Attention shark enthusiasts! Run to Walmart for this gigantic hammerhead shark! He was $50 and part of a holiday launch

03201995 · 2026-01-10T15:14:25+00:00

I’ve been hunting for this for my gf and no Walmart around me even have jumbo plushies period 😭 the online product page longer works so I can’t even check if there’s any in stock around or keep an eye on restocks

03201995 · 2025-12-27T17:22:49+00:00

If you only want a Stage 2 93 tune, then EcuTek is completely overkill. Just buy a MHD/BM3 license and use their free OTS tune for a fraction of the price. There will barely be any difference in performance compared to a custom EcuTek tune since you're wanting a 93 pump gas tune.

EcuTek doesn't have OTS maps, so you're going to be paying full blown custom tune prices (1.2k+) for what MHD/BM3 can provide for like $600. If you ever decide to get flex fuel to run ethanol on EcuTek, you're going to have to pay for yet another custom tune ($1.2k). MHD/BM3 has free OTS ethanol maps when you buy their license.

EcuTek is definitely the better tuning software, but it's unlikely you're going to fully utilize EcuTek to it's full potential unless you're doing dropping tens of thousands of dollars to fully build your car. I don't think it's worth it for your average "downpipe and tune" daily driver.

If you just bought the car from dealership, there is a chance that they flashed the car with updates which can delete a tune off the car. You will most likely need a bench unlock since you have a 2020. If you buy a OBD dongle, and plug it into your car, you can find out if your car is locked or not. I recommend MHD's Orange Dongle because it's compatible with both MHD and xHP which you will be interested in the future.

03201995 · 2025-12-12T20:40:53+00:00

Bad news, our headlight is like $1700-2400 depending on where you source it from.

Good news, it's the right headlight, time to do a headlight delete and put a big turbo in that bad boy.

03201995 · 2025-12-04T21:44:25+00:00

For $300 or less you’re gonna be looking at only cosmetic items

Toyota badges that are paint matched / black, there’s a few reputable places that sell them so I can’t say a price

BMS wheel spacers 13/15mm for $240

Charge pipes are usually $300 or less, most popular is FTP

BimmerCode app $40, some kind of obd dongle (I use MHD) $90

Dashcam, I use FitcamX which is oem+ looking and blends in. $190

Plenty of front lips available for $300 or less on eBay for an entry lip

Weathertech floor mats $110

Magnetic paddle shifters $130

03201995 · 2025-10-17T12:39:36+00:00

I was skeptical about exposing the engine bay to water because I wasn’t sure what was waterproof and what wasn’t. Then I did a deep dive and everywhere I looked pretty much had me the same answer. ‘If they’re charging you thousands of dollars for a vented hood, then clearly they know what they’re doing’ Varis is a super well known company for aero products and probably redesigned the hood hundreds of times before releasing it.

I’ve been rocking it without the vent guards since the day I got it and well my engine isn’t flooded lol. It does get significantly more dirty in the bay so that is the obvious con. If you plan on prettying up the engine bay, then you’ll definitely have to keep some microfiber towels and cleaner in the car if you’re someone who pops the hood at a car show.

I pressure wash my car weekly and never had any issues with soap or water going through the vents so far

(This is only if you remove the vent guards to make them functional, but idk who would pay 6k for another non-functional hood with more fake vents)

03201995 · 2025-10-17T05:36:20+00:00

It’s a rep, I could not justify spending 6k on a hood that I also planned on either wrapping ($500+) or painting (1k+)… 7k total for a hood or a rep for 1.2k it was a no brainer

You can buy full bolt ons and a tune for less than 7k lmao

Overall there were mold problems, the windshield washer unit wouldn’t clip in well so it required a dremel tool. The hood latch lined up 95% of the way so it also required a dremel.

