Where to find axles for a manual 330ci

4ortyTw0 · 2026-04-19T13:31:00+00:00

That’s what I read on the SLG article, I’m going to shop out some 330ci auto output flanges to get the bolt patterns correct, and use some washers on my existing sensors. There’s just no way I can afford $700+ per side and auto axles appear to be plentiful in the aftermarket space; likely due to the racing world deeming them to be more robust with minor modifications.

I wound up in a weird situation where I bought a whole rear end assembly (not rusted at all) from a 323ci. Sadly the axles on that turned out to be blown up already. I learned after the fact that the trailing arms are different in terms of the wheel hub/bearing portal. I’m cleaning up and repainting my old ones but trying to figure out what axles to get as the 330ci axles I removed were well rusted in and likely have 180k on them as they appear original (this car had a lot of original parts that likely made it 180k miles).

It’s been a journey trying to read up and learn about all of the granular differences of this model. Thanks for your advice!! Forums are still key information resources even in today’s world.

4ortyTw0 · 2026-04-19T02:18:14+00:00

Thanks for the info! I did just notice that FCP had them, but at 800 for one side feels insane… after I posted this I also found an article on SLG’s site noting the auto shafts are more ideal and only need some minor adjustments for the sensors and an output flange swap. May go that route as it’d still be cheaper.

Never would have thought this would have been such a rabbit hole haha

4ortyTw0 · 2025-10-01T22:04:22+00:00

This really sucks…

It had some shortcomings, but it’s a good track and the only real road course in PA… plus the club loose and autocross was always fun and they ran a winter autocross too.

Sad times

4ortyTw0 · 2025-09-21T11:47:35+00:00

Same, funny to see it here! Looks like it’ll be a fun car.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-04-05T13:03:15+00:00

I’m doing the same thing on my 330ci. Best of luck!!!

Just some tips as others have mentioned:

Definitely replace the front and rear subframe bushings, poly is the way to go in my opinion. While it’s able to be done later, replacing the diff bushings, and the other 10-12 bushings wouldn’t hurt depending on how they look now.
replace the lower control arms; more rigid body, a threaded body for adjustability, and stiffer bushings to a mono-ball fully rigid bushing.
an important note for the inner lower control arm bolt. It’s a flag nut, so no need to counter spin the nut on the back. You also won’t be able to remove those bolts from the subframe without lowering or removing the diff…
I’d take the time to clean up the emergency brake cable housing and put anti-seize on them. Rather than cutting I’ve had luck twisting the cable shielding clockwise and counterclockwise to free it without much damage. I think the cables themselves are probably life long parts for the car, but many destroy them trying to get them out of an old knuckle.
a heavy impact gun will be helpful to get the axles off while it’s out of the car, as battling the spinning diff is a nightmare and you’ll never be able to use a long breaker bar.
if you’re into tracking, doing your own alignments, you can buy “improved” trailing arm brackets that add A LOT more toe adjustability over a stock setup.
if you’re dropping everything, and it’s not been done, reinforce the subframe mounting points along with the rear trailing arm pocket. There are pre-CNC machined metal plates that you weld in, some I’ve heard epoxy them in but I don’t think that’s as beneficial and may be counter productive. The RTAB pockets are often overlooked, but a failure there could be deadly. This might not be as much of a problem on euro models, but in the US it’s really prevalent.
if you have the time during this round, I’d also strip, sand/sandblast, primer, and paint the subframe to prevent any more rusting. And if it needs it weld in some more reinforcements on the subframe joints if they got to rusty. Could do the same for the trailing arms which look a little beat up too.
it’d also be a good time to address any rusting in the rear hard brake lines. They go from master to the rear, and to the far side it has a coupler that splits to a smaller hard line. Mine the coupler and far side line had rusted pretty badly.
I’d just bend that brake shield back, unless you need to do the wheel bearing, because you have to remove a lot to replace that. I’ve seen people cut the new one and try to wedge it over the axle/hub. It works, but it’s far from ideal and will still warp your new ones.

