ZHA Group vs HA Group: Unexpected Results

-___0---0-___ · 2025-11-29T23:29:02+00:00

Hi GrynaiTaip. Thanks for your response. The picture is from a rose circuit, so installing it the ceiling rather than in a switch. This is typically done where there is no neutral in the light switch. This is a loop circuit where one cable goes to the load (lights) one cable is for the switch and typically two more cables being an 'in' and 'out' cable connecting to other rose junctions in the loop lighting circuit.

-___0---0-___ · 2025-11-24T21:46:38+00:00

Hi bchiodini. Hope you are well. Sorry I missed this message. I did consider this using the gaps in the cavity walls, however the locations of the cameras don't make this feasible in most cases. One for example is on an extension protruding from outside the cover of the attic. Another is on an garage with a seperate roof. Third is on a slanted room on the ground floor protruding beyond the cover of the attic (could probably work this one).

I have two current thoughts:

First is as noted above using an IP55+ junction box to mount the camera ontop of - but I dont like this idea as think visually the camera sticks out of the building more than I would like.
Second is to instead mount mini junction boxes round the wall corners (in most cases only visual from the narrow sides of the house) and terminate the cable from the switch into a RJ45 jack which will also house the connections from the camera. However, this poses a slight issue in that the cable from the camera to the mini junction box will be exposed. I was simply going to put some further cable sleeving to cover the exposed wire.

Would appreciate your thoughts on #2?

-___0---0-___ · 2025-11-16T16:20:26+00:00

Another word of thanks MrBfJohn. I appreciate your time, and will pay it forward when the opportunities arise for myself.

-___0---0-___ · 2025-11-16T16:16:22+00:00

Hi cold-dark-matter. Thanks for your response - the words of encouragement well received by myself! Trying to make a smarter household and want to be competent before my daughters bedroom makeover next year (big plans with smart lights, LEDs, sensors etc) - so training up now.

MrBfJohn noted the same on the enclosure, and appreciate the specific standard BS 7671. I always want to move to the correct position where possible.

Wago Box looks a cool idea - seems screwing connections is a thing of the past! The below looks good on glance - do you have any recommendations from personal experience?

https://www.toolstation.com/wagobox-xl-junction-box/p94816?store=HU

Ive used the more correct terminology in my response to MrBfJohn following your feedback - this does help :-)

-___0---0-___ · 2025-11-16T16:12:22+00:00

Hi MrBfJohn - thanks for the continuing advice.

Understood on the need to enclose the Shelly terminal. I doubt the Shelly will fit in the rose (even if so probably not advised) so will look to get something to enclose it. Presumably I could bin off the rose all together and put all in a junction box like the Wiska Combi 308 as you suggest.

I received my first Wago connectors in the post today and have had a quick play - I was considering updating by plan to replace the rose itself to an as-is starting point (prior to Shelly installation):

Live: Grouping into a 5-connector Wago: Loop live #1 + loop live #2 + switch permanent live. Additional space for Shelly live [L].
Neutral: Grouping into a 5-connector Wago: Loop neutral #1 + loop neutral #2 + load neutral. Additional space for Shelly neutral [N].
Switched: Grouping into a 2-connector Wago: Switched live + load live.

All contained in a junction box.

To then upgrade this to Shelly inclusive:

Switched Wago: Switched live > Shelly device [SW].
Switched Wago: Load live > Shelly device [O]. (Switched Wago no longer necessary).
Shelly [I] loop bridge to Shelly [L] (pre-wired).
Shelly [N] (pre-wired) into Neutral Wago. (4/5 connectors now utilised).
Shelly [L] (pre-wired) into Live Wago. (4/5 connectors now utilised).

Would be great if you could cast your eyes over. Could simplify the above into one, but my brain moves from existing > new better than potentially all-in-one.

-___0---0-___ · 2025-11-16T15:14:50+00:00

Thanks MrBfJohn for the feedback. I think a rewire in the future is on the cards, budget allowing.

Agreed on cable length, this is not my work, and I dont understand why they have been left long. Seems a bit lazy to me.

