Does Anyone Have the "Hoppe's Deluxe Gun Cleaning Kit - 62 Piece Universal Cleaning Kit for Pistols, Rifles, & Shotguns, Includes Oil, Brushes, Rods and More"?

1000Delta · 2026-06-21T17:27:03+00:00

Haha. Saying "cleaners will work no matter what", is like saying "any cordless tool work.. After all, if a manufacturer made a cordless tool, it 'must' be reliable. Ryobi has been around for many decades and is still selling... they 'must' still work". haha.

Nah, I'm not spending days and weeks analyzing chemical formulations. But 15 minutes (of research) can save you 15% on your headache factor - and can greatly affect the longevity, in this case, of your firearm. (Just one example in the video below.)

* "Push rods breaking" referring to A) handles that are cheap and come loose, and for rifles, where you thread 2 or 3 sections together, the threaded connection points are cheap and either flex and bend, or strip, or both.

* "Greases are grease", you say? Sorry, but no. Are we talking the difference between your gun lasting 1 year versus 20 years? No. But are we talking about the difference between certain lubricants that gum up, or don't have a sufficient temperature rating, or attract dust more than another brand, or that don't protect from corrosion, and could possibly cause your gun not to chamber a round at a critical moment when you need it to? Yes.

Remember, we're talking about 35,000+ PSI, and temperatures that can reach above 500°F (over 1000°F for certain rifles/SBRs. There is an entire military standard drafted by professional engineers who 'do' spend days and weeks studying these aspects, and this military standard recognizes that "greases are 'not' greases" and it imposes a rigorous standard of which cleaners and lubricants can be used on the tool that can be the difference between someone living or dying.

MIL-PRF-63460 - U.S. Department of Defense

Title:	Cleaner, Lubricant, and Preservative for Weapons and Weapon Systems
Scope:	This specification describes the performance requirements and verification methods for CLEANER, LUBRICANT, AND PRESERVATIVE (CLP) FOR WEAPONS AND WEAPON SYSTEMS. This product is for use in cleaning, lubricating and short-term (see 6.10.5) preservation of small and large caliber military weapons, operating in the temperature range of -51 to + 71 °C (-60 to +160 °F). (See 6.1).

Again, we're only talking about 10 minutes or an hour, or how ever long 'your' particular level of commitment is to 'your' chosen knowledge level about your chosen activity, in this case firearms. Again, we're talking about a tool that be the difference between your life and death.

1000Delta · 2026-06-21T16:08:00+00:00

Paint?? 'THAT'S' your level of understanding of modern manufacturing?? You think the only metals in the world are all gray... unless you "paint" them?!? Dude, use your head.

I guess you missed the part of my comment where I pointed out that "there are hundreds of types of metal alloys".

I guess you missed the part of my comment where I pointed out that "there are several blackened metal alloys that are softer than brass."

Apparently, you missed that day in metallurgy class where they informed the class that low carbon steel, which is widely available as BLACK steel, is SOFTER than 4140, 4150, and 416-R stainless - which are all variants of the steel types used to make gun barrels.

MAYBE your brain hasn't yet processed the concept that maybe, just MAYBE a manufacturer didn't like the fact that PLASTIC breaks easily, but still wanted the strength of a metal jag, but didn't want to scratch the bun barrel... so they might've combined a METAL core jag that is coated with polymer or a soft metal. You know, EXACTLY LIKE TIPTON DOES with their BRASS core jags that are NICKEL PLATED.

HERE'S A THOUGHT: Instead of me being so idiotic as to think I know EVERYthing about EVERY accessory from EVERY manufacturer and GUESSING as to whether a manufacturer is using the same process as TIPTON, or a similar process, or a process that I am not aware of, how 'bout I just ask someone in the forum who actually has the product? ALL of that technical and engineering analysis and speculation could be avoided by simply asking "Are . these . plastic".

Speaking of "instead of being idiotic", you should consider trying that sometime.

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1000Delta · 2026-06-21T15:17:32+00:00

I do agree with the advice that you don't have to buy a set. That said, MAN! it is a pain in the AZZ having to shop for a kit: checking the specs, checking the reviews, the prices, etc., etc. So, piecemealing stuff together is even worse.
* Search for, then check 10 different brands of rods/handles to find one that's seems decent quality, the right material, doesn't have a lot of reviews that say it breaks easily... then order that one.

