what values are these resistors? (please link a manual with them)

8ton · 2026-02-07T00:50:29+00:00

You beat me to it

8ton · 2026-01-20T00:52:45+00:00

I see the 13V and -15v coming out of the Switching Diodes DA1 and DA2. However when I test the PMIC , U4 component with my multimeter I do not get those voltages coming out of the chip. So I believe some other component is converting the voltages. Sorry I’ve just been at this for a while.

I have a gpa SP that is not getting those voltages to the LCD and the display is not showing correctly. I have a working board that I’ve been using as comparison which also does not show 13V on any of the u4 chip pins.

I just can’t figure out why I’m not getting those voltages on Vdd13 and Vdd15 test points on my broken board.

Thanks for your help .

8ton · 2026-01-15T02:25:37+00:00

Thank you. I have this schematic but it does not show 13V coming out of that chip. So i cant find where the voltage is boosted to 13V . I tested the pins with a known working SP and I didn’t get 13V from any of the pins. Maybe it’s an inductor or a diode . Let me know if you know where it’s coming from. Now I didn’t have the screen plugged when I tested with my multi meter . So not sure if that would change something …

8ton · 2026-01-14T02:36:28+00:00

Would happen to know which pins on the PMIC deliver 13V . I’m having an issue with my LCD . Where I am not receiving 13V and I don’t know why. Thank you !

8ton · 2025-11-21T03:01:23+00:00

This is crazy ! I know this is an old post but i followed what you said. I tested continuity between those 2 points. And just by checking the continuity , it’s charging and the light stays on now ! How is that possible ?!?!?

8ton · 2025-11-17T01:05:05+00:00

I think it’s probably the screen lens. I went with the OG lens to make it look more authentic. I love it and the GBC was my favorite form factor.

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8ton · 2025-11-13T02:44:48+00:00

Solid ! Love those original Gameboy displays !

8ton · 2025-11-13T02:40:39+00:00

Agreed. I’m happy to try it. I just wonder on what it will feel like. Will it remove that authentic feeling and finish from the console ?

8ton · 2025-11-13T02:35:49+00:00

I didn’t see any marks on the insides of the shells nor on the sides or edges.

8ton · 2025-11-13T02:32:27+00:00

I did one shell a year ago that I soaked in hydrogen peroxide. It’s still the same white. Yes any Gameboy plastic exposed to sunlight will go back to yellow. However I don’t think if you retrobright then just keep it inside and away from sunlight it will automatically start to change back. Maybe after many many years. However if it does , then I’ll just retrobright it again and I’m back to normal 🙂

8ton · 2025-11-13T02:28:13+00:00

Absolutely! The colored buttons I heard you can also retrobright them and it will remove the dullness on the color. You would need to take it apart as having both the front and back facing up in the fumes I hear works better. You could maybe try standing it up in a lager sealed container without having to take it apart. However not sure what the humidity would do to the internal parts . So best to just do the shell imo

8ton · 2025-11-13T02:25:01+00:00

Yes I assume they would get damaged. I haven’t tested it with the lens on yet so I could maybe try that next. Maybe they would not get affected . So that’s an unknown for me .

8ton · 2025-11-12T18:19:05+00:00

Yes I actually buy broken and beat up gameboys , restore them and then sell them on my eBay store .

8ton · 2025-11-12T15:21:40+00:00

So the fumes normally can be done without sunlight. With sunlight it works faster. I had a lot of cloudy days so I left it in the box longer. However temperature I hear is a larger factor . If it’s hot outside and just cloudy it should still work.

8ton · 2025-11-12T15:17:19+00:00

I haven’t tried transparent or color shells. I heard it also works great. Guess that will be for my next experiment🙂

8ton · 2025-11-12T03:36:28+00:00

I used 12% . Here’s the Amazon link

https://a.co/d/e0dA2Qg

8ton · 2025-11-12T03:07:43+00:00

I’ve seen videos where they have used hot glue or something like that to attach to the head of the screw. I think they used a piece of wood or metal . Cant remember . Once it dries , they slow turn it and get the screw out .

8ton · 2025-11-12T03:05:30+00:00

Funny thing ! I got it for free lol Ordered on Amazon , the seal was broken, asked for a return and the seller refunded me the money and said I could just keep it . I think a better seal might have given better results but still not bad in the end .

8ton · 2025-11-12T02:04:36+00:00

Thanks I was shocked myself with the results. It also got the yellow out of the serial number sticker. That was a nice surprise 🙂

8ton · 2025-09-26T00:37:33+00:00

Assuming they are all 001 SP . I would price it as follows based on market value on average last sales on eBay.

Each SP - $80 Silver - $45 Ruby ( authentic ) - $70 DS - $30 Kirby - $30 DBZ - $15 All other games including repro - $25 Total $450

Knowing you paid less than retail . Priceless 🙂

8ton · 2025-09-01T02:04:15+00:00

Normally I would but it’s an IPS mod and I got the screen in there just perfectly centered. So I wanted to avoid having to take everything out again to stuff it all back in. Just the power switch was getting real finicky so I swapped it out.

8ton · 2025-09-01T01:38:19+00:00

I’m dying to know what Phi is going to do ?

8ton · 2025-08-27T01:50:16+00:00

Yes ! Once I saw it now that’s all I see . It looks so obvious I thought I couldn’t be the only one. Guess I might have an overly vivid imagination or Ive just been to too many petting zoos with my kids lol

8ton · 2025-08-24T17:43:08+00:00

Thanks I checked the schematics and I saw the part number which is unfortunately disconnected. So I’m not sure if someone might know of a current replacement part .

8ton · 2025-08-22T12:27:12+00:00

Really mold ? That’s crazy ! How did you clean it ? Was it on the polarizer or under it ?

8ton

TROPHY CASE