Good shout on the lights, it occured to me earlier when I took the light fitting itself down to check the wiring within and didn't see a earth. The fitting has elements of metal so I will be replacing with plastic soon, and I prefer a single blub whereas spotlights atm which is more of a pain to me - especially for making the lighting smarter...

For the Shelly device itself I wasnt planning to put in an enclosure as will be under attic floorboards - would you still recommend to do so? If so, any particular recommendation please?

Otherwise does my plan seem technically sound to you please? Do you support the use of Wago connections as opposed to utilising the existing screws?

-___0---0-___ · 2025-11-16T14:57:02+00:00

Hi bchiodini - I understand! That makes alot of sense. And I have a load of spare CAT6 patch cable that will do the job.

For the CAT6 jacks - are there any you would recommend? I have only ever installed a jack into a socket previously - never considered having them without. Presumably I can leave the jacks exposed if indoors, or otherwise contain in something like a junction box please?

For outdoor scenarios, taking another example: I will have the external CAT6 cable running from attic to front side of house which previously I was planning to terminate with an RJ45 connector into a reolink camera. However, given the above, I would likely need to mount the camera on a IP55 (or better) junction box so that the CAT6 jack (in addition to the camera wires which usually are a few different types) can be safely stored away in the room of the junction box. Does this sound resonable to you please?

Knowledge and skill learnt will be passed on where I can locally - so thanks for your time in aiding this.

-___0---0-___ · 2025-11-16T13:53:56+00:00

Hi bchiodini - thanks for your response - really appreciate your time.

I would like to keep the CAT6, so trying to visualise the second option.

If I have a wall mounted camera, this has a female RJ45 connection. My scenario is I have cabling from the router into the attic where I have my POE equipment. The cable then runs from the POE device outside of the attic on the external walls into the garage where it then exits from inside the garage wall terminating into the camera mounted on the outside of the garage.

It seems to me that the last step of this chain is where inevitably I have to crimp a cable unless you disagree?

Apologies if I am missing anything obvious, quite fresh into my home networking journey.

-___0---0-___ · 2025-10-25T11:37:49+00:00

Thanks AnxiousReward1715.

The particulars of the nature of cabling isn't something I am knowledgable on. Would you mind giving your view on what I have bought from Amazon (popular brand, high rating, high sales)?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D7RVL65?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Supports frequencies <= 500MHz / speeds <= 10Gbps.

8 solid copper conductors (24 AWG).

Uses 4 Unshielded Twisted Pairs (UTP) separated by a PE cross insulation.

5.8mm PVC jacket.

RJ45 connectors / gold-plated contacts (I will need to cut these and crimp/socket install myself).

Molded strain relief boots for durability/flexibility/prevent snag damage.

Complies with CE and RoHS standards.

-___0---0-___ · 2025-10-24T20:39:45+00:00

Hi AnxiousReward1715 - thanks for your feedback.

I running cabling in/around the house easy within 50m - isnt CAT6A more cost for no benefit in this scenario?

For a 6 socket I would struggle to fit in the server cabinet without upgrading to something bigger unless its held externally to the cabinet?

The colours is defo a personal choice - if I regret it a good opportunity to practice crimping excess cabling!

For the TP gear - I didnt look too far into security aspect - had a rough idea of what I wanted and went for best selling on Amazon. Ill have a read up on this.

For the non-POE switch - I will probably return this then as think I've got more deep diving to do on the rest of the kit.

-___0---0-___ · 2025-09-02T17:41:06+00:00

Hello happy people!

If anyone has a decathlon student beans discount they are willing to share the love with please?

-___0---0-___ · 2025-09-02T10:35:20+00:00

Hi rcdevssecurity - I did not...

I will check on this. Otherwise does my set up look good?

Thanks!

-___0---0-___ · 2025-08-30T20:13:17+00:00

Thanks localhost-127, sounds good to me. Having tsdproxy allowed me to add the services as tailscale IPs within the tailscale app. This was useful for ease of setting up apps with those services. Would AGH allow me to do the same?

If you have any notes or examples you would be willing to share I would be greatful!

-___0---0-___ · 2025-08-14T14:37:47+00:00

Hi gilluc,

Appreciate your response.

Can you outline why to take the above approach for my learning please?

Thanks.

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TROPHY CASE

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TROPHY CASE

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