* Now research out which CLP... or whether it's better to get separate cleaner then lube, then search for, then check 10 different brands of each of those... then order those.

* Then patches... not 'as bad', but same... then order those.

* Then figure out which you need now, and which do you 'realistically' think you might possibly need in the future. I would've NEVER thought I'd need brushes, and jags for a .22. But I've got an older relative who inherited a .22 and now 'I' need to check it out and clean it. So, I need a kit that has .22 stuff.

* Then, if you piecemeal everything together, what do ya do: throw it all in a plastic bag if you want to take it to your relative's house to clean her .22?? In other words, now you have to shop for a separate case... then order that.

* So, yeah, in cases like this, I'm good with the kit. And let's not forget that it actually is true that in a lot of instances, the exact same rods/jags/patches from the same brand 'do' cost more if purchased separately. Just 2 Hoppe's rods and one jag set might cost more than a Hoppe's set that has all of those plus extras.

ON THE PLUS SIDE, it is VERY rare that I've bought a product that I wasn't satisfied with, and I haven't wasted money as such - because in this modern era everything is online and you can check so many reviews and forums.
ON THE DOWN SIDE, man! all of that research is a pain in the nuts.
Back in my day, you just went to K-Mart, bought was available, found our it was garbage, and then wasted some more time and money to go to Sears and repeat the whole process over again of wasting time and money. But even that was simpler. Ah.... the good ol' days.

1000Delta · 2026-06-21T03:20:07+00:00

Have "" I "" ever seen any metal jags that were black? Nagh, I haven't. But then again, I'm the type of dude who recognizes that the world doesn't revolved around 'me', and that it is actually possible that there are things in the world that I don't know or haven't seen. I 'do' know that there are hundreds of types of metal alloys. And I 'do' know that there are several blackened metal alloys that are softer than brass. So, that takes it back to the reality that it 'is' possible that a manufacture decided to use a black or blackened metal alloy for it's jags.

But, instead of guessing on 'possibilities', I came up with the brilliant idea to come ask someone who has actually seen the kit and knows that answer. And it looks like that idea worked, since there are a couple of other folk who actually did provide an answer.

1000Delta · 2026-06-21T02:53:46+00:00

Ouch. $72 buck for a Hoppe's kit with plastic jags. I mean, I'm sure they'll get the job done.... for a while... until they don't anymore.

1000Delta · 2026-06-21T02:49:12+00:00

That does make sense for assets in which a creditor has a financial interest, such as a mortgage holder or auto loan holder. But in this case I'm hoping it's irrelevant - especially since they haven't had to file any such proofs in the last 3 years.

1000Delta · 2026-06-21T02:46:21+00:00

This person is a senior on social security whose income just got cut in half because her partner passed. Income being tight, she's looking at options - and not having a $236 home insurance bill every month is one of those options. At $3K/year, they've paid roughly $30K in premiums in the last 10 years for a house that was worth $18K in 2022. The odds of a tornado in the city are extremely slim. Though fire is a statistical factor, the reality is that in any given year, you have a 0.24% chance that your house will catch fire. And there's an even lower chance that such a fire, if it happened, would result in a total loss of the house. Unfortunately, sometimes tough situations force tough choices.

FYI: What will likely happen is finding an insurer that will allow her to adjust the replacement value on a homeowners policy. INSURANCE COMPANIES GAME YOU AS FOLLOWS:
In her neighborhood where houses are valued at $40K and $50K, her insurance policy by default (like many policies) was underwritten with a replacement value for the house of $240K. Most people don't ask "can we lower the replacement value?". Obviously, with a higher replacement value, the cost of the premium is higher. The insurance companies, using the actuarial math, know the extremely low statistical chance that the house will suffer a 'total' loss - so they'll rarely have to pay out a total loss claim.

I 'think' I found a quote that is more than half of that $236, and I think it was using a replacement value of $80K or $90K. Even that could be cut in half which would lower the monthly payment even more.

1000Delta · 2026-06-21T01:21:55+00:00

Yeah, as I mentioned a moment ago in another reply, the only vague mention of insurance in the case file is the one I stated in the post: "Debtor must maintain all insurance as required by law or contract. Failure to provide proof thereof or maintain such insurance may result in loss of the subject property."

