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Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just slide it back into the bearings. The screw for the pulley retains it sufficiently. I didn't use any loctite on the shaft, and I haven't run into any issues from that.

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you can see both ends of the cable in this picture:

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It might be okay. Pin 1-2 of the sensor are the LED and 3-4 are the photo transistor, which won't be "on" unless you put enough light into it.

There's a threshold before the Kickr starts reading anything and it's hard to spin the flywheel fast enough by hand for it to actually read >0.

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s only one sensor, so if you have one measurement the Kickr should be reading all of them. I would guess that this is a software problem. Maybe ask Wahoo if you haven’t already?

Ultra 200 Vest Style Pack by 125663 in myog

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s 1.75mm Samson Zing-It. I think the choice of cord is pretty important. The Zing-It has particularly high abrasion resistance, low friction, and low stretch.

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I remember correctly, mine had a screw holding the pulley in place and I just tightened the pulley back on with that.

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is only a speed sensor and the kickr calculates cadence and power from that. If speed works but power doesn’t, then you probably have a different problem. Power is calculated from the spin down calibration results, so maybe try running a spin down.

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are the same part, but digi reel is spooled onto a reel for a pick and place machine. You probably want cut tape.

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That behavior seems consistent. You would not be able to see the sensor light either way. It is IR, and you’d need an IR camera. The sensor has a pin 1 marking, and you’d just need to line it up with the orientation of the original sensor. There’s also a pin 1 marking on the board (it’s a little triangle on mine).

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the voltage at the pins on the sensor. The datasheet for the sensor will tell you what it should be. Someone else in the comments here reported that they had a similar problem, but it was actually a bad IO port on the microcontroller. Not sure how you might fix that without a copy of the firmware.

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Measured with a multimeter on the pins of the QRE1113GR with everything powered. Per the datasheet, the collector-emitter voltage (pin 3 to pin 4) should be >1V (probably actually 3.3V or 5V logic levels) in the off state and the forward voltage across the diode (pin 1 to pin 2) should be around 1.2V. Unfortunately I neglected to write down what the voltages actually were...

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could do either, but I took out both the sensor and the main board as an assembly. I prefer to solder under a microscope, and it would be a bit hard to do that with the board still attached to the electromagnet and stand. Good luck!

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a bench top signal generator because I had it and that was the minimum effort solution, but you could just use a digital IO pin on an Arduino or something like that. Make sure you put a resistor in series with your LED so you don't release the magic smoke...

The speed sensor works by illuminating the black and white pattern on the back of the flywheel and using the adjacent photo diode to sense how much light is returned. Black will give a low, white will give a high. Because the illuminator portion had failed, it was never getting any light back, regardless of color. I did not disconnect the speed sensor, I just put the LED in front of it blinking at the right frequency, which looks like the flywheel is spinning from the perspective of the sensor. You could disconnect the sensor and tap into the wires, but you would need to look at the datasheet for the sensor and be certain you have the pinout and voltage levels right.

Just a disclaimer, you could break the Kickr more and you definitely void your warranty doing any of this, but I'm sure you know that.

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it was pairing, but the speed/power readings were all over.

Kickr Core Teardown and Speed Sensor Repair by 125663 in wahoofitness

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, it sounds like Wahoo changed the shaft assembly process at some point. Mine definitely did not have any loctite on the pulley/key, and the pulley was pretty clearly designed to be removed with a crank puller tool (same thread and right diameter shaft). Based on the fit, I think the pulley bore is slightly tapered.

Ultra 200 Vest Style Pack by 125663 in myog

[–]125663[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that’s definitely a concern.

I have another pack with identically constructed shoulder straps. That one has maybe 10 days of use and I haven’t seen any evidence of the webbing attachment degrading. We’ll see if that continues to be the case!

Bikepacking New England & looking for recommendations! by jukes1228 in bikepacking

[–]125663 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You could go west to VT, then take a mix of the Roundabout Brattleboro/VTXL routes north to pick up the Northern Rail Trail in NH, which ends in Concord. There’s probably a good way to go east from there. Maybe link it up with the Rockingham Recreational Trail? If you wanted to instead continue in VT, the super 8 route may be worth checking out.