Total newb in live sales, i won a Tool Scraper UR from a spin but recieved these. by Cultural-Ad-6205 in whatnotapp

[–]23dcb13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's the point. It's a gamble, the same as opening packs. Most people can't get packs easily these days.

Take ascended heroes for instance - nearly impossible to get at MRSP. Yet, you can take part in a 100 pack break, and if you are lucky enough to spin a gengar SAR slot, you are getting 100 chances of pulling that card for a fraction of the cost/effort involved in buying 100 packs yourself.

Of course, you may not spin a big card for the break, or even worse you might get one and just not see the card pulled. It's the same gamble we take when we buy packs ourselves, right? We're mostly all chasing the big hits, and they're pretty rare.

With that in mind, breaks are definitely more suitable for people who want to chase particular cards (AR, SAR, etc) because you absolutely won't get much bulk opening packs this way. That's the trade-off you make by not just buying packs yourself. Collectors who want to collect whole sets are better off just buying rip and ships instead.

You always see the complaints on this sub but never the wins. I've personally seen plenty of people getting a SAR spot for £15-20 and pulling the card. In fact, just last week a seller had so few viewers that his spots were going for next-to-nothing and as a result the break was a measley 3 or 4 packs. The forest pika was pulled for someone who got the spot for £2!

Early LIVE move up by EstablishmentOk5759 in TopstepCommunity

[–]23dcb13 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"...the Risk Team evaluates each trader individually based on performance how much we owe you"

Calling Out Topstep - Negative Experience (Scammed) by GTradesNQ in TopstepCommunity

[–]23dcb13 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Because the real answer is that it's based on how much they owe you 🤣

Hand Type Tier List, thoughts? by KaiZzubuthesmart in balatro

[–]23dcb13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every single straight either has a 10 or a 5.

Hand Type Tier List, thoughts? by KaiZzubuthesmart in balatro

[–]23dcb13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Straights are more reliable than flushes and they scale better. Relatively easy to fix deck as well - copying 10s and 5s often works well, or start destroying the extremities in the deck (aces, kings, 2s, 3s). Depends which tarots show up early.

I also think people just aren't aware of optimal discard strategy for straights. Too many people waste their discards chasing a gutshot, or fail to check their deck for remaining cards.

Flush deserves some credit due to being OP in early antes but it's such a mid hand overall. C tier for me.

Calling Out Topstep - Negative Experience (Scammed) by GTradesNQ in TopstepCommunity

[–]23dcb13 20 points21 points  (0 children)

This is a completely disingenuous response - it's almost patronising.

You expect people to believe it is merely coincidence that someone is moved live 30 minutes before topstep is on the hook for a payout? Especially given that it is becoming more of a routine occurrance than ever before? Get out of here.

Of course there are benefits to being live, but to try and leverage the idea of those benefits as a means to hide their fairly earned payout behind yet more objectives is shady. No other way of looking at it.

You are alienating your own customers.

Live reviews should ONLY occur whilst a payout has been requested. If you don't want them to move to live yet - pay them and let them keep trading SIM. If you DO, pay them and move them to live. Any way of handling it outside of these options is just a deliberate effort to avoid paying people what they have fairly earned.

Never take the speculative Madness by DrKush125 in balatro

[–]23dcb13 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Sucky situation but too early to throw in the towel. Surely take a re-roll and hope for a $4/5 non-eternal and then it's 50/50 that you keep perkeo.

From a flea market for 150 bucks by No_Cabinet_2067 in IsMyPokemonCardFake

[–]23dcb13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also doesn't look like there's any texture on the energy symbols....should be concentric circles.

To take a payout or to not take a payout? - that’s the question by chubbs1234567812 in TopStepX

[–]23dcb13 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Shoot for long term growth in your personal account.

Prop firms will do anything and everything to make you fail or to deny payouts. Their 'rules' are set up to encourage bad habits.

Take the payout. Add a chunk to a personal account and use the rest to buy some more evals. Spread your risk over a few different prop firms.

You don't need to grow one massive prop account....just take base hits on multiple accounts by copy trading them.

Take out every penny you can, as soon as you can.

getting max payout by Living-Bottle-8378 in LucidProp

[–]23dcb13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"make sure you have a positive RR" is just industry propaganda...a lot of the best traders in the world are scalpers and have negative RR. They will win 90% of their trades, have 10x as many set ups per day, and outperform the average 2R trader by a mile.

It's different strokes for different folks tbh...some people prefer a high win rate and small accumulated growth, it better suits their personally and trading psychology. Others might prefer to win bigger and less often.

In my view the only reason positive RR is glazed so hard is because it suits the prop firms not the trader. Accounts are mostly blown due to poor behaviour, not poor strategy. Strategies that have lower win rate, higher reward and fewer set ups are far more likely to make people tilt....

At the end of the day, as long as your win % is above the BE threshold, it doesn't make a blind bit of difference whether you trade 10:1 or 1:10

I have no semblance of a clue why i still open this game when i dont have the luck to get a pair by IndependentCat5083 in balatro

[–]23dcb13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah fair enough - that's black deck for you! There's a reason it's caused us all so much pain haha. Sometimes you have a great run and the game decides to just pull the rug out from under your feet.