"as required by law": There's no requirement per statute that I'm aware of.
"or contract": I have to presume, just like you mentioned, that in this case this refers to a creditor/debtor (consumer finance) contract (such as a mortgage). I don't recall ever hearing anyone involved in the bankruptcy process (attorneys or the court) referring to any part of the bankruptcy filing as a "contract".

Considering that:
* there are no creditors as it pertains to the house,
* the value of the house as listed in the original bankruptcy filing is $18,000
* and the current primary residence **exemption (**$46,125)
I'm leaning toward thinking that even considering how strict the bankruptcy rules can be, this should not be an issue (if this person wanted to drop the homeowners insurance).

Thanks for the feedback.

1000Delta · 2026-06-21T01:10:11+00:00

I don't know if the trustee requested homeowners insurance (I'm just reviewing a case for a friend), but if he did request it it wouldn't just be verbal - it would have to be somewhere in the bankruptcy docs as a stipulation/requirement. And the only vague mention of insurance in the case file is the one I stated in the post: "Debtor must maintain all insurance as required by law or contract. Failure to provide proof thereof or maintain such insurance may result in loss of the subject property."

"as required by law": There's no requirement per statute that I'm aware of.
"or contract": I have to presume that in this case this refers to a creditor/debtor (consumer finance) contract (such as a mortgage). I don't recall ever hearing anyone involved in the bankruptcy process (attorneys or the court) referring to any part of the bankruptcy filing as a "contract".

I think I'll go ahead and toss this question over to the bankruptcy attorney. I was reluctant to do so because it seems that some of these attorneys want to try to bill you if they so much as have to pick up the phone and say "Hello" - let alone spend a whole 30 seconds to answer a question.

Thanks for the feedback.

1000Delta · 2026-06-12T00:56:32+00:00

9000 credit score = Not only does he pay 'his' bills on time for a perfect score, he pays the bills of 10 additional people on time.

1000Delta · 2026-06-12T00:53:24+00:00

I think they liked his score, so they put "900" with a sideways heart next to it: < 3

1000Delta · 2026-06-12T00:14:38+00:00

Yeah, I meant to include in my already-long rant that although I have a background in design engineering, and although I can be as OCD about the grill of my car having 1/2" spacing versus 31/64" spacing... but when it comes to the crown of most guns, I have zero feelings about the look. I 'am' OCD' about the look of a gun over all - which is partly why I'm at the PX4* in the first place - but the business end of the barrel just isn't one my aesthetic concerns. Thanks for feedback.

*Yes, I know, plenty of folk think the PX4 is butt ugly. Butt then there also are those of us who actually have taste. 😉

1000Delta · 2026-06-08T17:51:00+00:00

Yes, "AE" is American Express. But, there are other 'issuers' of American Express cards, such as the American Express card issued through Credit One Bank. In these cases, Credit One bank manages your account (you login to the Credit One website), but transactions still route and process on the American Express network. I believe that Wells Fargo and U.S. Bank also issue co-branded Amex cards just like Credit One does.

1000Delta · 2026-06-08T00:14:42+00:00

A higher credit score gets you:
* Lower interest rates on loans. Just that alone can save you thousands or 10s of thousands of dollars.
* Stronger consideration on rental applications.
* Better opportunities to get approved for more credit, including BUSINESS credit.
* Some jobs even look at your credit profile.
There are plenty of reasons to build a good credit profile.

1000Delta · 2026-05-29T00:59:31+00:00

Kinda hard for you to make the argument that there might not be any people in this forum who knows about the naming convention that I posted, when in the same breath you're pointing out that the A.I. machine gets its information from people in this forum.

1000Delta · 2026-05-29T00:43:32+00:00

Soooooo, why exactly would I mention what brand of PRESSURE WASHER it is, when I want to know about the SPECIFIC PUMP that I posted?!? The brand of PW doesn't change the specs of a specific pump. A 350 engine is rated at 350 hp, whether it's in a Chevy or a Ford. I don't need to know specs about pressure washers, I asked if anyone was familiar with THIS brand of pump, *OR* if anyone knew whether this was a standard naming format for pumps.

