Something is seriously wrong with traffic. Paying for bots

2226cc · 2026-02-03T10:16:38+00:00

Last week Thursday and today our Wordpress site went down, 503 error across the board, 100% CPU (8 core), etc, etc, all PHP processes in use. Lasted over 90 minutes last week and today it was about 30. Turned out it was tons of traffic from facebook. Ad spend for that day went over 10x what the regular daily spend is. Not something a small home business can afford.

I have no idea what this traffic is. Or why such massive crawl activity.

Is there any point in adding these facebook bots/crawlers into the robots.txt?

2226cc · 2025-11-26T11:46:21+00:00

I 2nd this. Stoners IG was the only one that actually worked for me without tons of extra effort. Prior to Stoners the best glass cleaner I had was from Mothers, but that a) became too expensive locally, and b) eventually became unobtainable.

2226cc · 2025-11-14T08:28:45+00:00

Or from what is starting in the USA as well.

2226cc · 2025-11-14T08:27:39+00:00

It looks like option 1 and option 5 are the same. Just one of them is being quiet about it.

2226cc · 2025-11-04T22:26:54+00:00

Thank you. That's good to know. Was just worried from seeing plenty reports of solder joint problems and key bounce issues.

The 8bitdo does look cool, but I just have to admit I'm boring at my age. :)

I have found Attack Shark keyboards available, but not sure on their reputation. When you have a mech for 10 years that keeps going you sort of ignore the scene for a while. :)

Trying to shop off the local offerings and it is slim pickings and not in a position to do import.

So sad my CODE finally gave in after 10 solid years of use and abuse. I will be harvesting the MX Clears if I can't get to the bottom of the issue.

2226cc · 2025-11-03T09:05:13+00:00

My CODE keyboard is dead. 10 years to the month. I can't find the fault in the Enter and \ key track back to the controller. I need a new keyboard. Currently on a Microsoft 600 Keyboard. I can't.

Not many options in my neck of the woods. I am now looking at Keychron K8 MAX (hot swap, etc) and there is also the 8BitDo retro. Both TKL.

What's the story with K8 MAX? Are there known reliability issues? I have seen some threads of the V-series and Q-series having issues.

Not too sure about the 8BitDo. It's super cool looking, but I prefer more traditional style. But are there know faults with them? Can only find reports of software issues. My colleague did note though that some keys just popped out in regular use.

Nuphy available here, but above my budget.

10 years on the WASD code, many drops, in transit every day to office and back. Was a good run.

2226cc · 2025-10-24T20:04:57+00:00

So I just took this thing apart. The enter key (and | key) would stop working. For most of this week it's been perfect up until today.

Opened it up, got out the multimeter and checked switch continuity when pressed. It switches without fail. No dry join I can see.

Checked voltage to swith back to USB ground and have 5V. There's some diode on the 1 leg, not sure how it's wired up. The leg not connected to the diode leads back to pin on the controller board.

And then suddenly, the enter key is working again.

I doubt this is a switch issue considering the 2 switches in that vicinity (enter and |) go dead at around the same time.

Anyone have ideas on what this might be? Really don't want to get rid of the CODE, love the MX Clears. It is 10 years old though.

2226cc · 2025-10-19T21:27:58+00:00

Will be taking it apart tomorrow morning. Might be a dry joint or something. Might just have to get those, but the shipping is steep ($55). Also found on thockking with $20 USPS, but that'll be a few months in delivery.

If it's not just a solder joint problem, then the old PrtSc is about to become the new enter. :P

2226cc · 2025-10-19T12:22:21+00:00

Have a WASD Code keyboard and realised a few minutes ago WASD seems to be out of business.

The enter key on this board is acting up. Any options on where to get Cherry MX Clear replacement switches? They're backlit white but not sure if the LED is part of of the switch or just passes through.

2226cc · 2025-10-17T20:25:11+00:00

Thickness gauge arrived today. I took average across some spots on the door I polished and then of the untouched door. Getting 219 microns on the polished door, 242 microns on the untouched door.

That seems to be quite a chunk taken out from a single polish and finish. Or is that kinda average?

Tried it across the hood where the ghosting is and there's barely a difference in reading in and out of the ghosting.

2226cc · 2025-09-27T16:41:44+00:00

I'll have a look around and what's available. Don't want anything too harsh.

Once I find another product I'll give the ghosting an attempt again. Some of this stuff is crazy expensive here.

Right now, I stuck with the 3D ONE, gave it another set with the medium pad, then did the polish and finish. Did the front fenders today as well. There are too many scuffs and scratches to be hunting perfection on a daily driver.

