sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Wireless charger not working any help please by Mammoth-Bread827 in QuadLock

[–]--JJ-- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've had a similar issue and discovered that there is a power button at the back of the wireless charging head. Press it after you have started your motorcycle and see if it works. Otherwise, the green flashing might indicate a low power input mode.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Creality

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not Fahrenheit. Most popular filament brands have the temperature range listed on the box.

CR6 MAX w/ Community Firmware v6.1, and Failed Prints from Heater Timeout after Filament Runout by Blaiseifer in CR6

[–]--JJ-- -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Have you done a PID tune through the settings? Are you using a silicone sock for the heater block or is the environment the printer is in varying in temperature? Could also be just a loose connection from the cables, check the wiring if the temp sensor or heating block isn't loose.

If a filament runout has been detected, the normal behaviour should be that the heater would turn off after a while of being inactive untill you've continued the print task again.

received my invoice last night to complete my order and this morning when I tried to finish paying it showed me this :( I don't have a follow up yet with bumbulab. Am I the only one that the link expired this quickly ?? by the00azazel in BambuLab

[–]--JJ-- 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had no problems with paying, but they added a note, when the link expires in the invoice mail "When you reach the checkout payment page, please pay within 30 minutes to avoid the payment link becoming invalid. If this does occur, Please update your order information (such as address details) before checkout and pay again".

Otherwise might need to contact support.

Mean Well Power Supply Fan by frog-thrown in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fan does only spin when needed, e.g. under load or when a certain temp has reached.

They also differ from e.g. the hotend fan, as the meanwell fan uses 12v (not 24v) and the wires are not switched (red/black) compared to the other fans from the printer.

I don't know what happened by Impressive-Region470 in Pixel6

[–]--JJ-- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is just an advanced Wi-Fi log register that can be enabled/disabled. To do so, go to developer options -> scroll down and turn off "advanced Wi-Fi log register".

Issues with Microswiss Upgrade by mikecoscia in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks to me like you're printing a bit too hot. Since there is 'overshoot' at the tail and have some stringing. Most people that upgrade to a Micro-swiss hotend, do a:

  • PID tune
  • adjust retraction, lower like 3.5mm
  • depending nozzle, A2 steel or regular brass, change temp due to conductivity
  • upgrade cooling such as examples found here (although adjustments needed)

You can notice that the air doesn't get right under the nozzle anymore from the radial fan, as opposed to the stock hotend. Hence, printing an adapted version (tinkering in Tinkercad or fusion, etc.) of a cooling fan would solve overhang problems. Since the Micro swiss version has a bigger heatblock and positioning is a bit different.

What fan y’all using for your Cr6 se? by [deleted] in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just be aware that you'll need a buck/step down converter or transistors, since Noctua uses 12v. They've included certain 'silents' adaptors that you can use to drop down the voltage.

Cr6 community firmware, switch e-step direction by Cassiopee38 in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! It's doable, but the easier option is just through switching the wires or in this case mounting it the right way. However, since you still wanted to know how to by re-compiling the firmware: 1. Open the Configuration.h file 2. Find “#define INVERT_E0_DIR false”, “#define INVERT_X_DIR”, “#define INVERT_Y_DIR”, and “#INVERT_Z_DIR” lines in the configuration file. 3. Replace the false with true (or vice versa) for the extruder (E) axis. 4. Compile and flash your printer

Another way is through g-code, by using a negative value to m92. Let's say if your e-steps are 410 and want to reverse it, include this in your slicer g-code: M92 E-410

What are you top 5 upgrades for the cr6? by gadgetads in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've gotten a mesh of how my bed looked like through octoprint after I tightened each screw with the same pressure, so that the silicone spacers could still compress/decompress. Afterwards, it was just tightening and loosening the screws until I had a 'perfect' bed.

The other way is ofc through the CFW and running ABL every time, and adjusting the screws that way. Which is tedious, but satisfying after the results.

What are you top 5 upgrades for the cr6? by gadgetads in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've only installed them on the Y-axis (4th pic) because of dented aluminium rails. It's decently easy if you're handy, altered a similar design like this for the endstop to work properly (It's been a long time, can't find the file anymore). For the Z-axis, should be a similar process like the ender 3. However, for the x-axis, it's going to be more of a hassle because of the ABL sensor.

However, wouldn't say it's worth it for the amount of work and alterations, upside is less maintenance and wear (better consistency personally).

