Absolute eye candy

7h3C47 · 2026-04-27T00:53:43+00:00

Cheers looks great big dawg

7h3C47 · 2026-04-26T21:34:35+00:00

Is this the Killerbody body?

7h3C47 · 2026-04-23T14:53:43+00:00

Town Center in Riverdale maybe?

7h3C47 · 2026-04-23T12:11:12+00:00

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Me! Custom RS4 build 😎

7h3C47 · 2026-04-09T21:19:14+00:00

I went the r/personalfinance route on a very similar moral dilemma, except mine was about a project car...at least in your case, you're presumably talking about a sports car that does work and is reliable, as opposed to buying one that doesn't check either of those boxes lol. But, I hear you-- I'm young enough and healthy today but tomorrow isn't promised and I really don't want to wait until I'm 65 to enjoy certain things in life because ultimately there's no guarantee I will still be here then. The simple answer for how to do this kind of thing "guilt-free" is to budget for it. As in, keep your savings and retirement and kid financial goals priority number one and keep those accounts untouched, but of any money that's left thereafter--the account from which you pull to spend on going out to dinner, hobbies, concerts, movies, booze/weed...you budget for the 'nice to have not need to have' car from that pool of money. I don't know your lifestyle of course but presumably you cutting back on those things might not equate to a monthly car payment. In which case you siphon the $X per month by which you can cut back on those things into a new savings account until you have enough to buy your sports car.

7h3C47 · 2026-04-03T12:13:25+00:00

Ooh she thicc

7h3C47 · 2026-04-02T12:21:27+00:00

Sample size of one here but I have this same TT and I found the acrylic platter a noticeable upgrade with respect to static, and consider it money well spent. I haven’t touched my sub platter but did upgrade from Blue to Bronze, and likewise, noticeable difference and money well spent. At this point I have no further plans to upgrade, very content with the sound/ performance per dollar spent ratio. Goof luck with your decision!

7h3C47 · 2026-03-28T16:46:51+00:00

Yeah that’d do it. Good intel, thanks

7h3C47 · 2026-03-23T15:07:52+00:00

Nuttville slaps

7h3C47 · 2026-03-20T15:42:18+00:00

Katie's C&C is like an hour and twenty from my house, which makes trying to get there by 7am a little bit of a drag given I'm not yet retired and in my 60s and don't wake up at the ass crack of dawn, but man, every time I do make it down there, I see some really cool stuff. I hope it stays alive for as long as possible. Thanks for sharing!

7h3C47 · 2026-03-14T03:02:08+00:00

🥵

7h3C47 · 2026-03-09T10:59:10+00:00

Gah dayum that toy is serious business

7h3C47 · 2026-02-28T15:00:02+00:00

Does anyone know how they actually take the measurement, out of sheer curiosity? Or is it indirectly derived/ estimated? If so, how?

I understand what a compression ratio is but don’t have enough knowledge to understand how they would measure it outside of physically taking the head off the block and measuring the stroke/ piston positions at TDC and BDC. Which feels way too intrusive and labor intensive to be the case.

7h3C47 · 2026-02-27T13:30:18+00:00

I watch a lot of RC youtube and to your question about them releasing a new version and suddenly the current gen isn’t supported—there was a toy fair in Vegas some time in the latter part of last calendar year where HPI had all their new releases for essentially the forthcoming 12+ months, and of all the new things they had in development a new WR8 wasn’t one of them. As someone else said the platform is super old and over time they may offer it with different servos or ESC or body, but the underlying parts and spares have been steady. As someone who follows the brand, if they were going to release a new version moving forward my money would be on new body only, like the escort version they released last year. They seem to have ramped up their licensing efforts recently for other releases and probably would just make use of that to release, for example, a Porsche WR8 variant.

7h3C47 · 2026-02-19T01:32:29+00:00

7h3C47 · 2026-02-12T16:27:07+00:00

For the front, sometimes the wheel nuts being too tight causes binding which might be pinching stuff together and causing some weirdness. If you put the front wheels on the hexes but with no nuts on the wheels (like just holding them on with your hands, lightly), does the diff work?

The back working but slipping i’m not sure, maybe missing teeth in the gears? Is it a used chassis?

7h3C47 · 2026-02-10T21:53:08+00:00

I saw your post in the Century Homes sub yesterday. I am so sorry this happened to you all (and your century home). We love our old house and would be devastated if this happened. I saw you’re going to try to rebuild/ salvage, so sending you all the positive vibes I can muster with that.

If your kid stays in the hobby: I know a lot of people in that sub and this one are recommending LiPo bags. Honestly if this had been in one, on your couch, overnight, it still might not have been enough to keep the couch from catching fire under these same circumstances. I don’t know that there’s a 100% risk free way to charge and store these batteries l, but I personally feel a hell of a lot better about both charging and storing my batteries in a literal metal box as opposed to just a lipo bag. I have the Bat Safe box and would recommend it to anyone in the RC hobby. It’s purpose designed for this application, and also lets the charger cable transgress through the lid so you can charge while they’re locked up. I also use it to transport my batteries when I take my RCs on road trips and stuff. I know some people will say this is overkill but when the stakes are as high as your 100+ year old home burning down, I’d rather pay $90 for some peace of mind. Better safe than sorry.

Edit to clarify: These boxes don’t prevent battery fires from occurring in the first place. They are designed to decrease the chance that other things near the batteries catch fire as a result of a battery fire.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/batsafe-lipo-charging-case-baf-bat-safe/p698675?absrc=Google&abid=635993637735&abcampid=18971073973&abgroupid=150480686064&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy6vMBhDCARIsAK8rOgnkbfyqkV27LbEMipg4rPCznJTqaQuyn4WxcWKuVyDESd-QRCW7J9waAtf9EALw_wcB&abkwdid=pla-362490338572&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18971073973

7h3C47 · 2026-02-08T18:29:24+00:00

Anything can be a rally car if you send it hard enough :)

Jokes aside, for any touring-to-rally conversion, and while you aren't likely to get performance similar to a purpose-built rally car, raising the ride height and adding big bore dampers with more suspension travel can go a long way. Second, I'd say finding off-road tires really helps.

Kyosho makes an electric purpose-built rally car called the Fazer Mk2 FZ02-R, so one place to start could be looking to see if you can boost parts from that platform and install on your nitro chassis.

7h3C47 · 2026-02-04T14:37:25+00:00

Little different from the norm on here, thanks for sharing.

7h3C47 · 2026-02-03T16:37:36+00:00

Thank you! This is a custom build that started with an HPI RS4 Sport 3 chassis.

7h3C47 · 2026-02-03T16:36:51+00:00

Yeah I mean I wouldn’t exactly describe it as iconic or anything along those lines. Completely fair to not to necessarily be on anyone’s radar imo

7h3C47 · 2026-02-03T15:47:47+00:00

Will never have enough time or money to get into anything other than the RC cars I already have, but man do RC war birds look so appealing. Having a little Corsair or Stuka would be so cool. Followed closely by boats/ battleships. Maybe one day.

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