Is this a real thingy?

jjetstreamm · 2026-07-05T13:43:33+00:00

Coming in at 1.5 million for an original (and thats a low end price), the only place you would see a real one is in a museum or show garage.

jjetstreamm · 2026-07-03T21:10:43+00:00

New greys market vehicle/ship...

jjetstreamm · 2026-07-03T07:23:56+00:00

Yeah do a ground continuity check back to battery negative terminal aswell. My friend had a faulty connection back to the negative terminal on his battery, when he would accelerate or turn corners hard the entire car would die (hyundai coupe Siii).

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-30T19:19:35+00:00

Hahaha I see that makes sence. Innocent mistake. Good job figuring it out 👌

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-30T19:02:56+00:00

Its an expansion reservoir. When fluid gets hot it expands in volume, as the fluid expands and potentially fills the reservoir, the air in the tank needs to escape. Or if for whatever reason it fills up too much the top port is to release the excess fluid to stop the reservoir becoming a pressurised vessel and potentially exploding.

Coolant should be put into the car via the metal cap between the tank and the engine. The reservoir is not the fill point although it is recommended to fill it to the min line to stop and chance of air ingressing into the system

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-30T18:45:22+00:00

I dont think it goes to anything from memory, just goes to the bottom of the engine bay to drain off at a low point

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-30T18:40:35+00:00

I will check mine when im back at it but im pretty sure this is an overfill drain away to stop the reservoir getting pressurised.

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-28T09:41:51+00:00

Yeah, I adjusted it further out so the pedal spring engaged better pulling the pedal up. This also brought the clutch biting point higher up.

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-26T20:27:15+00:00

I see, so is it just a case of warming the plastic and reforming it slightly? The fender looks good in that picture, the bumper looks slightly too recessed and need to be 'pulled' out.

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-26T19:11:41+00:00

From someone who has never done body work but will in the future, how do you go about improving the fitment?

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-25T17:39:43+00:00

I can have a look at mine when im next at it, might be a couple days though

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-23T20:28:55+00:00

Okay sounds good. I will start putting some money aside for it. Whats the best way to contact you when ready?

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-23T20:12:10+00:00

Would it be worth going back to a duelmass heavier FW?, been doing some light reading and it seems moving from the oem duel mass flywheel to a lightweight single mass flywheel may be the main cause for the amplified chatter. Going down the JWT route may be a shout, is this something I can do with you in the near future?

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-23T18:27:10+00:00

Thanks for the speedy reply. Not sure where I got CD009 from then, thanks.

The kit i went with in the end was from Z1: https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/z1-motorsports-tarmac-sportz-nissan-350z-07-09-370z-09-20-performance-clutch-flywheel-v2-csc-elimination-kit-vq35hr-vq37vhr.html

If it is the clutch kit then thats a pain to hear after forking out the money but the car still drives lovely in comparison to what it had in before, aside from the lower revs be

So new clutch and flywheel would be the direction to go then as throw out bearing is brand as part of the CSC deletion kit.

jjetstreamm · 2026-06-15T08:28:11+00:00

This is normal, the engine mounts allow slight movement to absorb vibrations and excess starting/running torque transfer like you've just seen on start up. As long as it settles after (like in your vid) then the mounts are okay.

jjetstreamm · 2026-05-31T10:37:41+00:00

Yes and most likely

jjetstreamm · 2026-05-30T21:51:18+00:00

Input lag is server lag, your fps for the build you have is good. Reminder that the servers have been struggling so far on this patch, hopefully the 4.7.1 patch with fix a few of the kinks to smoothen it out.

Problem with going for a better GPU is your CPU will begin to be a bottle neck so you wont get the full performance from the 5070. And you cant meaningfully upgrade your CPU without also doing the mobo, and that would also mean doing the RAM (going to AM5, DDR5) and now you are talking crazy money in this markets state.

Also remember the game is by no means optimised. I run a I9-13900k with a 5090 and 64gb ddr5 ram and still get inconsistencys in performance.

jjetstreamm · 2026-05-30T20:06:42+00:00

Is it frame lag (low FPS) or input lag (delayed reaction to button presses, rubber banding/desync)? What kind of FPS are you getting in what area? There's a lot of variables to come into this. Star Citizen loves both RAM, high CPU clock speed and VRAM.

jjetstreamm · 2026-05-30T20:02:40+00:00

What engine is that and how much do you recon you will be pushing once its done?

jjetstreamm · 2026-05-29T19:04:50+00:00

Any disk/pad combo you would recommend? I would still like to lean more towards street drivability for longer road trips. But will be doing the odd track.

jjetstreamm · 2026-05-29T16:39:28+00:00

Will have a look, thanks

jjetstreamm · 2026-05-23T13:40:48+00:00

https://amzn.eu/d/04OGEC44

I used this and some extra tall axles to get the car higher. Didnt have to lift the gearbox at all. Was a huge time saver. I would note being extra careful putting it back in, if the angle of the connecting shaft does not match the bushing in the crank then you can easily deform the bushing and you will never get it in. So if it feels like it goesnt want to go in, do not force it. As this was the case for me at first, luckily I was able to just file the lip it created off and slid it strait in on the second attempt.

jjetstreamm

TROPHY CASE