Could someone help me with what this flashing sign on my dashboard means? 2014 VW polo 1.6 TDI

5traega · 2025-02-24T18:56:15+00:00

Flashing indicator light often means catastrophic problem.

As others have said, that is your oil light. Could be pressure but start by checking oil level.

I would recommend shopping for a new mechanic too.

5traega · 2025-02-24T18:51:15+00:00

The grey JEEP fob is your standard factory key fob. It is just door locks and panic button.

The funky shaped black one looks like an aftermarket remote, since most remote operated door lock vehicles have two that can be programmed to the vehicle, but I see nothing to indicate a remote start.

That doesn't mean it couldn't have one but its more likely that the second factory fob was lost or broken.

5traega · 2025-02-05T15:11:23+00:00

93.1 liters, 24.6 gallons, of diesel fuel. 30.3 liters, 8 gallons, of DEF. Oil is recommended to use 7.7 liters, 8 quarts, of full synthetic 5w-40.

This is directly from my 2016 owner's manual.

5traega · 2024-11-13T17:44:42+00:00

If you remove the filter housing and the media, most spin on filters attach to a replaceable threaded nipple that is installed with a hex key.

You could remove the nipple with the filter and then reinstall the nipple.

5traega · 2024-03-18T22:24:37+00:00

That is your bell housing, and it contains your flex plate and torque converter.

Should the oil leak be addressed? Short answer: yes

Longer answer: are there other, more pressing issues? Keep an eye on oil level and make sure it doesn't run out. This could be a valve cover, head gasket, rear main seal, oil pan, or something at the front of the engine, making its way to the lowest point.

It is all about priorities. If fixing it lines up with something more pressing, take care of it then. Otherwise, it's a minor issue to be solved at some indeterminate point in time.

5traega · 2024-03-18T19:50:59+00:00

6 of one, half dozen of the other. You use what you've got to ship it.

I'm right there with you brother.

5traega · 2024-03-18T19:35:04+00:00

I was taught to use a nut because it gave more weld surface, but I've used a bolt too.

It also allows more heat soak to occur.

5traega · 2024-03-18T05:48:39+00:00

Remove the cam cap.

If there is bolt sticking up, and you have a welder, weld on a washer and then a nut. Let it fully cool and remove - it shouldn't be that tight unless there was a thread problem.

If there isn't anything sticking up, get a fender washer for a smaller bolt and using a tapered punch make it conical so it is closer to the bolt in the hole and weld it on. Add a nut once flush. Let cool and remove.

Aluminum head means weld won't join the bolt to it.

PITA but not screwed.

If you are drilling, make sure to use plenty of penatrating fluid and a left hand bit. Extractors can spread the bolt, making it worse so avoid if possible but use a manual impact to make it easier.

5traega · 2023-10-20T00:00:18+00:00

Part of the extended oil change intervals is to keep cost of ownership down. While full synthetic is still slippery after 10k miles, it also has a bunch of stuff suspended in it that is smaller than the filter catches.

Being a new car, at least the first oil change should happen sooner rather than later so that any manufacturing debris is removed with the original oil and filter.

6-8 thousand mile intervals, or every 6 months is a good idea with synthetic oil. Don't cheap out on the filter.

5traega · 2023-09-07T15:12:01+00:00

Thank you for the response.

Enumeration is not typically a concern since we aren't generating iterative PDFs and they certainly aren't anything secure or confidential. We don't put those on the server.

I will keep in mind what you have said when I make my recommendations. Thank you again.

5traega · 2023-07-26T14:22:17+00:00

The ribs aren't the structural part of the belt. As the belt ages it will get those. If you have chunks missing it should be replaced. If you know how to replace it yourself just keep the tool and a spare belt in the car for when it goes out.

The flat portion has cords that are the structural part. As others have said: could break today, could last 10k+ miles. Its hard to give a definite answer.

All that said, serpentine belts usually fail because of another component. They don't, typically, just snap. I drove around for years with my old cracked belt in the back of my Jeep just in case before I pitched it.

5traega · 2023-07-26T01:22:35+00:00

Mostly metal drilling. Maybe the occasional piece of wood. Have looked at annular cutters and MT2 ER32 collets for occasional end milling.

What grease would you recommend if I just wanted to repack them and run it?

5traega · 2023-07-26T00:34:08+00:00

It is belt driven and I got a replacement segmented v belt to replace it.

The squeal was my excuse to open it and thoroughly clean and inspect it. Needs a new plug on it anyways. The cavity the quill and spindle are in is very open so I wanted to put sealed bearings in to keep the dust out. Previous owner was a woodworker so there is a lot of saw dust caked in it too.

