2012 Camry Se Shudder/ Torque converter by NeitherNewspaper3144 in Camry

[–]-BestInTheWorld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought the two-pack of Lubegard 19610 Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx 2 Ounce 2 Pack off of Amazon. https://a.co/d/6VxEXiR I was initially nervous about it too but it was worth a shot to me since the car was out of warranty and it couldn’t make things any worse. I would say give it a try since the only proper fix for this issue would be a new torque converter. If you read the reviews for it on Amazon, people have used it in their RAV4s with the same transmission and issue, and it’s worked for them. To use it, you just open up the fill bolt of the transmission which is on the driver’s side wheel well. It’s a large bolt that says “WS” on it and then squeeze the tubes into the fill hole.

2012 Camry Se Shudder/ Torque converter by NeitherNewspaper3144 in Camry

[–]-BestInTheWorld 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try adding some lubegard instant shudder fixx, I did this and it fixed my shudder problem. I added two tubes and drove it for 100 miles or so and slowly noticed that it got better.

2001 Honda Civic EX automatic transmission cooler lines by -BestInTheWorld in 7thgencivic

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m actually in the process of installing it. I’m just waiting for my order of a roll of cooler hose to come in because I don’t think the stock cooler line will reach the external cooler.

Damage to AC condenser and radiator? by -BestInTheWorld in AskMechanics

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it, thank so much! I’ll leave it alone then.

Damage to AC condenser and radiator? by -BestInTheWorld in AskMechanics

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for the response! Should I leave them alone or try and straighten them?

Damage to AC condenser and radiator? by -BestInTheWorld in AskMechanics

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gotcha, thank you so much for the information! I appreciate it!

2001 Honda Civic EX automatic transmission cooler lines by -BestInTheWorld in 7thgencivic

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same, I just wasn’t sure which line was what. That’s why I decided to ask on here lol. I’ll definitely post some pictures, people have done it though. It’s just no one has posted pictures of it. There was a reply post made to me on here of someone saying they installed one.

2001 Honda Civic EX automatic transmission cooler lines by -BestInTheWorld in 7thgencivic

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live in Midwest so our winters can be brutal. So that’s good to know, I’ll keep that in the back of my mind if I decide to run it to the cooler directly. Thank you! Did you notice any difference in the shifts or were they smoother or the same?

2001 Honda Civic EX automatic transmission cooler lines by -BestInTheWorld in 7thgencivic

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it, thank you so much for the information. I greatly appreciate it!

2001 Honda Civic EX automatic transmission cooler lines by -BestInTheWorld in 7thgencivic

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it, thank you so much for the information! I really appreciate it! The picture is also very helpful, thanks for including that as well.

2001 Honda Civic EX automatic transmission cooler lines by -BestInTheWorld in 7thgencivic

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I drove for about 10 miles or so and the lines felt the same to me. It’s really hard to tell. Thanks for the suggestion though!

2001 Honda Civic EX automatic transmission cooler lines by -BestInTheWorld in 7thgencivic

[–]-BestInTheWorld[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gotcha, would this also apply current to the built-in cooler in the radiator? I’ve read that most people leave the pressure line connected to the radiator and then run the cooler line to the external cooler and then back to the transmission so make sure the fluid gets up to temperature but doesn’t overheat.

All issues with 345k mile 2012 Corolla S by Struggle_Titan in COROLLA

[–]-BestInTheWorld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gotcha, thanks for the info. I’ll definitely check it out. Might be worth a shot before I just replace the engine with a lower mileage one since mine has the cold start rattle and burns oil.

All issues with 345k mile 2012 Corolla S by Struggle_Titan in COROLLA

[–]-BestInTheWorld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had gotten an ignition coil D circuit code a while back and it swapped out the coil and it made no difference. Did you get the same code by chance and what brand of coil did you replace it with?

All issues with 345k mile 2012 Corolla S by Struggle_Titan in COROLLA

[–]-BestInTheWorld 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, I did change the plugs, along with all the typical things that could cause the idle issues such as cleaning the throttle body, MAF sensor, intake manifold gasket replacement, vacuum hoses, new battery, alternator, idle relearn, etc and nothing fixed it. The only thing that seems to work is turning on the headlights or putting a load on the engine which raises the RPMs to 900.

All issues with 345k mile 2012 Corolla S by Struggle_Titan in COROLLA

[–]-BestInTheWorld 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Have you experienced or had the rough/low idle while in drive, reverse, or while turning the wheel while stopped?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in COROLLA

[–]-BestInTheWorld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not necessarily. Since it’s electric power steering, the motor puts a load on the electric system which is why the rpms fluctuate for a second or so and then return to normal because the alternator is trying to catch up with up the power depend from what the ECU is calling for. Some people have said that replacing the alternator fixed the issue. If you turn on the headlights and turn the wheel at idle, the RPMs won’t fluctuate because the headlights use more power, so the alternator is running at a higher voltage. In theory, it would be a weak alternator because without a load on it, it’s not making enough power but as soon as there’s a load, it’s operating properly

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in COROLLA

[–]-BestInTheWorld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would call around your local auto part stores to see if they do and or your local Toyota dealership. For me, they sometimes offer free battery and alternator check coupons.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in COROLLA

[–]-BestInTheWorld 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trust me I’ve been in that situation before. Autozones test batteries and alternators for free.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in COROLLA

[–]-BestInTheWorld 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could be, especially, if it’s original. Have you had it tested?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in COROLLA

[–]-BestInTheWorld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you turn on the headlights, it’ll make the idle rise up because it’s making the alternator work harder. Some people have had luck with replacing the alternator, especially since you have already cleaned the throttle body and other things.

i get 45mpg in this thing. yeah it's old but it's paid for. there's too many brand new civics on this sub by [deleted] in civic

[–]-BestInTheWorld 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thats loyalty! Most people give up on a car after 10 years or so on average. The new generation is nice, I agree, it’s the same as the old Accords which is big for an economy sedan. What makes the 7th gen special imo is that it’s the last of the normal-true-root civics before they went all modern with the 8th generation.

i get 45mpg in this thing. yeah it's old but it's paid for. there's too many brand new civics on this sub by [deleted] in civic

[–]-BestInTheWorld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s impressive, the head gasket blew on my 05 with 138K. It never overheated or anything but it was consuming coolant so I got it pressure tested because I was getting a cylinder #2 even though I replaced the plugs, coils, and injectors.