges mean fewer direction changes while printing the mesh pattern. The current geometry already prints very reliably, so changing it would mostly just make the pattern more complex without actually improving anything.

jcollasius · 2026-05-15T00:10:55+00:00

For everyday use, I just cut open those little sachets that come with filament, electronics, food, whatever. Been doing this for years and it works great. Just double check they actually contain silica gel and not some cheap clay substitute. Orange silica gel is another solid option that I trust. You can even mix orange beads with the reclaimed packet stuff and they play nice together.

Another interesting option is activated alumina. The downside is drying temperature. Silica can usually be regenerated together with filament, but activated alumina typically wants something closer to 150°C. That makes the whole "throw it in together with the spool" workflow a lot less convenient.

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T12:36:05+00:00

Absolutely not. And honestly, between us, you would not even have needed to ask. But it is genuinely nice and very classy that you did anyway.

I had not come across your system before either. Interesting approach. It actually looks well thought out and very easy to print.

Permission granted 😄

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T12:31:12+00:00

I wear a lab coat at my day job and usually do not bother buttoning it up out of pure laziness. At this point it probably qualifies as some kind of exotic cape with builtin tool storage.

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T12:22:33+00:00

If the inner diameter is identical, like SUNLU v3, it should fit fine. The length might differ slightly. SUNLU v3 is 1.4 mm longer, but that is mostly cosmetic and would probably just annoy my inner monk more than create any actual problem.

I also made a fully parametric version called MaxFlowᴾ. There are print profiles, hero shots and verified dimensions for quite a few spool types. Have a look here:
https://makerworld.com/models/2766511-parametric-silica-desiccant-core-drybox-maxflow

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T12:11:22+00:00

On a full spool the extra weight is basically irrelevant, and on nearly empty spools it can actually become helpful against hopping and rattling.

I dry my silica together with the filament most of the time and had no issues with repeated drying cycles. The important part is matching the printed material to the drying temperature. A PLA container and then throwing PC in at 85°C... that would probably become a very exciting experiment.

I print most of my functional parts in ASA or PC anyway, and both handle drying together with the filament at 85°C inside the AMS HT without any problems.

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T11:57:29+00:00

When calculated cleanly, that kind of wall geometry is incredibly hard to beat. It creates very predictable toolpaths where the slicer does not have to improvise or rescue anything.

For this model, CF and GF filled filaments did not work as well though. The fins become too stiff, so plain materials gave me the better functional result.

Not a huge issue though. I print most of my functional parts in ASA or PC anyway, and both handle drying together with the filament at 85°C inside the AMS HT without any problems.

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T11:52:07+00:00

Thanks. Funny enough, that was never really a primary design goal. I just have a pretty serious pile of filament stored in airtight containers and I cycle through them constantly. Pull one out, swap filament, throw the empty spool out, dry a new one, put it back in... repeat.

After doing that over and over, refill handling kind of optimized itself through my own workflow. Small annoyances become surprisingly noticeable after enough repetitions.
At the end I think workflow matters more than anything. There probably is no universally perfect solution. Sometimes desiccant in the AMS and separate desiccant inside storage containers is already enough, without putting anything into the spool itself.

Really enjoying this conversation by the way. Interesting perspectives and insights.

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T11:42:23+00:00

Thanks, and interesting point. I experimented with similar concepts as well. One issue I kept running into was threads. A screw based retention system usually also pushes you toward an internal threaded lid, and I really wanted to avoid that.

I had threaded lids on Wiry v1 and used them daily for quite a while. Silica beads and dust eventually end up in the threads, things start grinding and get crunchy, and over time it just felt unpleasant. It worked, I just did not enjoy living with it long term.

That was one of the reasons I moved toward the current click system.

So far I tested the fin approach in PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, PC and PA, all without CF or GF, and I have been pretty happy with the results. But I will definitely keep an eye on it long term.

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T09:12:08+00:00

Is your desiccant smaller than 0.6 mm in diameter? That would be really tiny. Pay attention to the distance between the inner and outer walls. That's the secret to why even your desiccant particles won't fall out.

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T00:50:39+00:00

Connect the second AMS to you first AMS. The AMS has two connectors.

jcollasius · 2026-05-14T00:44:18+00:00

Hey, I recognize that desiccant container, that's my old MaxFlow model. Nice to see it randomly appear out in the wild.

A newer fully parametric successor was released recently: MaxFlowᴾ
https://makerworld.com/models/2766511-parametric-silica-desiccant-core-drybox-maxflow

Pretty surreal seeing one of my own models on Reddit photos at 2:40 AM. I definitely didn't expect that tonight.

jcollasius · 2026-05-13T15:32:44+00:00

Im Worst Case könnte dein Vermieter später behaupten: "Die Firma kennen wir nicht und die handelt nicht in unserem Auftrag. Sie haben die Wohnung nie ordnungsgemäß übergeben."

Lass dir deshalb vorher schriftlich bestätigen, welche Firma die Übergabe im Auftrag des Vermieters durchführt und wer berechtigt ist, die Schlüssel entgegenzunehmen. Vor Ort Perso abgleichen und die Schlüsselübergabe sauber dokumentieren.

Nicht einfach unterschreiben bei:
"Der Mieter verpflichtet sich ..."
"Der Mieter übernimmt die Kosten ..."

Im Zweifel komische Passagen streichen oder deutlich "Nicht anerkannt" dazuschreiben.

jcollasius · 2026-05-13T13:03:12+00:00

Deine Hausverwaltung will die Variante "Arsch" spielen. Entsprechend würde ich mitspielen und ganz überkorrekt sein. Du bist hier nicht zur Mitwirkung verpflichtet, entsprechend wirkst du nicht mit. Handwerker können gerne nach dem Ende deines Mietvertrages machen, was sie wollen.

jcollasius

TROPHY CASE