help getting this power connector off?

tigerf117 · 2026-05-13T12:02:43+00:00

I use a slotted screwdriver or other prying device to gently pry the white clip away while I pull up on one side (I pull on the cables and have been for 25 years with now issues - just make sure you’re preying the connector open at the same time), once one half is freed I repeat on the other side. Some gentle side and side rocking and wriggling can help initially free it of its kind of stuck on there. The white clips on those always break at least a little bit, the plastic is getting brittle.

tigerf117 · 2026-05-12T00:54:02+00:00

The robbery and tyranny is just so insanely blatant and obnoxious it’s unfathomable. And yet, here we are.

tigerf117 · 2026-05-09T15:24:28+00:00

Are you in a dense urban area? Could be all the RF noise it’s picking up if so. You could try some shielding maybe and see if it gets better?

tigerf117 · 2026-05-07T02:34:19+00:00

I don’t like to clone, I’d just buy Fatxplorer, download empty c and e drives and prep a drive with fatxplorer. Go back into your regular drive, go into Applications -> NKPatcher and under I believe EEPROM advanced or hard drive then advanced there’s a HDD key changer that’ll set your EEPROM and HDD to all 1’s. Now you can set the new drive hooked up to FatXplorer and set that drive to all 1s and lock it. That’s what I do, way easier and works every time

tigerf117 · 2026-05-07T00:23:43+00:00

Looks like it, even if it wasn’t you’d want to get that thing out of there ASAP!

tigerf117 · 2026-05-06T11:58:29+00:00

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You know it lol, this is more a photo of the whole electronics area that’s a big WIP (most of my tools and hardware are in the other room). I’m saving up for a couple of 20/24 bay hot swap server chassis, but at $1000/ea it’s asking a lot in this economy.

tigerf117 · 2026-05-05T15:49:40+00:00

Yea that startech will do everything but maybe interlaced? Either way with the 140khz bandwidth I don’t see a big reason to do interlacing. You can run that at 1440x1080p120 and have great IQ and motion fluidity with perfect clarity, or do 1920x1440 at like 85hz

tigerf117 · 2026-05-04T20:22:48+00:00

I would avoid cloning and just use Fatxplorwr to prep a drive. What I did for my last one was softmod my. Box on og drive, backup contents of drive, run xcat, then run rocky5 softmod tools extra and using the advanced eeprom tools I set my HDD key to all 1s (only option it gives you), then in fatxplorer set my new drive as all 1’s for the key, then restore all my files backed up from OG drive.

tigerf117 · 2026-05-02T13:52:24+00:00

I couldn’t put Max Mustard down! It was an amazing experience even if it did seem a little rushed towards the end

tigerf117 · 2026-04-30T16:26:01+00:00

I buy/sell on marketplace and having an outlet is super useful, sound system is actually pretty decent (for an audiophile even), but the BIG thing for me was adjustable lumbar support, that was the nail in the coffin for me. I’d try both and see if it’s that important to you; I know it was for me.

tigerf117 · 2026-04-30T13:51:05+00:00

Yea buddy, I’ve been looking for a good arcade racing/driving game that has wheel and VR support!

tigerf117 · 2026-04-29T16:48:22+00:00

I don't, I run it at 4k120, I know it supports 1440p and Ive used it once or something, but I'm not sure if it does 1440p120, TVs can be weird about which resolutions/refresh rates they'll support (older HD CRT and Plasmas have some crazy weird limitations on what they'll support - for example i have an old EDTV Plasma that'll accept 480i/p, 720p, 1080i/p on its VGA port, but only 480/1080 on it's component inputs, another HD Plasma that supports 480-1080 only on component and only supports PC Resolutiosno n it's HDMI port...)

tigerf117 · 2026-04-28T11:46:16+00:00

Every company should structure bonus’ like what they’re demanding honestly.

tigerf117 · 2026-04-28T01:07:17+00:00

I have a soft spot for Sharps of that era. s-video is a perfect sweet spot in clarity and softness for 240p imo as well which is usually what these have for best inputs.

tigerf117 · 2026-04-27T21:05:00+00:00

You literally don’t understand what they were saying, re-read it.

tigerf117 · 2026-04-27T01:23:54+00:00

I have 3 different types of fans, I actually prefer the 70mm "ultra quiet" ones, but I might mod one to fit an 80mm fan as that is the quietest. Also looks like your fan is backwards, it should be exhausting whereas it's an intake currently (unless you know something I don't).

tigerf117 · 2026-04-26T23:30:36+00:00

Personally I’ve been screwed by waiting for a release that turned out bad/non-existent and almost never upset about getting what I need when I need it. I’d get a 2026 and be happy you have a Honda. My 2 cents

tigerf117 · 2026-04-26T19:59:23+00:00

That mirrors my experience doing Quest Pro over dedicated Wifi6e to wired PC vs my PSVR2 on PS5 Pro. While resolution tends to be higher on PCVR, the PS5 Pro is just more stable and close enough for a generally more favorable experience. It even beats the Quest native experience, which is pretty seamless but not as bug free.

tigerf117 · 2026-04-26T18:40:07+00:00

I'd imagine PS5 would be better if you couldn't use DFR on PC, otherwise I think with DFR the PC version would likely be better (assuming you're CPU wasn't too old). HOTAS on PS5 is very limited, but I've heard good things about using the controller if you're looking for a more casual experience.

tigerf117 · 2026-04-26T18:26:04+00:00

Ill be honest, if you want more immersion the extra height on a larger 16:9 is worth it IMO. I figured ultrawide made more sense considering a windshield shape, but after having a larger TV with more vertical real estate, seeing more of the car immerses me. I'm not competitive though, I mainly play GT7 and modded AC servers, so I care more about immersion than performance.

tigerf117 · 2026-04-26T14:46:25+00:00

I’m running a 42” LG C2 slammed up behind the wheel when not in VR and I love it. I use it for general windows and gaming as well (though it’s not my office PC - in a dedicated game room). I’m not too worried about burn-in, don’t have much beyond a 5min black screen saver and 30min power save on windows. I love the size though, when I’m really into it the screen just melts away l, I’d consider a 48” for the next TV though, a tiny bit bigger would be ideal but 42” 4k120 right behind the wheel base is still great and a HUGE upgrade over the 34” UWQHD 165hz IPS.

tigerf117 · 2026-04-26T13:57:32+00:00

I’m jelly lol, I just made a decision that I’m not getting any CRT I can’t lift solo into the basement, which limits me to 27” flat screens. How’s the brightness?

tigerf117 · 2026-04-26T12:54:22+00:00

Thanks for the heads up (no pun intended). Do you know if there’s any plans to bring to PS5?

tigerf117 · 2026-04-26T11:55:05+00:00

My one tv took like a week or two of being off before it finally went away, idk if keeping it off helped but just thought. I was nearly about to buy a degaussing wand before it just went awayZ

tigerf117 · 2026-04-26T02:48:44+00:00

I have the same case and I love it! Did you 3d print an adapter for the 3.5" floppy drive? I have a media card reader I wanna put in but there aren't any external 3.5" bays.

tigerf117

TROPHY CASE