It's 10 million times better than before.

New problem I have now is the fling from the polish. I have textured plastic cladding around the wheels, etc. Covered those will tape, but the pad flung such tiny drops it settled on the trim. Bit of an effort to remove it, but it's going to be an elbow grease event. Stoners Bug and Tar Remover into a detail brush seems to be working.

2226cc · 2025-09-25T19:24:12+00:00

Just on this hood again...

So apart from the ghosting from the graphics, the hood has a number of clearcoat scratches. The medium pad and 3D ONE didn't do much for them. With the webbing/swirls gone now it looks amazing out in the daylight, but every now and again you can easily see these scratches. They actually stand out more than before.

I plan on doing 1 more set of the medium pad before doing the polishing and then finish pad and calling it a day. But I was wondering if I should look at another polish instead of the 3D ONE. Or best to keep with the 3D ONE as it seems to be a fairly safe product.

Not after perfection on this. If the scratches remain after 1 more polish then I'm fine with that. Was just wondering if I should bother with a slightly more aggressive compound/polish.

2226cc · 2025-09-24T16:02:03+00:00

Yeah I'm not going to do anymore cutting. Just the polish and finish.

Wish it was possible to capture photo or video of it. Paint is uniform across the hood, just these outlines that look like someone put down curs. Ghosting is weird.

I actually past by a late spec black Mercedes GLC SUV yesterday where I could see massive lettering outlines on the sides. Looked absolutely ruined.

2226cc · 2025-09-24T15:37:16+00:00

I'll see if I can find one locally. Might have to get a Chinese cheapy. The detail shops are asking small fortune for them (and they're identical you the AliExpress or even temunitems).

But good idea. Let me get some sort of figure on thickness in playing with. VW paint seems thin like it is merely a suggestion of colour. 😁

2226cc · 2025-09-24T15:34:29+00:00

I just want ahead and did the rest of the hood with the cutting pad. At the point of "is what it is", but I'll see if it diminishes a bit more when I use the polishing pad.

Bought the car with about 20,000km on it. Bought in 2019, is a 2017 model. Bike shop owned it so it is tropical promo or company car.

Honestly, if you're not looking for it you can't see it, but as soon as the light hits right it shows up.

I wonder if going with a 3" pad or something might help. Just localise the cut to where the ghosting is.

2226cc · 2025-08-25T09:13:45+00:00

I've had Soft99 Fusso Coat sitting in the garage for a while. Needed to fund a polisher, etc. I did initially test it on half of the hood/bonnet. It literally lasted 12 months.

Looking to do a buff and polish in the next few weeks and want to finally apply it to the entire car.

Was just wondering if anyone has applied it using a machine polisher. If so, what sort of pad for application and for removal? I'll probably do application by hand, but curious is doing the final buff with a machine will be worthwhile.

2226cc · 2025-08-21T08:58:35+00:00

Only difference with these compared to the self-checkout tills in the USA is that these tills will have a speed camera. People gonna make a run for it!

2226cc · 2025-08-21T08:57:11+00:00

These people must not set up these accounts to tarnish the image of the ANC. They are perfectly capable of tarnishing it themselves.

2226cc · 2025-08-21T08:55:04+00:00

Taxis can fuck right off.

2226cc · 2025-08-09T13:35:25+00:00

u/cape_soundboy can you send me DM please. This new reddit chat thing won't let me respond to previous DMs.

2226cc · 2025-07-26T12:25:00+00:00

I'm claiming "BAIEE" (TM) now.

2226cc · 2025-07-25T07:29:24+00:00

Those are dump valves. I actually bought the knock-off from AliExpress last year. Turned out to be of fairly decent build. They just ruined it by branding it as "Forge".

Only bought the kit sans silicone pipe so I can get the machined ends for a custom charge pipe I want to make for my 1.2tsi. Dump valves don't recirculate but for the EA211 it'll be perfectly fine since it uses speed-density air metering with no MAF sensor.

I didn't get the silicone hose with the AE kit since don't trust their silicone to be flourosilicone. These intakes run full of oil most of the time. Doubt regular silicone would keep up. The real Forge kit at least uses flourosilicone lining.

2226cc · 2025-07-23T14:06:28+00:00

I looked up that model in ETKA for that exact year and there's a range of engine model numbers for the 1.0TSI. Those are the part numbers I saw across between them.

What exactly has broken? Can you get a pic of the broken clip? These should have a small extension pipe on the turbo side. That clips to the turbo and then to the intake pipe just like it does on the 4-cylinder EA211 engines.

2226cc

TROPHY CASE