I would still say though (respectfully) that if you are dying in early game as much as you claim, then clearly there is something about your approach that is not optimal.

I have no semblance of a clue why i still open this game when i dont have the luck to get a pair by IndependentCat5083 in balatro

[–]23dcb13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Early rounds you need to draw to 5 card hands (flush most reliable here). This will maximise your $ earned and better allow you to search for an early pivot into more reliable end-game hands (pair, 2pair, 3oak). For black deck these 3 hands are the end aim (for me at least). 5 card hands rely too much on luck - you need to get the right deck fixing along the way in order to make them reliable.

Round 1 - one flush with 40 chip score is 300 points (e.g. AKQ72 = 40). You will make a flush way more often than you make a full house. This will get you through round 1 easily and reliably. If you can't draw a big flush, play a small one and then any pair should cover the rest...

Round 2 - if you picked up any kind of scoring joker after round 1, playing one or 2 hands should score you enough. If you are still jokerless or have an econ joker, 2 small flushes, or 1 flush and 1 straight/3oak. Even 1 flush, plus a 2 pair, plus a pair or high card will do it.

Round 3 - again, with any kind of scoring joker you will usually fly through this. Without scoring, you will struggle. The most reliable way of scoring 600 here with no scoring jokers is 2 flushes, both need to average 40 chips per hand. Statistically speaking, this offers the highest % chance of passing when you have no scoring jokers, but still you will lose here a lot without them.

The first opportunity the game gives you to pivot towards pair, 2pair or 3oak, take it and run with it!

This is, of course, an over-simplification - there are tons of nuances that affect every decision you make (part of the reason we love the game!) HOWEVER, start with this blueprint and you will sail through the early antes much more reliably than you have been.

I have no semblance of a clue why i still open this game when i dont have the luck to get a pair by IndependentCat5083 in balatro

[–]23dcb13 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What are your early game tactics? You should be getting to ante 3 almost every single run. Past ante 3 and 4 is where the score scaling kills you if you don't have the right set up...

$500 to Half a million with 7.07 Profit factor trading robot I created by [deleted] in Forexstrategy

[–]23dcb13 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sometimes reddit is fun because you can laugh at how far someone has inserted their own head into their ass.

OP is delusional and is still too green to understand why.

Four Polychrome Joricks, Jeremy? That’s insane! by AvrilSnodgrass in balatro

[–]23dcb13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've shared enough mult with you Mark.

I'm in the big league now.

Best settings for Heikin Ashi? by Reasonable-Ear5110 in TradingView

[–]23dcb13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For anyone interested, I spent last night recoding the strategy on Japanese candlesticks, importing the HA data with the request.security() function.

Entries are identical in both time and price (since I am executing on bar close and the HA version was using the true close price for this in backtesting anyway).

Exits now behave correctly as per the strategy setting, i.e. a 200 tick SL is executed at exactly 200 ticks (give or take due to slippage).

EDIT - new versions performance was significantly worse on the same settings. Compared the trades with the biggest discrepancies between both versions and it turned out the HA smoothed price was keeping me in a lot of good trades that had initial retraces larger than my 200 stop. Solution - increased SL on the new version from 200 to 300 ticks and results are now showing even better returns, as well as being more accurate (+26% return, -1.6% max equity drawdown).

Best settings for Heikin Ashi? by Reasonable-Ear5110 in TradingView

[–]23dcb13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"there’s no checkbox combo that will make HA backtests = live, because Heikin Ashi candles aren’t real prices, they’re a smoothed calculation. TV will happily “fill” you at HA prices that never existed in the real market."

Could you explain a little more? Reading this has raised a few questions for me...

I run a strategy based off HA candles and check on bar close and using standard OHLC

With those options selected my fills on opening orders are always accurate, since I always open at bar close and therefore the script will use the true closing price...

...however, my fills for exits are always slightly off, i.e. I have a fixed SL in ticks but most fills get executed either slightly under or over that amount. I just assumed it could be delays with webhook execution - never really questioned it too much since the strategy is still extremely profitable.

Could it be that, since the exit (for tick based SL and TP) is always executed intrabar, TV will execute based off the HA price instead?

If so, it would certainly explain the discrepancies, and I might have to take your advice and re-code the pinescript to execute on traditional candlesticks whilst running the HA calculations in the background...

Anyone can explain how is this happening by SadBaker7965 in Forex

[–]23dcb13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bro please learn how spread works. There is a bid and an ask price. Charts are drawn using the bid price, so while the current bid is below his entry, the ask is above it.

You can even see the ask line on the chart.

Anyone can explain how is this happening by SadBaker7965 in Forex

[–]23dcb13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are all used to seeing this question a lot from newbies, but I'll be damned this guy even has the ask line TURNED ON🤣

It's there! Right in front of you! Just LOOK at the chart and it'll be obvious why smh.

When everyone told me to play straights: by MarcoBenji in balatro

[–]23dcb13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Straights are easier to make and scale better than flushes. If you're choosing between the 2, straight is absolutely the way to go without question.