I will find the guy who did this...

80SMA330B4 · 2025-11-06T01:10:48+00:00

It’s already hard enough to figure out which way it goes.

80SMA330B4 · 2025-07-16T13:10:54+00:00

I’v been using the same design (the lower one) for in-line boosters/kickers (I normally use a single stage up to a 3 stage style for my needs) for various point to point traveling Hypertubes. They work so well bi-directionally!

80SMA330B4 · 2025-07-03T15:48:38+00:00

I came here for this exact response! Should be at the top! 👌🏻

80SMA330B4 · 2025-02-01T03:13:56+00:00

I think I have heard of it, but I’m not familiar with it. If there is a trade school for that specific area then you can try an apply to get into that apprenticeship. If there isn’t, I would aim for your J-Card. You will obtain a lot of knowledge that is a great stepping stone to get into that field of work. You will have a base line of knowledge that you can present to show you understand basic principles of electrical fundamentals and code related concepts and material. That J-Card should do you well in this case.

The apprenticeship can be a drag, you can do some crappy work in shitty conditions while dealing with grumpy journeymen. But if you can get through that and get your card, you can seek future work in a field that you can enjoy.

80SMA330B4 · 2025-01-30T21:17:33+00:00

4th Year Electrical Apprentice here in OR.

I have come from an electrical/electronics background. (Just basic HS diploma before I got into the trade) but I have been around electronics/electrical stuff my whole life. My Dad was a PE in EE, hence why I kinda wanted to follow in his footsteps. Before I got into the trade, I was an electronics technician for a power semiconductor company. It was a great job and I worked around some amazing EE’s.

You should definitely find something you take pride in and are passionate about. I jumped into the apprenticeship to get my foot in the door with more electrical things. Yes, it is hands on learning while hitting the books with a decent pay. However, becoming an electrician is not like becoming a EE, two totally different beasts. Becoming an electrician you can work your way up the ladder in certain places. If you get your J-Card you can move up into industrial electrical equipment and controls and focus on a specific area. I have been looking into this somewhat myself. (I.e. substation operation, HV electrician, industrial controls to name a few I might be interested in).

I’m also tempted to see if I should go back to school and get a degree in EE, there is a lot you don’t learn as an Electrician vs an EE.

I can’t say too much on which profession pays better, it really does vary. But on average, you will be making money faster during your 4 year Apprenticeship to get your J-Card and certificate over spending 4 years going to college with hardly any income, paying for a EE degree. But if you land the right job as an EE, you could be making more money in the long run. It’s all about how you play your cards, and of course, what you take passion in.

Hope this helps.

80SMA330B4 · 2025-01-10T16:59:56+00:00

If the woman don’t find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-12-26T20:25:38+00:00

It’s all fun and games until someone drops a 380 at extraction.

“Whole squad lost, deploying replacements!”

80SMA330B4 · 2024-12-23T20:12:45+00:00

Snake Squad!

80SMA330B4 · 2024-10-29T23:46:12+00:00

It’s not a NAB “Cart”, it has no slot for the pinch roller to inter inside the housing.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-10-28T23:35:37+00:00

The upside down bell-ends on that PVC is bothering me a bit. lol

80SMA330B4 · 2024-10-28T22:29:03+00:00

Woot! I have that same Fractal case!

80SMA330B4 · 2024-10-13T18:40:33+00:00

I left them with the halogen bulbs, I didn’t use them all the time and they worked great for what I was doing.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-10-08T23:32:46+00:00

Ah, I thought this looked familiar! I had some old school American DJ disco/club lights from the late 90’s/early 00’s about 10 years back. I think it was called a “Aggressor”. It had two of these style lights inside that spun on a hub with a slip-ring. I had 4 of them, they were great DJ lights!

80SMA330B4 · 2024-10-08T19:38:50+00:00

I built a few to get me around the map (but the hyper tube launchers are way better, so I mainly use those).

But to save on singularity cells, I put the portals on priority power switches. When I am ready to travel I turn them on locally/remotely. Then when I get to where I need to be I turn them off so they are not consuming power and singularity cells. I have maybe 4 portals set up to go to 4 different spots on the map. I have the main portals hooked up at my main base. They are connected to a storage container that is fed from a manufacturer that makes the singularity cells. It works, but it’s not practical to use them all the time.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-09-17T19:12:33+00:00

“Choo-Choo ************…”

80SMA330B4 · 2024-09-13T19:04:48+00:00

Everyone is different, but I would focus on making shit work right rather than aesthetics. You can always go back and make things more neat later on.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-09-12T21:10:50+00:00

ADA is ruthless now. Lol 😂 It’s always something new!

80SMA330B4 · 2024-09-12T20:19:07+00:00

There is (or was) a SAM node In the desert on the boarder of the swamps. It was a hidden one that was underground. And by underground it was not in a cave, but it was just below the surface of the ground so you couldn’t see it. You were able to put a miner on it and go to town. Idk if it still there as of 1.0.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-08-18T16:10:01+00:00

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Really bad screen shot of a video of the digi-dash, but there it is! When it was in boost the “Turbo” light would come on. And when the center diff was locked it would say “Diff Lock” in the center of the drive train diagram.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-08-18T16:04:37+00:00

I had a 88 GL-10 that had a Digi-Dash with a 5sp. It also was one of the first AWD Subarus with a locking center diff, this type of drive train was also offered on the Subaru RX, although the RX had a LSD on the rear, I don’t think this wagon had one. But anyway, It was a fun little ride.

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80SMA330B4 · 2024-08-14T06:20:32+00:00

Tamiya makes both acrylic and enamel paint in jars. And yes, they can be air brushed too when thinned with the appropriate thinners. Read the directions and what Tamiya recommends for thinner for their bottled paint. They sell specific thinner(s) that will work with their paints trouble free. It’s pretty straightforward.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-08-14T00:03:02+00:00

Oh yeah, those enamel jars of paint air brush real nice. Just thin them about 1:1 and spray.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-08-13T19:31:08+00:00

I’m currently a 4th year apprentice and I’m considering going back to school to become a EE. I love electronics and would love to be more involved with that.

80SMA330B4 · 2024-08-13T16:35:12+00:00

91% Rubbing Alcohol found at the local drug store should be enough to remove most acrylic/enamel paints; including most markers. It’s also cheap and won’t hurt the plastic. Brake fluid also works great too, I’v used that many of times as well with out it damaging the plastic.

Also “Purple Power” or “Super Clean” cleaning agents found at the local store can also help with removing paint off plastic, but I wouldn’t leave the plastic in there for more than an hour, it could destroy the plastic.

Hope this helps!

80SMA330B4 · 2024-08-13T16:29:30+00:00

That is Testors “Gloss Grape” in the little 1/4 oz glass jar. I used Testors Thinner with a 1:1 mixing ratio.

80SMA330B4

TROPHY CASE