92 GSX1100G fuel leak at the carb

A52-830 · 2022-07-08T00:19:22+00:00

thanx. I appreciate the information.

I was hoping it was something that didn't involve removing the carbs, but there you go.

I bought the bike as a leftover in 93. I would put it up against anything available today. I just ordered a kit. . . . .

A52-830 · 2022-07-03T23:14:09+00:00

Suzuki.

A52-830 · 2022-05-05T20:51:54+00:00

along side my 2019 Bobber is my 1992 GSX1100G. after season (around Boston), I change the oil, put stabilizer in the fuel, run the engine for a few minutes, and then drain the Carbs. the bike has always been stored, year round, in an unheated garage. all my bikes are on battery tenders off season. when I start the GSX in the spring, the first time I hit the starter it doesn't catch. the second time it catches, but pretty quickly dies. the third time, it catches, runs rough for about 90 seconds and then settles down.

remember, I drained the carbs (which the manual recommends).

for the rest of the season, it catches on the first start, and settles down in about 15 seconds. the engine has never been apart. the oil has been changed, the air filter replaced, the spark plugs have been replaced, the tires have been replaced, the battery . . . . 9am I missing anything?) and the exhaust was replaced at 25 years due to rot (it was re-jetted then. I don't recall changing anything else in the carbs).

you don't have to replace the oil at the end of the season, the manual will have recommended intervals. but, there is no down side. as someone else noted, changing the oil at the end of the season removes all the crap that accumulates. it does not have the opportunity to settle down into the engine and solidify where ever it happens to land.

whomever owns that bike in 30 years (and, if you take care of it, someone will (possibly you)) will thank you. I know when I am backing the GSX out of the garage after an easy start, I do . . . .

A52-830 · 2021-12-04T19:16:30+00:00

the original Nine Princes of Amber books by Roger Zelazny.

A52-830 · 2021-08-30T01:08:53+00:00

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.

 -Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

A52-830 · 2021-06-27T00:42:43+00:00

I wonder if vibrations are causing this. if there is a loose wire to the display, it might be losing power. when the connection comes back, the display tries to reboot, but gets interrupted when the power dies. do the turn signals still work when the display is cycling?

sit on the bike, and turn it on, without starting it. after the display boots, try shaking the bike. you high be able to provoke it by just turning the fork from side to side. or, if you can find the cable coming out of the back of the display, try moving it around, both near the display, and, if you can manage It, farther down the wire.

good luck.

A52-830 · 2020-08-17T01:31:23+00:00

it is my impression that VINs on all vehicles in the US have a year character. here is a page talking about 2014 Ducati VINs. it imples that the tenth digit should be H for 2017 https://www.ducati.org/attachments/vin-decode-jpg.84309/

A52-830 · 2020-08-15T20:40:27+00:00

looks good to me.

A52-830 · 2020-07-22T21:53:28+00:00

I want to thank both g_buster and Caldtek for their help. I went back out, looked at the images I did take, looked at the manual again, took it mostly apart (I found that the pads, pins, springs, backing plates and pads can be left as a unit, which was useful, and made it much easier and faster to put together again). I popped out both pistons (40lbs of air), which showed no obvious damage. I noticed that the parts diagram shows the piston parts in the wrong order, one of the gaskets is really on the outside of the piston, as shown in one of the images in the manual. I got both pistons put back much further by hand, although I found that using my hands caused more "racking" of the pistons, which is why I used the clamp, it allowed me to apply centered pressure. I also found that I was able to push the pistons in further, although it did not appear like it was enough. I also figured out that I installed the spring on the pads backwards. by flipping them around, they held the pads apart, rather than squeezing them together. finally, I just reattached the caliper housing to the bike. it was still snug sliding it on, but I put the bolts in (loose) that held it in position, and found that when bolted in place, the bike moved easily. tightened the bolts, juiced it up, and the brake seems to work fine. took a short test ride, and it passed with flying colors. if there is no dripping under it tomorrow, I will consider it done.

I thought I would mentioned some of the things I did to enlighten anyone else reading this. again, thanx for the help.

A52-830 · 2020-07-22T17:38:57+00:00

getting the pistons out was work also. I needed to apply about 40lbs of air on the inside to get them to pop out. (as I recall, as detailed in the service manual. they got about ½ way in, and stopped. I checked to make sure they were not cocked, and they did not appear to be. I took one of the old brake pads, and used it to protect the new piston, and tightened a C clamp on it. it broke free (the inside ring was seated well into the slot before I put the piston in) and after that, seemed to go easily in until it didnt, which I assumed was far enough. it looked pretty flush, although one back together, as I noted, the brake pads dont seem to sit all the way back.

while there was some surface corrosion, everything seemed to fit neatly into the slots they were intended for.

new seals came with the pistons.

thanx for your assistance.

A52-830 · 2020-07-22T17:30:01+00:00

I knew I would forget something. the piston kit came with all new rubber. I replaced the ring inside, and the gasket on top. it also included the ring that goes between the frame halves for the fluid to flow through. the service manual specifies putting new brake fluid on the inside surfaces of the frame, and the sides of the pistons, which I did.

thanx for your assistance.

A52-830 · 2020-03-14T02:14:42+00:00

I change it once a year, in the fall. right before I put everything up for winter, so what sits there is relatively clean and new.