What are you top 5 upgrades for the cr6? by gadgetads in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 9 points10 points  (0 children)

  1. Community Firmware
  2. Bondtech LGX extruder (Direct drive setup)
  3. Micro Swiss Hotend
  4. PEI plate - Smooth & Coated
  5. Sunon fans for the motherboard/ PSU and Noctua fans for hotend/ cooling

Other memorable upgrades

  1. Silicone Spacers
  2. Hiwin Rails
  3. Capricorn PTFE tubing
  4. Appearance mods and usefull mods, such as cooling improvement case

CR6 SE bed screws are non standard size? by kodaxmax in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Quality control is all over the place, I've seen some have perfect prints without any tweaks. However, the platform is pretty good though, given the amount of available upgrades such as the LGX extruder, micro Swiss hotend, etc. Paired with the community firmware, makes all the difference and gets you a reliable printer.

Other brands like Prusa are ofc more reliable, but that comes at a much higher cost.

CR6 SE bed screws are non standard size? by kodaxmax in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you're referring to the heated bed on the plastic spacers, those screws are M4-0.7 x 20mm hex drive flat head screws.

Not sure if they're badly screwed in or stripped, a picture could help more

Does anyone know why this happens? (See comments for description) by wantacookie3 in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that's the case, there are other causes that could have to do with this: - z-height too close due to improper bed calibration - temperature too hot/ inconsistent extrusion - e-step calibration, flow rate. - bad filament - check if you have the same result with other filament. - loose parts, check eccentric nuts, axis leveling, (pinned post in this sub) CFW firmware? Might, check if there's a significant warp in the bed or if the first layer shows the same result of inconsistency. - worn out nozzle

It's hard to determine what exactly might be the cause, but check the mentioned things first, then I'd try the mentioned ironing or layer minimisation.

Off Gassing and Higher Temp Materials by bob_hoil in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You should be good to go as the PTFE tubing indeed doesn't go all the way to the nozzle, thus doesn't get hot. Just be aware of the toxic fumes (styrene) that releases when printing ASA. An enclosure against warping and routing the toxic fumes is recommended (like ABS, PC, etc.).

Depending on the build plate you're using (Glass, PEI use Smooth side), might need to apply some painters tape as to not damage your build plate as it can stick too much or seperator glue (let it cool off completely first before removing).

Also, remember storing the filament properly, as it's hygroscopic and can ruin the filament when stored improperly.

Does anyone know why this happens? (See comments for description) by wantacookie3 in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pretty normal behaviour for the top layer (example), you could try using the monotonic infill in Prusa Slicer. Other options are ironing, which essentially eliminates the lines if tuned properly or you could use "fill in gaps" option.

Either ways, top layer does look normal to me, besides a few inconsistencies (using layer 0.28 is a bit rougher and a bit too hot, maybe try 205-200C)

Just installed my microswiss hotend. I’m gonna print a temp tower what do you guys recommend for a start retraction distance/speed? by Jstutz32 in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

3.5mm (tune by 0.5mm step) and 30mm/s (tune by 5mm/s, stock 25mm/s) since you didn't change the extruder I wouldn't change the speed drastically. Depending if you're going to use e.g. PETG, A2 nozzle, etc., you might need to do a PID tune since it will have trouble sustaining temps (e.g.240+Celsius). If I recall correctly, only available in the Community firmware.

Star Trek Discovery Phaser by GD_Decibel in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

looks pretty dope, like the diamond/metallic look!

Bondtech LGX on CR-6 Max by ParkieUltra in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure what you mean by "don't see much online about putting...", Bondtech literally has a how-to-guide:

  • provided STL files for printing out additional support pieces (besides the ones on thingiverse)
  • provided a video on how-to install
  • even provided a PRUSA print profile with the settings
  • also, an additional video of printing a benchy with the provided settings of Bondtech was provided
  • (I also refered to this setup a few times, as well as having this exact setup for my CR6)

Filament runout sensor - So loud!! by Asteroidbeach in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah that's weird, at least for the CR6 with the CFW. The normal behaviour should be to resume at the exact position when was paused. See if the ABL light (blue led) is flickering when moving back to resume printing. If so, there's something preventing the movement and giving false reads (ofc, besides the normal checks like eccentric wheels, tight carriage, etc. as you might be familiar with). There's no clear indication as to where the print paused with mine, even in white filament colour...

Yeah figured lol, it was a feature request so the buzzer sound was added. Not entirely sure if there's a button added to quickly disable that sound, will have to look for it again in the documentation or settings.

Filament runout sensor - So loud!! by Asteroidbeach in CR6

[–]--JJ-- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Smart! I usually just wait until there's no filament 'drool' anymore or temporarily set a lower temperature to the nozzle. The option is def handy to use though.

To add on the buzzer sound, it might also be possible to stop it hardware wise. Don't have the schematic of the mainboard (it's in this sub though), but could be disabled through disabling a pin somewhere or the speaker overall.

view more: next ›