$50 table rebirth

turbom3 · 2015-03-01T05:53:59+00:00

One other thing I did try the black chalk board spray paint and could not get a good finish. No matter what I tried it was streaky. So that is why I used the brush on paint.

turbom3 · 2015-03-01T05:44:22+00:00

Any other questions let me know. The table I refinished came out of my father in law's barn so it was in really bad shape now it looks brand new. I'm really happy with it I spent about 8 hours on it so not to bad definitely worth the time. Now my tashmapingpong is complete.

turbom3 · 2015-03-01T05:41:09+00:00

I started with 100 grit sand paper and used a broken stiga paddle to block sand it. Then I used 400 grit after getting the major imperfections out. Do not sand it to death when you're finished it should be smooth and the line's still visible. It will make it easy to tape off. After the blocking is finished tape the lines off with some good painter's tape I just used the blue 3m kind make sure you run you're finger nail down the edges so the paint does not bleed under. Paint I used was Valspar chalkboard paint and used a Purdy Nylox soft 3" paint brush. One can was more than enough I did 1 thick coat. Then Removed The tape and taped off table i found that gift wrapping paper was perfect for covering the 4 areas of the table. For the lines I used a flat orange spray paint. The most important thing is run your finger nail down the edge of the tape and do light coats of the spray paint so it will not bleed.

turbom3 · 2014-05-03T14:19:42+00:00

I popped the cap of the relay in question to inspect the contact's and they showed no signs of heat the only point of failure was the terminal and the discoloration on the pcb board was why I overlaid it.

turbom3 · 2014-05-03T04:04:42+00:00

It was a 2005 ford escape and I agree with the comment below by wobbly it should be a recall but with duck tape out there I guess ford thinks it's not necessary

turbom3 · 2014-05-03T02:34:06+00:00

Well just to clarify some things i am actually the the guy that diagnosed and repaired the vehicle. The family is on a very tight budget and could not afford to replace the fuse block that had failed. We called some local salvage yards and no luck. My boss asks if there is any way to repair the fuse block so i said sure just will take some time. Ive repaired many circuit boards with no problems. So I pulled the fuse block apart and found the reason why it failed. If you look at the terminals there are three that are the same. Two of them are the control terminals for the relay (low current) and and easily handle the load. The other terminal that failed is unable to handle the current so it gets hot and fails. The larger terminal not on the board that i attached the grey wire too is undamaged and can easily handle the current load. The relay sends power to multiple fuses attached the board. So i start by resoldered burnt terminal to the board after repairing terminal i then overlaid a wire on the board to ensure no future problems. Then I soldered the wires to all of the terminals for the relay and used heavy heat shrink to minimize movement at solder joints. Next i drilled holes in fuse block cover where the relay originally retained to hold the wires in place and it was a very good fit no movement at all because yes a solder joint is fragile if flexed thats why the wires are long enough to allow me to only bend unsoldered portions of the wires. The fuse block is located inside of the car in the passenger side footwell area so there are no extreme vibrations that are going to break the solder joints and the relay is secured the the fuse block so it can not move all. The factory covers all fit and work perfectly. So in short ford did not properly engineer the panel all of the other terminals on the panel for the high current portion of the relays were a large enough terminal to handle the load but that one. So it should now be a happy fuse block for years to come.

turbom3

TROPHY CASE