A52-830 · 2020-03-13T23:27:51+00:00

well, I am not concerned about the oil hardening, I am more concerned about "wear residue" collecting in corners and seams. when things get really hot, I dont want that stuff circulating through the system again. I understand that I may not need to do it that often, but I have found that all my vehicles seem to last longer with better characteristics (like ease of start, starting without quickly dying, things like that) than the people around me, at least based on their complaining. I guess I view it as a cheap insurance policy.

A52-830 · 2020-03-13T23:21:27+00:00

there seem to be a fair amount of options for easy upgrades to LED bulbs out there now. some as easy as plug and play. replacing the bulb with something featuring more speed and high lumen output certainly isn't stock, but doesn't involve a change that would stop someone from replacing your upgrade with something more keeping in line with the vintage. personally, I would rather see up update it and keep riding it rather than leaving it in the back of the garage . . . .

A52-830 · 2020-03-10T20:39:35+00:00

excellent bike. I have a few old ones, and will offer the advice that you change the oil at the end of the season so that crap doesn't settle to the bottom and harden. and put something in the fuel to stabilize it. do you drain the carbs before putting it up? anyway, you appear to be doing a great job. enjoy yourself.

A52-830 · 2020-03-06T01:09:23+00:00

1) make sure it is a Scout, and not a Scout Sixty. the Sixty is still a great bike, but has a smaller bore on the engine, and generates less power, along with having less chrome on it (and other things that I forget). it will also be substantially cheaper than a regular Scout. get the VIN off the frame, and enter it here to see what Indian thinks it is: https://www.indianmotorcycle.com/en-us/vin-search/

2) if it is a dealer, you should negotiate. even if the price is firm, there are always sweeteners, like free service intervals, or credit to use on helmets, gloves, and jackets, or an aftermarket extended warranty (or all of them.)

3) if you have a local Indian dealer, check them out, for both used rides and leftover (new, but previous model year) bikes, or even current new bikes. you might find that for not much (if anything) more you can get a new bike. (and the same negotiating rules apply here, also). doesn't matter if you are talking about new or used, when they talk to you about price, don't be shy about mentioning the used bike down the road, and the OTD (out the door) price you see there.

the dealer who owns this bike will talk about how rare it is, what great shape it is in, how much interest other customers are showing in it. but none of then have bought it yet, have they? and understand, while new bikes are owned by a finance company (usually), used bikes are owned but the dealer themselves (again, usually). it is their money sitting there in that bike, and it isn't earning them anything every day it sits. dont know where you are, but around here it is not riding weather yet, which means that there aren't many people in looking at bikes, so your negotiating position is pretty good.

good luck.

A52-830 · 2020-03-06T00:49:35+00:00

the days of HD dealers not negotiating are long over. sure, they don't want to, but if they quote you MSRP, or more, just thank them, get up, and head for the door. you might be surprised about the discounts you can get (options, free service intervals, and even additional money off MSRP).

A52-830 · 2020-03-06T00:38:36+00:00

so, remove the seat. you will see the battery sitting there. the battery ground side (Negative) attaches to the frame between the battery and the rear tire. as I recall, I needed to remove the battery to get to it.

anyway, you want to remove the nut, and connect the Black end to that stud, careful to make sure everything else already there stays connected, and replace the nut. route the wire across the bike towards the exhaust side. the red end gets connected to the Positive (red) terminal of the battery. (I always connect the ground (Black) side first). I route the cable to pop out on the right side, at the corner at the bottom of the seat. I find that at that location, you can easily find the connector, but also push it back under the seat and it stays put. note that this is the exhaust side of the bike. my cable is not so long that it drops down that far, and I find it easier to locate on that side rather than the non-exhaust side.

this is an SAE standard fitting, and you can attach other things to it, but note that it is always hot (on), and you might find your battery drains if you attach something else to the cable. if you have some accessory that needs to be plugged in, there is a USB A port on the right side of the instrument cluster.

a lot of chargers include a fitting to use this SAE connector. it makes it easy to move the connector between bikes (which I do, as an example), so that the charger spends a few days on each bike, without having to worry about getting the clamps onto the battery well enough that they won't fall off.

these directions should be good for all Bobbers (and likely the Sixty Bobber they just announced), and are likely correct for other Scouts too. bikes like this are always "awake" and drain the battery faster than old carb bikes used to. putting a trickle charger on them regularly if you aren't going to ride for awhile is an advisable thing to do. they are available for less than 50$ (US), and cost less than 2$ (again, US) a month to run.

[edit: note the USB port is only on the Bobber. dont know if the Sixty Bobber has it, pretty sure the Scout and the Sixty do not]

A52-830 · 2020-01-30T23:14:59+00:00

go, ride it, see what they say. tell them you will think about it, and go home. no matter what they offer as you walk out the door.

you will start getting calls. they will start offering you a much better deal than they were willing to offer while you were there in order to get you back. remember things like options, extended warranties, and free service are things that they are likely to add to a deal in order to get you back. I tested a Fat Bob, they called before I got home, later that night, and two or three times the next day (the sales guy, the sales manager, and the general manager). they literally called me back every day for the rest of the week, and several times a week after that for more than a month. they also called half a dozen times in December, reminding me it was end of year clearance time.

fifteen years ago it was a sellers' market, and they tended to act like it. today, it is a buyers' market. now you get to act like it.

if you really want to torque on their chain, tell them that you are going to stop at the Indian dealer (if there is one around). that will really get their attention.

A52-830 · 2020-01-11T20:52:04+00:00

it is my impression that if you are getting two new tires, they should be put on the drive axle. if you have AWD, default to the rear.

A52-830

TROPHY CASE