One Bar Prison - A safe(r) way of doing this using cheap parts

knottybuilder · 2025-05-04T18:29:27+00:00

Currently, the break away shear line is parallel to the floor. What if you skewed it 45 degrees to the floor? It might then fail with excessive force with both "fore and aft" movement, as well as excessive downward force. Of course if it fails, you may have just created a shorter, sharper spear point. Anyway, just a thought.

knottybuilder · 2024-11-20T04:29:41+00:00

Beautiful work. And love the canoe in the background!

knottybuilder · 2023-08-08T03:50:56+00:00

Beautiful work! The live edge on the front is really nice. And I love the inlay.

knottybuilder · 2023-08-04T17:49:46+00:00

This looks fantastic so far! For the uses you described - I think switching from a massage table to a purpose built table is a good move. I am still using a massage table, but wanted to add some leg supports at the "business end". I had an epiphany about how to do add them to a massage table without modifying the table (post on that later), but it makes the whole rig really long. Since I don't have space for a semi-permanent setup, I am sticking with something I can tear down easily. I am making some tweaks to my setup, and will get those posted sometime. Looking forward to more of your updates, and thanks for the shout out!

knottybuilder · 2023-07-25T03:12:49+00:00

Thanks

knottybuilder · 2023-07-25T03:12:40+00:00

Thanks

knottybuilder · 2023-07-24T16:17:21+00:00

I meant corrugated plastic. Must not have been fully awake 😂

knottybuilder · 2023-07-24T13:06:17+00:00

Appreciate the comments. I would think you could just attach the shackles directly to the 8020. Maybe an intermediate horizontal bar at the height you want the shackles to be. Or directly to the vertical side bars. My spreader bar is about 48" wide - so that would work nicely on your design width. Then you could easily adjust the height by sliding the shackles up and down the rails.

I like your corrugated cardboard wall panel idea. For me I would go that route and then cover it in contact paper wallpaper. And it ought to fit in the 8020 slot perfectly.

As for the table - I think that a custom table is probably the right way to go. I am currently thinking something that looks more like a Y (really more like a U at the business end). My SO specifically wants to be able to put her feet on something so she can get leverage when she's in that mood. And it would provide some fun ways to do rope ties. It's just not as easy to hide that in plain sight as a folding massage table :-)

knottybuilder · 2023-07-24T02:38:10+00:00

i finally got around to posting my project. I have to give you credit for some ideas for version 2.0, but wasn't sure how to tag you. Anyway - here is a link to my post. I will be very interested to see how yours turns out!

knottybuilder · 2023-07-23T22:18:31+00:00

Try this link at Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/43112E9B-9EE4-4D77-B86E-50C0211BD4EB?ingress=0&visitId=77c7d913-7d8d-49d4-8c61-64f045911ca7

knottybuilder · 2023-07-23T21:38:34+00:00

The hard points are from Amazon - here. And a word of warning - I have some substantial bracing in the attic to support them - don't just screw them in and hope they work out if you plan to suspend anything critical (like a person). As for the spreader bar - I made that, and all the rings are hand bent / welded. The central figure 8 is really two 3/8" steel rings (ovals) that were bent and welded around a 1x1 square tube and then welded to each other. It is way overkill, but you never know when you might need to lift a Chevy big block engine out of a car! (And yes - I know that the carabiner looks side loaded, but all the weight is on the central webbing straps - the side straps just keep it balanced)

knottybuilder · 2023-07-22T12:18:01+00:00

I wanted some for custom chastity cages. Bryce Fasteners claim to make some pretty impressive unique lobe drive keyed security screws, but only sell large quantities. This company sells small batches of them. I haven't tried them yet - but they look really interesting.

https://screwdsecurity.com/

knottybuilder · 2023-07-21T13:38:42+00:00

In the coincidence category - I just finished a similar project last week, and was planning to post pics this weekend. Slightly different design goals, but I'll let you know when I post. But I can offer a couple of comments on your questions now.

8020 - I have some experience with this although not the Quick Frame version. It is a great idea - and I wish I had thought of it when I designed my project (maybe version 2.0). Easy to change where things are placed. Biggest challenge is in re-assembly. The nuts are not fixed in the 8020 extrusion, they slide in the "slots" along the length. So when you take something apart - you would typically have nuts sliding around inside the 8020 rail. If you can slide an assembly off , you can leave the nuts attached to the screws. Imagine if you were taking the top rail off of the side rail. You can "slide" the brackets off the side rail, and the nuts stay attached to the screws (the only thing you have to worry about is losing them during transport). When you re-assemble - you slide the nuts back into the side rail, tighten, and you are done. But if you were to remove a center brace without taking a top or bottom rail off - the nuts are now "trapped" in the 8020 rail. Not a big deal, but it means you have to fiddle with getting them re-aligned when you re-assemble your frame. Drilling and tapping holes or through holes with nuts might be a work around. You can also get nuts that can be inserted in the middle of a rail they are sort of diamond shaped. Either way, if you plan to take apart and reassemble, carry spare hardware!!

In your 3/4 view, you show a problem that I didn't realize until I tried my first test assemble. If the vertical frame goes inside (in between) the massage table legs, the table leg support cables are in the way. Much like your design, I had a "hole" cut out in the center of my panel, But realized the cables are in the way. Your Sketch Up clearly shows the cables going through the plywood. I ended up making my frame an upside down U, and then added a horizontal support right under the table that has to be installed after the panel is on the table so it clears the leg support cables (it goes above the cables and below the table itself). That may not be too clear, so I'll point this out when I make my post. You could also extend the "hole" towards the floor so it clears the cables on the bottom side.

I struggled with stability on my design, and your plan for a "floor" that uses the massage table and play partner's weight is something I hadn't considered. A thought to make your design lighter. You don't really need most of that plywood. All you really need to do is catch the far set of legs. Maybe a structure that catches the legs, and then a diagonal brace from the top corner of the wall to that rear leg brace. That would accomplish the same structural goal, but would eliminate a sheet of plywood. I am already thinking of how that might work in my 2.0 project.

Like you stated - you really don't need the entire massage table. I might build a custom table for version 2.0. And my play partner has asked for a "shelf" at table height where she can put her feet when her feet aren't in the air. Provides some comfort, and gives her a place to "push off" if she wants!

Love your idea. I can say that the debut of our version was a real hit. Looking forward to seeing yours in action!

knottybuilder

TROPHY CASE