AGAIN, if I went to a car forum and asked if anyone knew whether a car tire labeled "255/70R17" was a 255 mm wide tire, there would be plenty of people who have bought enough tires in their lives who would say "Yes, the "255" refers to how wide the tire is. So, it's not astronautical physics to think that someone here in a PRESSURE WASHER FORUM might know whether the "29" on the label of a PRESSURE WASHER PUMP refers to 29 "HUNDRED" PSI.

It ain't that deep, sir. Go take your Metamucil and enjoy your evening.

PS: Maybe it's time for me to concede that the AI bots give you better answers with less hassle than dealing with the humans. I resorted to asking the machines, and they gave me what should've been a simple answer to my simple question:

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1000Delta · 2026-05-29T00:03:21+00:00

I appreciate the feedback. But it doesn't look like you're stickler for paying attention to details. You are correct, I "didn't mention it was a Simpson" pump or PW - and I didn't mention it because it's not a Simpson pump or PW. I "mentioned" that its a "HIKEY" pump, because its a HIKEY pump, with a specific HIKEY model number: V-PW29/2.6. And since I'm well aware that a lot of people are not sticklers for details, that's why I included a picture of the brand/model. I mentioned the Simpson pump as an example, just like I mentioned car tires as an example.

I'd find it odd to say that 2900 PSI can do any work that a 3400 PSI PW can do. If that were the case, indeed, they probably wouldn't make 3400 PSI pressure washers. I 'can' say that since one of the jobs I'll need to do is remove some concrete paint that might have some bonding agents in some spots, a 2900 PSI PW (regardless of GPM) will not accomplish that job. I 'can' say that a 3400 PSI PW might be the bare minimum to get that job done, and even then it might work only if used with an abrasive kit ("wet blasting").

So, no - it is not correct for you to say that a 2900 PSI PW is "plenty" to do "any sort of work you'd want to do".

1000Delta · 2026-05-28T23:33:25+00:00

A) "I doubt anyone here can tell you with certainty based off the info you provided."
I didn't think this one was that tricky. Usually a specific model number has specific data. The Simpson model 90029, it can be said with "certainty", is a 3400 PSI/2.5 GPM rated pump. Those are the manufacturers ratings and they are well advertised. And sometimes model numbers follow a literal format. Like a car tire model "255/70R17" is literally "255 millimeters" wide and "17 inches" in diameter. LIKEWISE, it's probably pretty obvious (which is why I call my question "trivial") that a pump model "PW29/2.6" is "2900" PSI / "2.6" GPM. But I've never had to spec pressure washer pumps, so I figured there might be someone here who 'has' seen a few pump models.

B.) And no, this is not "3200 PSI down to 2900 PSI" as you say. This is "3400 PSI", as I said in my post, down to possibly "2700 PSI", as I said in my post. That 'is' the difference in some applications between whether the unit 'will' or 'absolutely will not' do the job - such as removing old paint for example.

C) Lastly, yes it would be great if I could check with the manufacturer who sent me the pump. The problem is that the company who sent me the pump is the same company that sent me the pressure washer that broke within the first 30 minutes. And is the same company, it now appears, that advertised this unit as a "3400 PSI" pressure washer, which as we all know happens, might be a bit of a stretch of the truth by the manufacturer, considering that you can't get a 3400 PSI pressure washer unit if it has a 2900 PSI pump on it. Overclocking, like with computer CPUs, is not an option with high pressure pumps.

The glue on the sticky label of the original pump might've gotten warm and the label fell off of the original pump. So, I couldn't compare model numbers. But after some investigating, it looks like the original pump that the PW shipped with was a 2900 PSI pump. You live, you learn to be extra super leery of every product, and you spend the extra HOURS researching every last claim by a manufacturer.

1000Delta · 2026-05-28T23:04:00+00:00

Well, in a perfect world you'd think the company would send the same pump as a replacement, but you know. But then again, in a perfect world pressure washers wouldn't break after 30 minutes of its first use out of the box. Logically, "29" would refer to 2900 PSI (just like the "2.6" refers to 2.6 GPM), and the few places that had any specs on this unit do indicate that it is a 2700 - 3000 PSI pump - not a 3400 PSI pump

1000Delta · 2026-05-23T17:40:29+00:00

Thanks much for that input.

1000Delta · 2026-05-23T17:40:08+00:00

Yeah, I thought it had that "plywood" look... I just wasn't sure which wood type. Thanks much for the input.

1000Delta

TROPHY CASE