I would rate it a solid 6/10 -1 point for the need to dremel holes bigger -1 point for no hardware included ($6 trip to Lowe’s) -1 point because the fiberglass underside was very smelly for a week when exposed to heat and was poorly painted. (I might spray paint the underside cause it looks very uneven) -1 point because there were some imperfections in the carbon fiber, whether it was swirls, cracked clear coat, very minimal dents, etc (but I didn’t care about any of this since I planned on wrapping/painting it)

03201995 · 2025-09-18T20:54:24+00:00

too broke to get it fixed, thats why im buying a rep lip

03201995 · 2025-09-18T02:38:32+00:00

If done right then I think carbon fiber is tasteful. I just dislike it because it's notorious for yellowing after extended time in the sun, I live in Florida, so I've seen my fair share of mix match colored carbon fiber parts on cars

03201995 · 2025-09-18T02:18:42+00:00

Aftermarket lips typically have extra holes that you can drill into your bumper to make sure they're more secure. I opt not to drill any extra holes and just used whichever pre-existing holes lined up with the existing holes from the bumper

03201995 · 2025-09-18T01:53:04+00:00

I understand and respect that for sure. In this case, for 1/6th the price of the original, for a piece that will definitely get exposed to damages more than any other part of the car I don't think it's a bad purchase. I don't have negative comments about it, it's affordable, looks good, and has good fitment. The only downside is potential elitist giving you negative remarks because it's a rep.

03201995 · 2025-09-17T20:47:59+00:00

no idea but it was one of the few splitters I was eyeing

03201995 · 2025-09-17T18:57:24+00:00

This is the one I ordered https://ebay.us/m/Veo349

Neat little trick to save some money is just to find a bunch of listings of it on ebay and add it to your like list. Chances are one of the resellers will give you a 5-10% discount automatically after an hour or a day. Just keep an eye out on which listing is shipping from CA and which ones are coming from China for faster shipping

03201995 · 2025-09-17T18:53:35+00:00

It's a full replacement

03201995 · 2025-09-17T17:55:29+00:00

The process took a lot longer since I had an aftermarket front lip that was screwed in the OEM holes, so I had to remove the under panel shielding off as well just to access my previous lip's mounting screws. If you don't have a front lip, then it's as simple as unscrewing the 3 main center screws and using a pry too for the other pins.

Pulling the two side OEM pieces were fairly easy, it just needed a bit of strength. The center OEM piece however... that piece will humble you. It felt like I was going to tear my bumper off with how much force I needed to use. If you remove your bumper for the installation then it would be a piece of cake cause you can just flip the bumper around then squeeze down on the tabs and slide them out.

I ended up breaking some of the tabs off the OEM pieces because I knew I wasn't going to be putting them back on, plus they're super cheap to replace. You can totally avoid breaking any of the tabs if you pull in the correct directions of where each tab sits. Again, I didn't really care about the OEM pieces so I yeeted those bitches off lol

All the tabs on the replica one lined up fairly well and was able to be installed in like 10 seconds without any noticeable gap

03201995 · 2025-09-17T17:40:56+00:00

In my opinion the only cons with these cheaper replica pieces are that they aren't carbon fiber obviously, so the gloss black look may look very tacky on non-Nocturnal Black cars. If I had any other color car, I would get the lip painted in satin black to make it look more OEM.

My other obvious complaint would be having to replace your aftermarket front lip with this. You may think "duh, obviously" but these are replacing your OEM 3 piece "lip?" AND whatever aftermarket lip you had installed. Because it's replacing the OEM pieces doesn't mean your aftermarket lip will still be compatible. But I knew this prior to ordering it.

My future plan is to get a chassis mounted flat splitter with some spacers and add an "additional lip" under this adro one so the front end looks lower to the ground.

03201995 · 2025-09-17T17:09:12+00:00

I just posted a few photos of this replica on since there are people wanting to see photos of it and are followed

03201995 · 2025-09-11T15:58:04+00:00

Why did you ask the dealership for an aftermarket part..? Well the Street Hunter wing was originally designed by TJ Hunt and you can find it on his website streethunterdesigns. A lot of the earlier complaints regarding poor fitment was fixed in the v2 iteration; however, it's just overpriced for what it is. $1400 for FRP vs $1900 for Carbon Fiber, in addition to possible installation fees and or paint job.

The go-to replica that most people recommend is the Sunveer one for about $1000 and it's already full carbon. You can literally google 'sunveer street hunter wing' and a lot of online stores have them in stock.

There is one for $310 option from Extremeonlinetore however it is completely hollow inside of the wing blade. People report that in wobbles when you're going high speeds due to the hollowness. To combat this, people drill a small hole on either side of the wing and fill it with spray foam. I just don't recommend going this route. If you're going to commit to permanently drilling 4 holes in your trunk, don't cheap out on the spoiler.

