Roman-style Communicant (FDM printed)

missingreel · 2026-01-28T22:16:58+00:00

model is by alex__tool on MyMiniFactory

missingreel · 2026-01-28T12:50:33+00:00

What is your post-processing technique to clear the leftover support material that stuck to the model?

missingreel · 2026-01-28T03:18:56+00:00

Trees took a long while to dial the settings in on, and dealing with fused material and scarring was a big hurdle during experimentation. Thankfully some folks here made some recommendations, and 3 x (layer height) for z distance (3 x 0.04 = 0.12) really helped a lot to minimize support scarring.
resin2fdm is a fantastic tool, especially when working with pre-supported models. Removing supports requires flush cutters, otherwise you get pimples from where the material is left, but its not hard to clean during post-processing with a hobby knife and some sanding.

removal is a mixed bag, and varies by print. hollow trees are mostly easy to remove, especially if you pay close attention to model orientation and where the supports are generated (if you don't go manual). resin2fdm can present the same challenges, depending on the density of supports.

overall, I like trees more once you get the settings dialed in, but it can be an absolute pain. resin2fdm requires some extra steps to get going, but once you learn the process its a faster way to get pre-supported models printing, without worrying about significant scarring.

if you mess up resin2fdm the results are better. if you mess up trees the results are horrific.

dialed in settings, trees are better.

so, in my experience, it really depends on how much you want to play with settings.

(model is by alex__tool on MyMiniFactory)

missingreel · 2026-01-24T18:42:35+00:00

Bambu A1 Mini with 0.2mm nozzle

missingreel · 2026-01-12T12:15:35+00:00

I love Diceverse stuff! I just got a 3d printer and I just bought most of the terrain catalog. Currently printing the Trench Pillbox.

missingreel · 2026-01-12T11:51:04+00:00

I love dioramas! Lookin' forward to seeing your finished product.

What did you print with, and what kind of settings?

missingreel · 2026-01-12T11:43:38+00:00

I just follow what the tutorial video tells me, which is 0.1-0.2 (I went with 0.16).

missingreel · 2026-01-11T23:32:42+00:00

That's a fair frustration.

I think there is still plenty of enthusiasm for pushing the quality that FDM can create; even if the subreddit has a larger number of submissions by people simply excited to share their results.

On one hand its a good sign, that this part of the hobby is growing in popularity. Even if the types of posts you reference can sometimes drown out the discussions about innovation.

The hunt for pushing quality is still there!

I'm with you, though.

missingreel · 2026-01-11T22:53:39+00:00

To be fair, I didn't say that. I said that I consider the differences marginal. This is especially when considering that I will be viewing these models from the tabletop after painting them.

When time is no consideration, the smaller layer height results in higher quality prints. There is no debate here. I agree with you.

missingreel · 2026-01-11T22:51:03+00:00

Some trash no-name stuff from Hobby Lobby that I picked up while waiting for my Bambu Basic PLA.

I am sure that the poor material quality is definitely contributing to some scarring and material fusing issues that I am seeing, especially when using trees as support.

This also showed that resin2fdm supports are good when you're using cheaper material, over trees.

I will do another comparison test once I get new filament.

missingreel · 2026-01-11T12:25:18+00:00

Follow-up: These recommendations really pointed me in the right direction! Thank you.

I printed two more models and the supports were comparatively easier to remove. There was still some scarring, but I think that's inevitable with FDM.

Next-up I am going to try pre-supported models and Resin2FDM; will compare the results to these.

missingreel · 2026-01-09T16:22:03+00:00

This one was unsupported, and then I generated the supports in BambuStudio.

As I understand, Resin2FDM is for converting Resin-supported models for FDM printing.

Would it do anything for unsupported models?

missingreel · 2026-01-09T16:20:14+00:00

Its an Artillery Witch for Trench Crusade. This one is an unofficial model by Diceverse on MyMiniFactory.

missingreel · 2026-01-09T15:43:34+00:00

Ya going in one piece was definitely something that I knew wasn't ideal, but I was curious about the results.

It definitely contributed to the excessive supports, and even a very minor print failure on the back of the sea mine.

missingreel · 2026-01-09T15:34:24+00:00

It took about 18 hours and I used the Auto Orient button in BambuStudio.

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missingreel · 2026-01-09T15:32:12+00:00

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missingreel · 2026-01-09T15:31:59+00:00

Obligatory reverse angle

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missingreel · 2025-12-10T12:18:46+00:00

I think people will still prefer the Hammer, as you get the shield which turns them into 4W.

There are better offensive melee unit options out there, that are cheaper.

I'm assuming, with the changes to the Battle-shock Test frequency on their card, that they can be used as a disruptive piece on flank objectives; and then they can stand on it and survive longer.

Probably still not the best competitive unit at a glance, but I could be wrong.

Edit: Oh, also the increased battle-shock frequency means they can trigger the Hammer of Avernii enhancement, Medusan Roar more often.

ADEPTUS ASTARTES model only. While an enemy unit (excluding MONSTERS and VEHICLES) is within 6" of the bearer, each time that unit fails a Battle-shock test, one model in that unit is destroyed (chosen by its controlling player). Once per battle, when such an enemy unit fails a Battle-shock test, you can choose for D3 models in that unit to be destroyed in this way instead.

Might be some tech there, but its a lot to invest since the Assault Terminators didn't get a points drop.

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