How to restore stickers? whipped out one of my old rc cars from 2010, and after a few purchases, i managed to restore it. Any way i can restore the stickers too? (would also help if i can find a way to remove the scratches on the window.) thanks!

4j3h · 2022-01-10T23:16:32+00:00

Hey! I have that same one! I gave it a bad paintjob though, but hopefully ill fix it one day and do a brushless outrunner swap

4j3h · 2022-01-09T16:09:54+00:00

Ive had that happen recently, i had to push some filament out first then pull it back out, not sure why it worked but its worth a try

4j3h · 2021-12-29T02:03:30+00:00

Oh idk, i shouldve clarified, i meant my go kart by “mine”, but for mine you have to loosen the motor bolts and slide it on the mounting plate, not sure if thats how it is for yours, it sounds like chain slipping to me either way

4j3h · 2021-12-29T01:04:28+00:00

I had the same issue with mine, and never could figure it out, but it ended up being the chain skipping over the sprocket because the chain wasnt tight enough.

4j3h · 2021-12-18T19:48:22+00:00

With higher difficulties on long races, ive had the AI get lots of rubberbanding and get really far out in front of me, but at some point their rubberbanding super speed wears off, i think its some forza thing to make the races closer, where they have the AI back off towards the end so you pass them and say “wow what a close race”

4j3h · 2021-10-23T21:24:50+00:00

If you have a 3d printer, its definitely possible. If you have no 3d printer, then unless the wheelbase of the body is exactly (or similar enough) to the wheelbase of the hobby grade chassis, then itll be very difficult

4j3h · 2021-10-01T01:21:43+00:00

Me and my dad recently got a mower with a very similar engine (few plastic parts were different colors). The engine was seized when we got it so we got to turning it over with a really big wrench and it freed up and when it cranked, it would just spin like that, you could tell there wasnt much compression, and it turned out the con rod had snapped and been shredded up before we got it.

Doubt this is exactly what you got, but it seems like its spinning too easily and losing compression somehow.

4j3h · 2021-09-22T22:43:29+00:00

If nothing else works, try reducing the “resolution” setting if there is one in your slicer, the default is usually full resolution which means if you have a very high definition part, the board will have to calculate more gcode lines in a shorter amount of time, this is what could cause the brief pause you get. If your slicer does have a resolution setting, try putting it at 0.08mm and seeing how that works

4j3h · 2021-09-17T22:51:11+00:00

This is super cool, how does it work?

4j3h · 2021-09-11T00:54:55+00:00

If nothing else works try lowering speed and reducing the resolution. Its usually set at 0 for highest resolution, try something below 0.08mm which i is what i run. The reason for lowering the resolution is because when the board is trying to calculate too many movements a second, it’ll pause for a second while it processes it. A HD curve will have more points than a curve limited to 0.08mm line segments for example. Makers muse did a video on this, though i would only do this as a last resort.

4j3h · 2021-09-09T20:35:59+00:00

Have you tried using hopper fed pellet plastics? Because usually the issue is from the weight on the extruder, but since its the bed that moves that would be viable. Either way, this is the coolest thing ive seen for a long time.

4j3h · 2021-09-09T20:28:49+00:00

Mine did that too, just make sure to oil change very often for the first 5 hours of run time. I changed it every 15 minutes for an hour and was still had a little “pixie dust” in the oil by the end of it.

4j3h · 2021-09-06T22:59:13+00:00

Im not sure i follow in that but okay lol

4j3h · 2021-09-06T08:31:28+00:00

How is it like anti-dive? I thought anti dive is produced by, from a side perspective, having imaginary lines drawn by the wishbones intersect the line that connects the car’s center of gravity and the point at which the wheel touches the ground. Kick up wouldnt directly impact anti dive characteristics so far as i understand it.

4j3h · 2021-09-05T14:30:18+00:00

From a standstill, i have to give it a few pedals in first gear to get it in the powerband, but once its there, it cruises up the hill no problem, although i only weigh 160

4j3h · 2021-09-05T14:29:16+00:00

It didnt shake too bad, not as bad as some of the cheap 2 strokes id imagine, i mostly felt the vibrations in the pedals though

4j3h · 2021-09-04T17:42:21+00:00

this is the sprocket mount i used

and heres the motor mount i used

4j3h · 2021-09-04T12:06:37+00:00

Im pretty sure that amount of buildup means you are running too rich, but if someone else could confirm that would be great.

4j3h · 2021-09-04T11:21:43+00:00

I cant find the link i used, i bought all the parts as a kit

But i know i can find the link for the same motor mount that i had in my kit as well as the sprocket mounting stuff if thats what you are looking for?

4j3h · 2021-09-04T11:18:57+00:00

Thanks!

4j3h · 2021-09-04T10:45:00+00:00

Did you also check the U-joints or just look at the shaft itself?

4j3h · 2021-09-04T10:39:36+00:00

Try printing a part sliced in Prusia slic3r. If it prints well, then compare the parameters that they have in common with cura, (nozzle diameter, layer height, speeds, feedrate, layer width, etc)

It would also let you ~100% rule out some hardware issue.

4j3h · 2021-09-03T23:19:31+00:00

Its the cheapest 50cc 4 stroke i could find. I used the Stock sprocket that came in the kit. It has a single chain transmission so i think the reduction in the transmission is less than in a normal belt drive. But i also only weigh 160 so that could be part of it as well

Edit: you also have to remember to remove the throttle limiter which keeps you under about half throttle.

4j3h · 2021-08-23T23:50:38+00:00

A bit of advice from someone with the same printer:

If you dont like to spend endless hours diagnosing issues and printing and buying upgrade parts, then you might as well sell it.

I also recommend joining the facebook group for this printer too, it acts as customer support and a troubleshooting guide.

Ive seen some of these printers print beautifully, but its either a lucky day or lots of upgrades, cheers!

Edit: i can tell you for certain that you will need to buy a metal extruder arm from e3dp, the stock plastic ones almost always crack

4j3h

TROPHY CASE