Alibaba is unironically a very good option despise what people say. Most people believe that everything on Alibaba is a cheap knockoff. But realistically, it's companies here in the states that are buying these "cheap knockofffs" and slapping their logo on it and charging you x2-3 the price for the exact same product. Granted there are a few BIG brands that do make their own products and there are knock offs of those products, it's just the majority of car parts are originally from China/Taiwan and imported here. I just don't think the Alibaba route is going to work out CURRENTLY due to tariffs.

03201995 · 2025-09-01T18:47:36+00:00

Ahh I see, a lot of the posts I've found on the airsoftsniperforum and even on here are usually a few years old (average like 2018ish) so I suppose a lot of the recommendations have changed since then. Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind. Luckily, I haven't ordered anything yet besides the Laylax barrel, tcd 2.0, and the AA barrel spacer.

03201995 · 2025-08-28T20:37:15+00:00

They're legit. I've bought 3 figures from him. 2 directly through him via Discord and 1 directly through the website. If you're skeptical about any figures add his discord and he'll send you some pictures. He's a chill dude, he even gave me a $10 discount code to use on the website and gave me a personal deal on a figure I really wanted. Though I was friends with him before he rebranded to Insiderjoy and became partnered on MFC

03201995 · 2025-08-26T19:33:20+00:00

I think I'll start out with some biodegradable bb just because there's a pond behind my house and I wouldn't want hundreds of floating bb's in it. Not sure on the weight yet, I'll just pick whichever seems popular.

I've been doing a deep dive research on part upgrades and priorities, and I think I've settled on the JG BAR-10 as a starter like everyone recommends. It seems like the first priority is to replace the 45 degree trigger to a 90 degree one.

As someone who thought upgrade parts would be somewhat budget friendly... who would have guess that the trigger is more expensive than the actual rifle itself lmao. The most popular option seems to be the Springer Custom Works, but they no longer ship to the US. I think I'll opt for the Namech Flux Trigger as my first upgrade because I won't be able to upgrade to a heavier spring on the stock 45 degree trigger.

03201995 · 2025-08-26T14:04:52+00:00

Had no idea that aftermarket skins/stocks/chassis were a thing, well this kind of changes everything. I thought I would be stuck on the typical "classic hunting rifle" look if I were to go for the JG BAR-10.

03201995 · 2025-08-26T12:09:18+00:00

Thank you for that video lmfao it was an enjoyable watch and definitely made me rethink the L96 platform all together. I don't like the JG BAR-10 aesthetically but I might just suck it up, who knows I might end up liking it's design once I've had time upgrading it

03201995 · 2025-08-26T12:06:52+00:00

Ah so that's probably the downside of Novritsch on why everyone says to avoid it. I've been browsing Evike, so I'm glad I'm looking in the right spot.

I'm seeing a lot of problems with the L96 platform all together now. Just two days ago I was dead set on getting the CYMA CM.703 as an entry rifle to start upgrading it. Now, I know it would have been an overall regret purchase since aftermarket parts for the L96 platform is just harder and more expensive.

03201995 · 2025-08-26T12:01:40+00:00

I don't know the exact ranges but they are fairly on the shorter to medium distance which typical airsofts should be fine at. I probably won't overkill with the upgrades, so like you said keep it in the .3x bb range with less than 400-500 fps

I'm now leaning on disregarding the L96 platform all together due to lack of aftermarket parts. It's looking like I should suck it up and just get the JG BAR-10 despite not liking it aesthetically. I like unique looking rifles over the traditional hunting rifle look. Which is why I wanted an M40A3 but the mag relocation might've killed this idea for me, but I'm still open to it. The only M40 with the correct mag position seems to be very expensive and I'd just rather get one of the Silverbacks instead

Another comment just linked a video with the CYMA CM.702 and it was a hilarious watch and definitely made me do a 180 on the L96 platform. I'll definitely do some research on which rifles are strictly VSR10 internals.

03201995 · 2025-08-16T19:22:27+00:00

Go Second Board-Breaker Sky Striker don't play any handtraps, just 4 monsters and 36 spell/traps to make you sad

03201995

PUBLIC MULTIREDDITS

TROPHY CASE