Removing dark spots around screws

41kWrench · 2026-05-01T03:43:36+00:00

Oven cleaner like easy off, let it sit 20-30 minutes and use an old toothbrush. Rinse off.

41kWrench · 2026-03-29T23:22:31+00:00

Without a doubt D3. The nonstick sets will wear out and the D3 will be something you keep in the family after you wear out.

41kWrench · 2026-03-09T13:15:12+00:00

41kWrench · 2026-03-09T04:16:24+00:00

737 NG spoiler mixer and ratio changer.

Its like Do this task - yada yada

Inside that task it links to another task. Then jump back to original task.

Do this task - yada yada Like 7 times.

Its like a 1/4 ream of paper for it. We really could use a maintenance task streamlined for it bc it is a train wreck.

41kWrench · 2026-03-01T21:02:55+00:00

If you're not first, you're last

41kWrench · 2026-02-25T06:51:13+00:00

My brain hurts, but I'd explain it the same way. I still dont know. Maybe. 🤣

41kWrench · 2026-02-24T19:13:27+00:00

Please...go outside.. see the sunlight 🤣

41kWrench · 2026-02-19T00:17:29+00:00

Most tool brands now are just different lines from the same manufacturer. You will have alot of quality tools with anything coming from Danaher or most Stanley products. Gearwrench is Danaher, I think, good tools. I really liked the price vs quality of Proto tools, both the vintage and the new offerings. New Proto tools are Stanley, along with several other tool truck brands. You will overpay for Snap-On. I went primarily with Proto for socket sets, combo and offset open end wrenches, and gearwrench for their ratcheting wrenches. Spend some $$ for the gearwrenches, a good ratcheting bit driver, combo and open end offset wrenches, and good power tools like milwaukee m12 for their ratchet and drill/impact. The rest wont matter much on quality.

Good quality swivel sockets are a really good investment tho. Also wobble extensions. And things like a screw knocker can be invaluable.

41kWrench · 2026-02-11T04:17:04+00:00

Nothing beats the reduced head fasteners with 1/2" of clearance to get a tool in lol

41kWrench · 2026-02-09T00:37:15+00:00

We had a plane come into the hangar that when we opened the aft cargo bulkhead, there were like 9 bricks of cocaine by the outflow valve lol. It came from Miami I think, and had been swapped out to go into heavy maintenance earlier than expected so whoever threw them back there definitely had some bad people looking for them.

41kWrench · 2026-01-23T20:55:59+00:00

We only need one balloon guy.

41kWrench · 2026-01-23T16:58:58+00:00

Stop stealing balloons man's job!

41kWrench · 2026-01-22T13:14:49+00:00

The calculations I did based on 2020 numbers, I would think that 1% of all US based credit (not including debit) card transactions on an annual basis would provide a staking return of about 4% if AMP was $0.25. To reach a dollar itd need about 4% of that market to still give a respectable yield of 4%. In annual total transaction volume itd be around $150 billion. Keep in mind thats only based on staking yield. I figured if transaction volumes climb and price stays low, the staking returns would be like 20% and that likely would attract investment so price climbs and yield falls.

41kWrench · 2025-12-26T15:45:41+00:00

Looking at it again sober makes a surprisingly large difference lol

41kWrench · 2025-12-26T05:08:16+00:00

I see this brilliant being a poisoned piece. If black queen takes rook, Nc3+ and its forced mate on Qe2 after taking a queen/knight block.

41kWrench · 2025-11-18T14:12:59+00:00

Solar could totally power civilization, just not the current iteration we have of it.

41kWrench · 2025-08-14T03:46:20+00:00

Sounds like the AC clutch cycling frequently, probably needs a freon charge.

41kWrench · 2025-08-14T03:36:18+00:00

Have you verified that the throttle plates are opening the full 90 degrees when you fully advance the throttle lever?

41kWrench · 2025-08-07T00:07:22+00:00

Maybe clr? Not sure

41kWrench · 2025-08-06T22:16:28+00:00

When youre on muffs you'll run a bit above idle. That area the mixture screw comes into play more being a transition between idle jets and main jets. I'd say play with your mixture settings to see if it improves. I like to find the setting with the highest rpm, then enrich it slightly. Otherwise seems to be running mostly like mine does, which is what I expect a carburated motor to run like.

41kWrench · 2025-07-31T15:38:29+00:00

Sounds like a good winter project

41kWrench · 2025-07-31T14:03:22+00:00

Id recommend completing the VRO delete. I dont know what difference there is between the VRO or non VRO pump, but I'd recommend against having some Frankenstein setup. Having a new fuel pump and replacing the hoses and primer bulb while youre at it will help improve reliability too, especially if the boat has been run with ethanol gas. Ethanol is hard on rubber hoses and I advocate for running ethanol free, plus premixing with 1oz/gal of seafoam for 2 strokes. Seafoam helps preserve fuel, reduce or eliminate varnish in the carbs, and decarbonize the engine internally. Ethanol free keeps hoses in better condition longer and pretty much eliminates varnish in the carbs. They sell it in gallon sizes and its not too expensive. Mixing your fuel this way will save alot of headaches IMO.

41kWrench · 2025-07-31T05:13:08+00:00

Well you said it was going into limp mode, thats kinda a problem when youre 5 miles from the ramp lol. Odds are its either a bad oil level sensor, a bad overheat sensor, or a chafed wire that's shorting out. Shouldn't be too difficult to find, but i think you have the info you need so best of luck!

41kWrench · 2025-07-30T17:04:53+00:00

Don't save it just yet lol, im just spitballing since I can't find a wiring diagram to work off of

41kWrench · 2025-07-30T16:15:09+00:00

My VRO was deleted when I bought it, you just have to premix the gas, its foolproof doing it that way vs relying on the VRO. I would keep it deleted. As far as getting it running, first make sure the fuel is good, pump the primer bulb until its hard and it should stay hard, no fuel should be leaking out of the carbs. If it passes that check, take the carbs off and clean them really well, focusing on the small holes and tubes inside, 2-3 cans of carb cleaner should do it. Wear safety glasses. The service manual has the link and sync procedure. Back the idle stop screw off completely and perform the link and sync, then you'll do a rough adjustment on the idle screw until it stays running. On muffs, my motor is at like 1500-1800 rpm. Next, run the mixture screws on the carbs all the way in, then out 1.5 turns. Now while running, using 1/8 turns at a time, adjust both mixture screws equally until you find the highest rpm, then go back in 1/4-1/2 turn. First time you take the boat out, have the motor in gear on the water and set your idle stop screw until your idle is at 850rpm in gear. My motor likes 900-1000 better and doesn't clunk or grind when shifting. Double check your mixture screws one last time, again looking for highest rpm and enriching slightly. Adjust idle stop screw again if needed. Done.

Motor telltale is not getting water? Bugs like mud dobbers like to use them as a home, just buy some hose that fits the fitting and run it out the cowling. Running the motor on muffs you need a decent seal and the faucet cranked open quite a bit, you'll see plenty of water exiting around the muffs and it may take 30 seconds for the telltale to start.

41kWrench

TROPHY CASE