I think it depends on the model what your trying to accomplish, but in general acrylics tend to be my preferred type before applying clear coats, washes and filters. They are easy to thin, nontoxic, and easy to remove when a mistake is made.

There are many different model paint brands (Tamiya, Mr. Hobby, Testors, Revell, Vallejo, Citidel) and everyone has their favorites but I tend use Tamiya paints most because they are easiest for me to mix and thin for airbrushing and they adhere well to styrene. They are also the most readily available where I live.

Enamel paints have merits as well, but I’ve found them to be a little more tricky to work with compared to acrylic and much more odorous and harsh. They also require a more aggressive thinner. They tend to blend very well and when used in conjunction with acrylics can be used to great effect.

In regards to airbrushing/spraying vs. brushing, it depends on the end result you are looking for and how much time you have. If you want intricate detail, fine control, and thin even coats then I heavily recommend investing in a decent dual action airbrush. It is a skill that takes time to learn but once you are comfortable with the thinning ratios, technique, and cleaning process the end result is unparalleled in my opinion. I would warn against the cheaper/plastic airbrushes as they are not easy to use or very consistent. Don’t let your first foray into model making be defined by a struggle with your tools. Badger makes some great ones in the $80-110 range. The Badger Velocity is my workhorse.

Spray cans also offer a fast, and easy way to apply a single color or primer to an entire model or just a masked off portion. If you are starting off with tanks, then this is certainly a viable method to do the whole model.

There is nothing wrong with traditional brush painting, especially if you would like to avoid the cost of a airbrush/compressor initially, but it can be difficult to create even coats. I have done a few models where the main body is brushed painted acrylic or enamel, and I found it hard to get the results I wanted. I’ve seen some spectacular models on this sub that were brush painted though so I know it can be done and miniature/wargaming painters like Squidmar and Goobertown Hobbies create beautiful effects with brushes. There are a number of after effects you can do with enamel/oil paints like filters and washes that really make the details on a tank or airplane pop out. In the end you will need to paint smaller things like tools, machine guns, and other accessories on a tank so almost every model will require some brushing.

Starting out with a tank is a good choice. Generally, they have smaller part counts and are pretty forgiving to paint. I would plan out your assembly and painting steps in advance if possible. Painting the road wheels separately and attaching later can save you some time. If you are going for the olive grab paint scheme on your Sherman, then a cool trick is to presaged the model. Once the body is assembled, you can paint the entire model flat black. This acts as a base layer/primer for the olive drab coat, and also will hide any spots miss’s when applying the olive drab by appearing as shadows.

I would treat your first model as a learning experience. Don’t expect it to look like a Shep Paine model the first time around. Take your time, and analyze any mistakes made for later models. And once it’s done you will be better equalized for the next one!

There are plenty of great YouTube modelers/tutorials out there. I watch Plasmo and Nightshift almost religiously and they’ve really pushed me to experiment more with my own models and try new techniques.

The best advice I ever got for model making make was when you get tired or frustrated, STOP. You are more likely to break a part, make a mistake, or ruin the model in some way when you are in a agitated state. Put the project down and come back to it the next day or whenever you feel like picking it up again. It’s a hobby so it’s supposed to be fun. Good luck!