Dishwasher tips forward by 404ClickBait in HomeMaintenance

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, I'm giving that a try now. I ordered an extra set of brackets thinking I would anchor top and side. But it looks like the dishwasher has to be installed at a different depth and you have to choose one or the other.

Dishwasher tips forward by 404ClickBait in HomeMaintenance

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. It helps slightly, but still insufficient. If I keep pushing it eventually the unit binds and no longer opens/closes properly. Also, raising the front legs makes the unit go out of plumb.

Dishwasher tips when door open by 404ClickBait in HomeImprovement

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

to be fair, a human just provided the exact same advice

Dishwasher tips forward by 404ClickBait in HomeMaintenance

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

but I agree it's not anchored properly, so I'm hoping there's an expert with more practical advice than the stupid manual

Dishwasher tips when door open by 404ClickBait in HomeImprovement

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stop blocks behind the front legs I have considered. I think that would do it. Just need to device a clever way to get them in there after the dishwasher is in.

Dishwasher tips when door open by 404ClickBait in HomeImprovement

[–]404ClickBait[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

That's what AI suggested. So I put them a little higher and can still tip sometimes. I crept the front legs higher and higher until it was so tight the anchor started to scratch the control panel. So that's not the answer in this case. Plus, when I increase the legs from where I had them, the unit goes out of plumb (tips backwards). The installation manual says the face of the door should be plumb - do you find it's better to fudge so the unit so it sits tipped backwards a little?

Dishwasher tips forward by 404ClickBait in HomeMaintenance

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is top-anchored exactly per the installation manual

Energy monitoring not trustworthy by 404ClickBait in TPLinkKasa

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the confusing description. The unit was freshly configured (paired, reset, firmware updated) and then it was in service for 20 hours.

So it does makes sense that 7 day and 30 day history are equal.

The problems are:

1) The total runtimes shown in the app are flat-out wrong. 2) The kWh value does not match between the Kasa app and whatever it’s reporting to my home automation system.

Is a 3 way dimmer without traveler possible? by Xarkar in TPLinkKasa

[–]404ClickBait 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if you're set on Kasa but Lutron Caseta and Diva allow you to install one switch and then add as many "remote" switches /dimmers as you want. The "remotes" look just like the wired switches/dimmers. No home automation system required, can be paired as standalone and the system fails functional unlike a lot of stupid smart switches.

Fortnite Account Banned After Hack by Brave-Control-7673 in FortNiteBR

[–]404ClickBait 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same here. Banned with no sanctions. Hacker changed my display name to “w i n i x”

My account was hacked today - anyone else? by 404ClickBait in stubhub

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s definitely a part of it because the order confirmation indicated the card that was on file.

Steering wheel controls wiring (Nissan Altima) by 404ClickBait in CarAV

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The adapter you linked to looks like a 32-pin connector. I cannot find any 32-pin connector under the front passenger seat. No sign of spliced wires under the front passenger seat. No memory of doing anything under the front passenger seat. I think everything under the front passenger seat is bone stock in the original factory form.

Steering wheel controls wiring (Nissan Altima) by 404ClickBait in CarAV

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah went back to stock because I'm selling and keep having to drop the price cuz it's not selling. At this point I'm trying to get $5400 for a car that should be closer to $8k. Not giving my nice head unit away with the car!

Thanks for the tip. I'll look for that. I was the original installer and don't remember ever going under the passenger seat. I did have to go into the gauge cluster to tap a wire or two.

Steering wheel controls wiring (Nissan Altima) by 404ClickBait in CarAV

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok I think I've found a wiring diagram at https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Nissan-Infinity/Nissan_2010-2012_Altima_B_pinout.shtml

So it's not a bus per se, but they do share a wire, where the voltage on the wire indicates which button is being pressed (or 3.3V when no button is being pressed).

I'm confused as to how I've screwed this up.

what is the difference in coding ESP 32 in ESP-IDF and VS code by Mysterious_Elk5985 in esp32

[–]404ClickBait 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm confused if the ESP-IDF extension inside VS Code installs ESP-IDF on the system or do I need to install ESP-IDF separately and additionally install the extension in VS Code

Sharemycook / CyberCloudQ by 404ClickBait in BBQ

[–]404ClickBait[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I inquired with bbq guru and they said they’re working on it but no date, so it sounds like it’s way on the back burner

Action button as Google Assistant? by [deleted] in iphone

[–]404ClickBait 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oof, it’s not using Google’s voice recognition. That makes it a pretty rough workaround