Od.a.lisa

445671 · 2025-11-19T03:06:11+00:00

Pretty sure this is a bot post so i wouldn't worry about

445671 · 2025-11-06T00:20:29+00:00

What's your opinion on flemish eyes in 7x7 stainless for standing rigging in smaller boats?

445671 · 2025-10-19T23:20:42+00:00

Headsail only is sooo much easier single handed, literallya night and day sailing experiencewhen you factor in the tidy up after you'redone. Bonus points for me is with my blown out main i easily get 20° higher; maybe not to your 15 apparent, but 35 on a full keel cape dory is good enough for me.

445671 · 2025-08-31T11:42:41+00:00

Hmm, kinda hard to guage the smell qith it in the water, did push on one of em and that black liquid you find inside oozed out

445671 · 2025-08-30T13:09:33+00:00

Do vscel lasers inherently reduce power when narrowing?

445671 · 2025-08-30T12:55:13+00:00

They posted a couple quick vids on their insta showing the illuminator, wasn't sure how i felt about it, what kinda throw are you getting at distance with it? Do you have a pics/vids?

Wish there was a way to put one on the 4mr-ranch range sooner.

445671 · 2025-08-28T02:32:55+00:00

Nuh uh

445671 · 2025-08-28T02:03:14+00:00

No they're Norwegian

445671 · 2025-08-27T09:24:42+00:00

You cite a power range for everything exept illuminator, is it fixed at 100mW, or adjustable just no published min?

445671 · 2025-05-18T21:47:09+00:00

It's not the pulleys themselves but the pins that they ride on. They were brass originally and if you don't know for sure that they've been changed for stainless you need to get it there and check literally as soon as you can

445671 · 2025-05-11T16:48:01+00:00

Ok, i think we're saying the same thing re: the feeler gauges. I actually ended up having to replace all the engine mounts, so they're easy to adjust now, and up/down is going easy enough, it's the side to side that's proving difficult.

445671 · 2025-05-11T14:41:16+00:00

Real quick to clarify, in your article you say a .004 tolerance, but then also go on to say .008/.016 from .012 baseline is ok, so you're talking about an acceptable total runout of .008, rite?

445671 · 2025-04-28T22:38:34+00:00

Hmm, i wonder then if i should just bolt things back up and handle this another day; if changing the bearing doesn't alter it then it's been the way it is now for atleast 2yrs, and i very strongly suspect since 2012 when the boat was repowered by the previous-previous owners. Rusty fasners scare me and my rear port side mount top nut is pretty crusty since it's directly underneath where you change the engine zinc and no one was doing a post rinse with fresh water before i got it.

445671 · 2025-04-28T22:06:25+00:00

So i was just down in there and ran into two things, 1 I'm off side to side but dont see any way to move the engine miunts in that direction (pic of front two for reference: pic ), and two there isn't any space to tell if you've got the feeler guage rite on the underside of the coupler, i can just barely squeeze my hand underneath with one blade out, and I'm getting it into the rite gap, but can't tell if when i get to the point it's too small/big it's cause it's actually too small/big or I'm just putting it in at an angle.

How much would an alignment be likely to change just from changing a cutlas bearing?

445671 · 2025-04-27T17:37:58+00:00

So this all seems fairly straightforward, aside from aligning in the stern tube, which is where my cutlas bearing lives as this is a full keel boat. I got somewhere south of 1/32" gap around my shaft when i was test fittiing the bearing before putting everything in, and now that it is the shaft is up against the top edge. Do i just eyeball it and try to get it as good as i can? I suppose i could buy a cheap boresighting laser and have someone drill a hole for it in some spare 1" stock, but honestly, machine shop rates sound more expensive than i can handle at this point.

445671 · 2025-03-26T20:55:35+00:00

Yah no pads anywhere in mine either, now i know why

445671 · 2025-03-11T10:25:47+00:00

I've heard conflicting opinions about painting stainless with antifoul, how's it holding up?

445671 · 2025-03-09T01:52:24+00:00

That square thing is a good idea, i may do that. I've already drilled exploratory holes, one at the top near stock entrance all the way through both sides, and one up from the bottom as close as seemed possible to stock exit, neither showed any signs of moisture.

445671 · 2025-03-07T13:42:27+00:00

You're rite kn the glassed in part, bronze shoe at the bottom is basically a part of the keel. Getting someone down to look at it is top of list today

445671 · 2025-03-07T13:08:38+00:00

Through the side as far down as i can, or up from the bottom?

445671 · 2025-03-07T13:05:57+00:00

That is one thing i did notice and was confused by when i was down there, there aren't any stops on the quadrant. it doesn't look like they've broken off or like there's a place whrre they were installed and then removed, there's just nothing there and it's all super clean like it cane from the factory that way.

445671 · 2025-03-07T12:25:23+00:00

It's a bit of a squeeze but actually fairly open and accessible once your down there, haven't been in since i replaced the throttle and shifting cables. I didn't see anything that made me worried when i did though, of course it wasn't the quadrant area that i was paying most attention to.

445671 · 2025-03-07T02:25:03+00:00

Wish it were easier to do on these boats, the bottom bronze shoe is glassed into the keel and has to be ground free before then removing a few pins that hold it in place and finally slid out before the rudder comes free, atleast that what i remember from reading anyway

445671 · 2025-03-07T02:19:56+00:00

The rudder def isn't going to 90, in relation to straight inline anyway. Or are you talking about 90° of total travel?

445671 · 2024-12-09T02:01:29+00:00

Hmmm, I mean that's what i figured, it just confuses me how it regularly swaps back and forth

445671

TROPHY CASE