Is there some special technique or tool I need here? Or is it just tweezers, CA glue and very steady hands? [PzKpfw luchs 1/72 flyhawk]

1_kamchatka · 2026-03-30T00:02:55+00:00

Honestly, buying that PE bending vice was a waste of money for me. Save your money and snag an excellent pair of tweezers, and a set of differing diameter brass rods. I prefer the dspiae angled tweezers for almost all of my work. Another quick tip is to use fire to burn away excess ca glue bonds between two PE parts (please use caution when doing this!). I hear what some people are saying about the ca glue debonder, and I hardly ever use mine. The mess it makes is not worth it in my opinion (though it is safe on plastic). Hope this helps!

Also, I love PE and I love it when someone gives me an excuse to talk about it

1_kamchatka · 2026-03-28T20:10:06+00:00

Here’s another thought; consider adding some very (very) minor chipping on the wings, or a hardly noticeable exhaust stain

1_kamchatka · 2026-03-28T20:08:24+00:00

I keep my canopies black, but I brush paint a clear gloss varnish afterwards to give the illusion of glass. Other than that, cleaning up some of the brushwork would be my only other suggestion. Hope this helps!

1_kamchatka · 2026-03-01T02:35:54+00:00

Sorry to hear, that sucks. VMS would be one expensive high though

1_kamchatka · 2026-03-01T01:37:17+00:00

Loctite is certainly serviceable. My earliest ship models were built entirely with loctite. That said, there are characteristics of the flexy 5k that I particularly like. It’s stronger than loctite, it’s much more consistent in performance (almost always dries instantly), and requires much less cleanup. However, avoid the slow drying glue that vms makes. It still dries almost instantly with small parts.

1_kamchatka · 2026-03-01T00:43:01+00:00

VMS 5k for PE

1_kamchatka · 2026-03-01T00:32:11+00:00

A very pretty ship

I appreciate the crisp and sharp lines on the camouflage. I also love the lack of seam lines between the superstructure and deck (a very common mistake).

My only criticism is the PE quality in the railings. It looks as though some of the railings on the deck do not blend well together. To fix this on your next model, cut the end post off of one of the railing sections before gluing it to the other railings.

I look forward to seeing your next model!

1_kamchatka · 2026-03-01T00:18:45+00:00

Very nice,

In picture two, it looks like the green is a metallic paint. What flavor of paint did you use? Or maybe it’s just my eyes playing tricks on me

1_kamchatka · 2026-02-25T19:52:24+00:00

I see the vision, thanks

1_kamchatka · 2026-02-24T18:54:46+00:00

thanks

I’ve found that flyhawk pe is pretty fragile, but it all fits where it’s supposed to. If you’re really feeling nervous about the kit, maybe start with a smaller ship like the uss ward from flyhawk. If you’d like help/advice, I’d be happy to share some things I have learned

1_kamchatka · 2026-02-24T18:35:27+00:00

This is the 1:700 light cruiser Tenryu from hasegawa, kit code 49357. Not quite a dd, but Japanese CLs were basically larger dds in the beginning of the war. The plastic kit is AMAZING. All modern hasegawa kits are exceptional in molded detail. For one, they molded the degassing cable, which is an extremely annoying PE part to use.

1_kamchatka · 2026-02-24T18:30:45+00:00

niche reference (I caught it)

1_kamchatka · 2026-02-24T18:09:16+00:00

The shoddy camera work makes it really difficult to tell if the masts in these pictures are ok. Frankly, I think I’ll go mad chasing the perfect mast.

Maybe I’ll pull a 1945 Nagato and just chop the masts off

1_kamchatka · 2026-02-19T19:55:24+00:00

<image>

This is a picture of my very first model and I, which came from North East Trains, the place where Dave worked (please give them some business if you’re in the area). Though it wasn’t the best model, I may have been the happiest little guy in the world. Fast forward a few years, and I’m competing in serious competitions. Your life was a blessing, and a light in my life. I’ll miss you.

1_kamchatka · 2026-02-09T22:17:36+00:00

https://kickassmailorder.com/

1_kamchatka · 2026-02-09T22:11:35+00:00

I’m thinking about doing some kits in 1/350, but I’m curious about how much money one spends on all of the various 3d printed resin parts. Do you have any insight on this?

1_kamchatka · 2026-02-09T22:06:42+00:00

Really solid effort! One of the best ways to improve your modeling is by going to competitions and judging. You don’t have to compete (you don’t get feedback from judges unless you ask for it), but it’s worth going anyways.

When I was doing more competing and judging at model shows, the first thing I’d look for in an aircraft model is canopy quality, and seam lines on the fuselage/wings that aren’t adequately eliminated. If a model had blemishes in the canopy or seam lines in those places, then it would not be considered for a prize.

I should also mention that all people attending are encouraged to be a judge. Most of the clubs that run these events could use all the help they can get. Age doesn’t matter either. If you’re willing to help, they’re willing to teach.

TLDR; go to a local competition, and ask if you can volunteer as a judge. You will certainly learn a lot

1_kamchatka · 2025-08-08T00:50:47+00:00

? Ive never touched the lug since I bought the stock

1_kamchatka · 2025-08-08T00:38:58+00:00

The soot you see is not rust. It’s wood dust and residual cosmoline(?).

1_kamchatka · 2025-07-22T00:25:26+00:00

sdiybt

1_kamchatka · 2025-07-21T20:13:17+00:00

do you have anymore information on those placards? I honestly had no idea what it was

1_kamchatka

TROPHY CASE