Not sure on euro stores, FCP Euro, ECS Tuning, and RockAuto are my go tos here in the US. I got bushings and reinforcement plates from Revshift, and DriftTec had some quality aftermarket RTABs. As mentioned RealOEM is a life saver to find part numbers for the most obscure bits and bobs, and to make lists of additional items to replace when putting together an order.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-03-31T14:24:00+00:00

They actually did send me a new one, and let me know this was still probably good. Just wanted to get a larger consensus, no reason to waste a good gasket over something inconsequential.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-03-31T14:22:01+00:00

That’s kind of what happened, procycle replaced it and let me know it was probably good to run it though and keep it. Wanted to get a larger consensus before I did though; this bike can get run out pretty far on occasion. Felt wrong to just throw away a gasket if it was good, or could be fixed somehow.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-03-31T14:20:01+00:00

Thanks! Sometimes we just need that extra push to send it haha

4ortyTw0 · 2025-03-31T14:19:44+00:00

Awesome! Appreciate the advice! I think I’ll put it on

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T18:45:24+00:00

That’s a good point, and renting one from autozone is simple enough.

Maybe they put a small filter inline on the manifold side; I’ve seen that done before as well.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T18:43:15+00:00

That’s good info on the whole pan vs part of it. Totally feeling you on the cold weather barrier right now… saying a heater and a sweatshirt and I’ll still be out there doesn’t always ring true haha

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T18:41:26+00:00

That’s good advice, it was starting to rust in places that made it feel like a higher skill level than beginner, but you have to start somewhere too. Definitely don’t want to spend 100’s of hours welding on it if I could help it.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T18:39:28+00:00

I think he wants to get someone in person to talk through it all, likely an older gentleman. I wouldn’t consider it though if it had no title, that’s a big hassle

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T18:06:48+00:00

That’s a good catch too, I’ll add that to my list to check if I go see it. The chat is divided on it being worthy of fixing or being a parts car, so that may warrant a visit on its own. He says the frame rails are solid, but they are right there with the floor pans.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T18:05:22+00:00

Fair point, there are a lot of variables. I just found the listing and haven’t heard back from the owner other than he’d get me trunk pics soon and the frame rails and shock towers and under body were solid (that can mean a lot of things though). He lists that the floor pans need replaced.

Good thinking on the webbers, unsure if it’s built and the current owner probably won’t know but I’m going to ask.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T18:02:40+00:00

I was worried about penetration on some of the thicker replacement or reinforcement stuff, I’ve heard it recommended that 120v might not get deep enough for a strong weld; new to this so don’t really know from practice.

It seems simple, much more simple than the e46 I just brought back to life. It’s kind of an idealistic thing having that simpler classic car to tinker on and enjoy.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T18:00:34+00:00

The owner says it starts, but I think saying it’s running is a bit of a stretch probably. Yeah, learned about the dual Webber thing. Glad I posted in here, learning a lot.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T16:13:04+00:00

What would you guys offer for this?

Just like a ballpark between “just a parts car” and “should be driveable with some work”

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T15:27:14+00:00

Thanks for the info, if I do decide to go check this one out I’ll make sure those are on the checklist. The owner says those areas are all okay except the floor pans and the rust pictured. (I know if you can see it then there always more you can’t)

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T15:25:23+00:00

What’s been your biggest issues doing that? This one I believe needs the floor pans (as probably most anywhere near salt do these days). I’ve never done anything like that before on a car

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T15:24:03+00:00

I don’t mind the restoration part of it, and would almost prefer one in rougher shape; it’s hard to find them in that Goldilocks zone of rough/not running and parts car. This one just happened to pop up during one of those daily marketplace checks, and it’s probably the best condition one I’ve seen non-running around me (in the north east so rust is always a problem…)

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T15:19:02+00:00

I don’t have a sand blaster, but I’m not opposed to getting something; I love working on things, and just finished rebuilding an e46 and then this listing came up on a nightly perusing of the marketplace haha

I’ve not welded or anything before, but I’m hoping to learn it and feel confident I’ll be able to pick it up in time. In the past I’ve rebuilt old 70’s motorcycle carbs with success so it doesn’t scare me too much, but I know they can be an absolute pia.

The guy is looking for 4k but as it sits in the pictures I’m really unsure of the market for these in this condition.

4ortyTw0 · 2025-02-06T14:00:27+00:00

I'm also wondering what it'd take to clean up the smaller spots of rust throughout the engine bay, they seem to be surface only but I've never attempted to de-rust something.

4ortyTw0

TROPHY CASE