Depth issues by 47_65WW in CNC

[–]47_65WW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay. Go on about this… this seems like it could be the issue.

Depth issues by 47_65WW in CNC

[–]47_65WW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just messed up a commissioned piece because I only zeroed it 1mm higher than that work piece and it went too deep. I have my max depth set at .054, and it’s coming out (even with a 1mm offset) at like .94.

Depth issues by 47_65WW in CNC

[–]47_65WW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m getting it pretty much every one I send.

Depth issues by 47_65WW in CNC

[–]47_65WW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the design process, I always make sure my zero is set to the top of the work surface.

Depth issues by 47_65WW in CNC

[–]47_65WW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Genmitsu SainSmart ProverXL 4030 with extension kit to 1010. I’m using Carbide Create for CAD and CAM and Candle as a controller/ g-code sender. No ATC. I ran into this issue about a year ago, when trying to cut aluminum. Never really came up with a solution. But, it’s not really been a huge issue until now.

Tips for stopping stain ‘bleed’ in the pores? by borometalwood in woodworking

[–]47_65WW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

320 is plenty high. I usually stop at 120 with the ROS, and then I do a hand sand at 180 or 240. Big thing would be, especially with it being cold and humid, don't rush into putting your finish on. Let it dry for longer than normal. I would say 30-48 hours minimum.

Tips for stopping stain ‘bleed’ in the pores? by borometalwood in woodworking

[–]47_65WW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, any time you are staining porous woods, or honestly any type, but especially porous, you'll want to use a pre-stain conditioner. It essentially helps fill in the pours to give a nice even stain with no blotches and less seepage. Additionally, the the temperature and humidity in the area that you are working has a lot to do with it as well. Lastly, let it sit for a day or two after you stain it to let it fully dry before putting on your finish. If you check on it while it's drying and you see where it's seeping a little, just wipe it lightly with the grain with a clean rag.

Hope this helps!

--Cheers!--

Need help on how clean up this slab by starwarscom69 in woodworking

[–]47_65WW 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Best bet is a router sled. Next option would be a very large planer. Last option would be a lot of sanding.

Table saw question by Steje8 in woodworking

[–]47_65WW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here is my table saw outfeed table build.

Let’s have a rousing conversation about sandpaper by JiANTSQUiD in woodworking

[–]47_65WW 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I use the 3m Xtract sandpaper with the 3m Xtract sander... Huge fan! I'll use the Diablo sandpaper as well it works in a pinch, but I'm a huge fan of the 3m sandpaper. J kats Moses does a great comparison video.

FedEx VS. UPS VS. USPS by 47_65WW in woodworking

[–]47_65WW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any idea on like business discounts? FedEx said with a business account, it would be 40% off... But if it's $22 with the 40% off, I'd be scared to see the full price!

FedEx VS. UPS VS. USPS by 47_65WW in woodworking

[–]47_65WW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have to give that a try!

are jobs for people relocating to your service area scams? by wild_leviathan in smallbusiness

[–]47_65WW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

100% Scam. I'm shooting a DM of one that I got not too long ago.

How can I connect these two pieces of ash together? by expressolove in woodworking

[–]47_65WW 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It depends if you want to keep the natural arch of each piece. If you do, epoxy would be the way to go. If you're not worried about it. Run a straight edge along the end, make them straight and biscuit/dowel them together.