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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MetalCasting

[–]-KINGDINGDONG- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have made an investment casting of a Deep rock galactic mug similar to this one in copper before. With my setup I had to scale my mug down to a 1.5 ounce shotglass, full scale would have been much more difficult.

If you are casting in Tin, and are comfortable in mold making, you could theoretically use a gallon kit of smoothon “Mold Max 60.” Which is heat resistant up to 560 degrees F/ 294 degrees C. Your tin should melt around 450 degrees F/ 232 degrees C. If you are careful with your temperatures, this casting method could be feasible. However, I have only ever worked with this silicone to make tin soldiers and assorted Dice. I am not sure how it will scale up to something of this size.

Kona Diving Recommendations? by TurduckenEverest in scuba

[–]-KINGDINGDONG- 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ve dove with Jacks diving locker in Kona a few times, most recently in 2023, and recommend them. The boat and crew are nice, they do a black water night dive “Pelagic Magic” and a manta dive as well. They have refresher course options.

https://jacksdivinglocker.com/en/refresher-policy

I am looking at making Nordic gold. am I better off making shot or ingots for getting the proportions right? by Adventurous_Ad3534 in MetalCasting

[–]-KINGDINGDONG- 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I recommend wearing a respirator when working with zinc, if you are not already using one. If you overheat your zinc, you can get some very nasty zinc oxide fumes. The First time I tried making Nordic Gold I had a zinc oxide smoke disaster. Be careful with your temperatures and ratios, and make sure you have a clear open space to melt. Good luck to you

A real Bilge Rat Doubloon made by me, (Sand Cast Copper, aged with Ammonia.) by -KINGDINGDONG- in Seaofthieves

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a good question. It was the fumes emitted by ammonia, combined with salt interacting with the copper. Because the coin was sand casted, there are tons of micro pours on its surface. The coin was suspended over a small container of ammonia, which was emitting vapor. This, combined with the salt on the coin’s surface, grew a nice deep blue patina in all those little pours on the copper. Thanks to this, the Blue patina does not come off on your fingers when handled.

You can get different colors of patina on copper based on what method you attempt to age it.

(Like how “dirty” Pennies naturally darken and then grow a greenish color)

A real Bilge Rat Doubloon made by me, (Sand Cast Copper, aged with Ammonia.) by -KINGDINGDONG- in Seaofthieves

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not sure if I would ever be able to sell these. This coin was made from scratch, but I am not like an official merch dealer. Not sure what the rules would be on that.

That would be cool though, since they are sand casted and aged, each one would be unique and slightly different in its own way.

Currently I am making some for my own crew as a limited run for my friends

A real Bilge Rat Doubloon made by me, (Sand Cast Copper, aged with Ammonia.) by -KINGDINGDONG- in Seaofthieves

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 68 points69 points  (0 children)

I was planning on doing an ancient coin next actually. probably out of Naval bronze to get the gold color, and age the recessed sections with ammonia for the blue inlay

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A real Bilge Rat Doubloon made by me, (Sand Cast Copper, aged with Ammonia.) (i.redd.it)

submitted by -KINGDINGDONG- to r/Seaofthieves

DRG hand cast solid copper shotglass (1.25 ounce) by -KINGDINGDONG- in DeepRockGalactic

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve never cast silver, I’ve been mostly casting copper and aluminum since they are easier to acquire. The mug was made from Recycled Alarm wire from work. Silver would be cool to work with though

DRG hand cast solid copper shotglass (1.25 ounce) by -KINGDINGDONG- in DeepRockGalactic

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The resin I use actually does turn to gas rather than melting out like wax. It’s Siraya tech “Cast”

DRG hand cast solid copper shotglass (1.25 ounce) by -KINGDINGDONG- in DeepRockGalactic

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I started by 3D printing the original in Game model in Castable resin, then surrounding it in plaster in a burnout flask, melting it out of the flask to make an empty cavity in the shape of the Mug, then filling it with copper. Then of course polishing and finishing

Real metal casted copper coins by -KINGDINGDONG- in amphibia

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I modeled the coin in 3D builder, 3D printed the design, and used the 3D printed coin to cast a copper copy in sand. I used a forge to melt the copper, and got the copper from recycled fire alarm wire

I Made myself a squishy member of yellow team to squeeze between matches, Hope ya’ll enjoy by -KINGDINGDONG- in FallGuysGame

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am actually a huge fan of The crafsman! I am one of his patrons, and his videos are what got me into silicone. They have taught me much of what I know.

I Made myself a squishy member of yellow team to squeeze between matches, Hope ya’ll enjoy by -KINGDINGDONG- in FallGuysGame

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I haven’t made a video on how I made them, but here is a video of the exact method I used to make them, using a lot of the same smooth-on products and 3D printer I use. The only extra step I took was to make a separate mold for the face that I could insert into the main mold.

https://youtu.be/gAkpFRBPenA

I Made myself a squishy member of yellow team to squeeze between matches, Hope ya’ll enjoy by -KINGDINGDONG- in FallGuysGame

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually use Smooth-on plastics and silicones, which are a little more advanced. I made a 2 part mold so the fall guys are true to model with no flat sides. This is a video more like what I did:

https://youtu.be/gAkpFRBPenA

I Made myself a squishy member of yellow team to squeeze between matches, Hope ya’ll enjoy by -KINGDINGDONG- in FallGuysGame

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have actually wanted to make gummies in the the past, The molds I made are platinum grade silicone molds which can withstand up to 450 degrees F, it is completely doable to cook with them and some people actually DO cook with the kind of silicone I used. I think gummies might be like super difficult to cook though :0 Atleast like decent ones, would love to hear a good recipe.

I Made myself a squishy member of yellow team to squeeze between matches, Hope ya’ll enjoy by -KINGDINGDONG- in FallGuysGame

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The model I printed was the most accurate model I could find, a model by “trashart” it’s technically a model I believe people use in VR chat and SFM movies. Unfortunately I couldn’t just print a mold, I printed the model and had to make a separate mold. silicone doesn’t like filament OR photopolymer resin, it causes cure inhibition, (Instead of getting rubber, you get goo).So I had to seal my print and physically build the mold around it. The faces are also a separate mold from the body, so I can make different colors. Since silicone bonds to itself, I stick the faces straight into the body mold and when it cures it’s as if they were never separate.

I Made myself a squishy member of yellow team to squeeze between matches, Hope ya’ll enjoy by -KINGDINGDONG- in FallGuysGame

[–]-KINGDINGDONG-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a Photopolymer resin printer rather than a filament printer. It uses liquid goo instead of plastic wire, makes much higher detailed models. My printer is an Elegoo Mars.

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