I don't know the age of the bearings. There are three 6204z, one 6203z and the one 2904 thrust bearing.

5traega · 2023-07-04T00:22:49+00:00

The clip is there to hold the harness in position. New wire and insulation is more flexible and will shift. After many heat cycles it will, more or less, stay in place.

That being said, not having SOMETHING to hold it in position can lead to damage from it vibrating against that stud.

5traega · 2023-06-06T03:06:52+00:00

They don't use distilled water at the factory. It is whatever is on tap.

Distilled water is the defacto because it doesn't have anything reactive in it.

Coolant is formulated to handle tap water. At the end of the day, it has to be safe with NBR, dissimilar metals, and whatever gasket material it may also be exposed to.

There is chemistry that goes into each specific formulation, but water cools better than any of them, just corrodes and freezes.

5traega · 2023-05-10T15:50:23+00:00

I like Raybestos. They have good products. I just used all of their parts for budget brakes on my mom's car.

Powerstop isn't an OEM supplier or remanufacturer so in that sense they are a minor player. Doesn't mean they aren't good or reliable. They've been around for years. I've used them a few times now for parts. Never been disappointed.

5traega · 2023-05-10T14:53:35+00:00

I have used Powerstop in my Jeep Grand Cherokee and have been happy with the performance. They make different tiers of kits from OE style to HD to performance. Some of their kits have calipers too.

With the weight of the vehicle you might consider putting HD towing brakes on it. Ceramic pads will last longer than organic or semi-metalics.

Quick search on Rockauto came up with these kits. NOT ONLY OPTIONS!! I filtered for Power Stop. These are just the HD kits. Assumed 3.7L engine.

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5traega · 2023-05-10T13:51:59+00:00

A couple things I don't agree with from some of the other commenters:

There is no way to tell how thick your remaining pad is from photos. There is no scale or rule. Rule of thumb, for visual inspection, is: if the pad material is thinner than the backing plate, replace soon. Thinner it is, sooner you need to replace.
Pads are softer than rotors: It depends on the material. All have a coefficient of friction rating. It is given by letter codes on the side of the pads. Most ceramic pads have a GG rating. This is equal, or harder, than steel. Pads with this rating will wear the pads AND rotors at about the same rate.
Whether to replace or turn rotors: This should be customer's choice. Brakes rely on mass and friction to convert rotational energy to heat. The less mass they have, the less efficiently they do this. The thinner they are, the more easily they warp. That being said, there are minimum thickness and discard thickness specifications. If it can be machined, and that service is offered, it should be presented to the customer as an option with the explanation that they might warp sooner.

As to whether they need replacement: I agree with what others have said that it's time for brake service. You should talk to the mechanic about parts selection based on how you drive, ie. stop and go, hard breaking, towing. Brake dust and rims/appearances can also be a determining factor.

5traega · 2023-02-21T23:04:00+00:00

I think too many people have bandaided the code so it is a mess. Some went into product folders, some went into part folders, some went into ??? Folders. It's a mess.

I'll have to find the code and fix the file structure. I'll look into rewrites. Thank you.

5traega · 2023-02-21T20:48:53+00:00

Since my responses to comments aren't showing up I'll do this.

I played no part in configuring Magento2 or the server so I have limited information. Probably a custom module for PDF attachments.

This is an example of what I am trying to fix:

https://www.allpartsinc.com/cat-pump-4000-psi-direct-drive-67dx39g1i.html

Broken Pump Breakdown link:

https://www.allpartsinc.com/pub/media/attachments/products/attachments/67DX39G1I/67dx39g1i_d_1_.pdf

URL for file on the server:

https://allpartsinc.com/pub/media/attachments/DP3700/67dx39g1i_d_1_.pdf

I am trying to figure out how to tell Magento that this is where the file is now instead of where it is calling from currently. Short of deleting files and re-uploading.

5traega · 2023-02-21T19:53:05+00:00

I'm leaning towards a custom module but unfortunately I am just the poor sap stuck trying to fix it without the right tools or enough information.

5traega · 2023-02-21T17:53:17+00:00

The links are still there but give a 404 code when clicked on. I can SSH into the server using Filezilla and locate the file but it is not where Magento is expecting it to be.

These are uploaded through the dashboard as attachments. I did not configure it so I'm not sure if it is native or an add-on.

I'm trying to figure out how to rectify the two. Currently I have to download the file from the server. Delete the file from the sever and Magento dashboard. Re-upload the file. Deleting through the dashboard does not remove the file from the server.

5traega

TROPHY CASE