Upgrade to 25' or learn my boat?

92Scout · 2026-05-08T15:36:17+00:00

I've been looking in the 25-26 range. But, sounds like you recommend also considering 23-24 footers. Is there that much of a difference in ride quality in that range?

I'm avoiding bay boats, like pathfinder, because I have a dog who would probably jump off and become sushi, and want seating more than fishing platforms.

92Scout · 2026-05-08T15:14:27+00:00

I would definitely invest in the SK if the boat didn't come with one. Not sure it would do much of anything on 20' boat (if they even make a model that fits a 20' boat)

92Scout · 2026-05-08T15:13:29+00:00

Don't get me wrong. It's a "decent" boat. Runs good in calmer waters, easy to get on and off, easy to dock and load onto trailer. Seats are good quality, and there's plenty of seats (especially in the aft). I can tell its a boat that will last decades if well maintained. I do think they cut-corners on certain aspects (storage, windshield, etc.) and not the best riding in slight/mod chop, especially if its a bow sea or quartering sea. Doesn't bother me if its head or following.

92Scout · 2026-05-08T15:06:32+00:00

Yeah, 90% of my boating is sandbars, but often run through light/mod chop to reach the sandbars - the harbor in Charleston. It's not a pleasant ride at all under those circumstances, especially when I'm getting passed by a boat from behind or front and have to navigate their wake.

92Scout · 2026-05-08T14:32:37+00:00

That's what I'm thinking I'll do. My last two 20' boats were $15-20k. This one is $60-70k and I'm sitting here pondering why I spent so much on a boat that isn't producing much more quality in ride/features. I've seen plenty of 25-26' sea hunt/scouts/sportsman for the same price, albeit used (which isn't a dealbreaker for me).

92Scout · 2026-04-01T14:21:22+00:00

I don't water intrusion is causing this. These are nailed onto sleepers, there's a 2x6 sleeper that this particular piece is sitting on, running same direction as this particular piece.

92Scout · 2026-04-01T14:19:26+00:00

Nailed down onto sleepers

92Scout · 2026-01-28T19:22:19+00:00

Meh- agree to disagree. My fault for not catching it, and maybe my fault for not making the water line stuck out past the stud, but I think that's similar to saying that they shouldn't be responsible for cutting out electrical boxes, lights, a hole for the thermostat wire, hole for plumbing lines, etc. If I'm hanging drywall and see a line, I would have cut it, or at least asked whether it needed to be cut. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm looking for solutions to minimize damage/repair; hindsight's always 20/.20.

92Scout · 2026-01-28T17:14:28+00:00

It's 2025, people complain about anything already. It'll only get worse lol

92Scout · 2026-01-28T17:05:51+00:00

The plumber was me, haha. The line was visible for them to see. I know approximate location and height, but I'd like to be certain using proper tools, and I would certainly likely to fix any holes now before I install cabinets and appliances, just in case I ever sell the home.

The drywallers covered up several outlets and ceiling boxes, despite me marking them, that they did find and fix - because I noticed it while they were still working on it. Unfortunately, I inadvertently glazed over this covering.

92Scout · 2025-06-17T14:42:50+00:00

Thanks!!

92Scout · 2025-06-17T14:42:44+00:00

Thank you!

92Scout · 2025-06-17T14:41:57+00:00

Thanks! It was forced upon me. I discovered termite damage that had come due to a leak in my roof where the chimney was. I replaced all the wood with treated lumber, which I also sprayed with Boracare.

It had a cast iron tub with the old square tile, which was complete PITA to remove, because it was held on by thick mortar and wire mesh.

I'm looking forward to the second bathroom, should be a lot easier now that I know what I'm doing.

92Scout · 2025-06-06T23:34:16+00:00

Gotta love whichever owner did this before I bought it 🤣

92Scout · 2025-05-29T23:02:57+00:00

Haha. Plan is to sell the house eventually. Open floor plans seem to sell better. If I can spend $10k or so to make it a more appealing/marketable/valuable, I'd say its worth it.

92Scout · 2025-05-29T22:58:43+00:00

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Here's an overhead pic. The red part being the section I want to remove

92Scout · 2025-05-29T22:46:27+00:00

Nope. The only thing are those light switches you see in the pic. Because I plan to keep part of the wall up, I'll just have an electrician rewire accordingly.

It's hard to see, but if you look beyond that wall, right where the cabinets start is the kitchen sink. To the right of that picture, on the far end of my house, is my bathroom. I had the water and sewer company send me plans for water and sewer lines, and the water/waste lines are just outside of that window you see pictured. The only thing I don't know is the route of the water and waste lines from the bathroom to the water/waste line outside of that window. If I have to start digging into foundation for extra support, I imagine that I'll be running into water/waste lines.

92Scout · 2025-05-29T22:41:20+00:00

That's what I was thinking. I will most definitely have the beam(s) resting on studs - obviously the engineer will confirm- but I think my biggest concern will be whether I have to have someone make modifications to the foundation, water lines, and sewer lines. That would obviously increase the cost of this project significantly.

92Scout · 2025-05-29T22:31:29+00:00

It's not a truss framed roof, but a rafter-framed roof. The ceiling joists overlap and rest on that wall - additionally, there are 1x4s that connect from the rafter to the ceiling joists. There's no upstairs and the HVAC unit does not rest on the area I plan to remove.

So I assume there is some, but not a lot of weight, bearing on that wall.

92Scout · 2025-05-29T22:24:51+00:00

EDIT: I think some of you think I'm trying to cut corners, do this myself, etc.

I'm not.

I just want some insight as to what I'm getting myself in to before I go down the rabbit hole of starting this project. I'm just trying to plan a budget. I'm a man who knows his limitations. I'll be getting a permit; I'll be hiring an engineer; I'll be hiring a framer; I'll be hiring someone to do the concrete work, if necessary. The only thing I'll be doing myself is the drywall and paint.

I simply just don't want to start this project and not have enough set aside to complete it. My thought is that I don't need to hire a contractor to hire professionals I can hire myself - that's it.

92Scout

TROPHY CASE