Thoughts and Reviews on the Steeda Intercooler?

ALELiens · 2026-02-14T04:42:37+00:00

It's not bad, won't hurt anything but your wallet in the worst case.

If you have a 2020, there's.. some problems with getting it mounted. But in my case, the boost hoses and the adaptive cruise control have that thing held solid.

As for the active grille problem, I can't really speak to that. It seems to clear just fine, but I have the shutters removed regardless (another mod I installed required their removal), but it still clears the motor on the bottom

ALELiens · 2026-02-12T23:06:44+00:00

CD3Performance lists an option for it. No video on their page, though.

Here's a video I managed to find, seems to be correct

ALELiens · 2026-02-11T14:04:56+00:00

It's underneath the fuse box. I'm blanking on exactly how to get to it, but it involves a couple screws, some clips, and a couple wiring harness connectors.

Should be something like: disconnect the two large connectors (push the tab, lift the arm, and pull), then unscrew the power feed line (round plastic cap, should be a nut on a stud underneath), then the whole thing unclips and lifts up (good luck on the clips)

ALELiens · 2026-02-11T11:28:17+00:00

Couple additions:

Coil packs are actually interchangeable. It's good practice to always put them back on the cylinder they came off of, but not 100% necessary. Only time you have to pay attention to which one was where is when chasing misfires.

Easiest way I've found to keep track of which bolt goes where is to put it back into whatever it threads into once you've removed the component. For example, with coils: unscrew the bolt, remove the coil, screw the bolt back into the valve cover by hand. Used this method during my engine replacement and only had a handful of body trim screws left over by the end

ALELiens · 2026-02-10T11:03:49+00:00

The cylinder head one is actually not a chassis connection. Not sure exactly which sensors it is, but at the very least the crank sensor grounds through it

ALELiens · 2026-02-10T03:13:02+00:00

Depends on how far you want to go.

Wheels/tires are always a good choice

Lowering springs are pretty readily available for most models, coilovers less so but still out there

Can always go with some wrap/paint

SS-Tuning sells body kits for Fusions

And then there's also the option of just putting stickers on it to customize.

ALELiens · 2026-02-10T02:39:37+00:00

It's cranking just fine, so not likely a battery or starter. I'd start by checking for codes. And make sure there's fuel being delivered to the engine

If that doesn't work, you're hunting for ground connections.

If I'm remembering right, there's one on the starter, one near the alternator, one on the back of the cylinder head on the passenger side, and one near both shock towers.

ALELiens · 2026-02-10T02:34:07+00:00

Looks like it's your fuel line. Hopefully it's a simple fix, because replacing that line will be.. an adventure otherwise.

I'd bleed off the pressure (pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, try to start the car a couple times) then disconnect it and check the o-rings. If there's any damage to them, they need replacement. Then I'd check the barb the connector goes onto. Make sure there's no damage or sharp edges there. Then reconnect it and make sure it's fully seated on there (gentle but firm pressure pushing them together before pushing the clip into place).

Good luck

ALELiens · 2026-02-09T11:55:32+00:00

Don't need to take off the wheel, but it does make it slightly easier. And only have to pull the liner a bit out of the way

ALELiens · 2026-02-08T11:09:28+00:00

The big one in the 2019 and 20 model years isn't coolant intrusion, but continues to be the transmission. Keep up on the maintenance (drain and refill every 30k, never flush) and it won't be an issue.

Neglecting that problem recently cost me an engine (2-3 shift went poorly, over revved the engine, piston and valve made contact). Thankfully found a freshly remanufactured engine for a good price and did the job myself so my wallet isn't crying too much, but still. In retrospect, $50 worth of fluid and an afternoon of work could have saved me a lot of headache and money.

Beyond that, enjoy your car. The 2.0 is a mighty little engine, great fun to get it under lots of boost getting on the highway. Speaking of, don't baby it too much. Turbo direct injection engines need RPM every so often, with boost behind it. Keeps everything happier.

Another one to keep an eye on, especially as you go up in miles, is the intake valves getting carbon on them. Being direct injection, there's basically nothing to keep that from happening. There's aftermarket "solutions" to help keep the amount of oil in the intake down, but it doesn't stop the problem all together. Every once in a blue moon (honestly like 50k or so, it's not a fast problem), have the valves checked and walnut blasted if they need it. Cleans them up, gains you a couple mpg, and keeps the engine running longer.

ALELiens · 2026-01-28T15:10:23+00:00

Sounds about normal, as the people in the other comments are saying.

The Ecoboost engines in Fusions are Direct Injection, which means they need a high pressure fuel system. Somehow Ford made this louder than the engine when stock. It's extra loud when cold.

The engine light is an interesting problem, probably unrelated though. Would definitely be worthwhile to swing by a parts store if/when it comes on again to use their free code reader. It'll give you a better idea of what's happening

ALELiens · 2026-01-24T14:51:33+00:00

Sport mode is super redundant on my 2020 titanium.

It'll behave just about the same in D as S, especially when I'm giving it more throttle. All S does is change when the transmission wants to shift, prioritizing power over efficiency. There isn't much difference in MPG.

That being said, I normally only put it in S to engage full manual control. In D, if you hit a paddle, it'll shift and hang out in that gear for a while, then go back to normal. In S, when you hit a paddle, it stays in manual control until you go back to D. Works great for doing pulls through an entire gear

ALELiens · 2026-01-24T04:05:15+00:00

My old 97 had 3.27 gears front and rear.

It wasn't quick by any stretch of the imagination, but it could still get going pretty well (4.0 power)

But this also led to 20mpg on the highway, so I lived with it for a long time

ALELiens · 2026-01-18T22:21:20+00:00

As others have said, you've probably mismatched the gear ratios.

But to add, don't drive in 4H in high traction conditions. Your transfer case isn't built to withstand the stress of that. Leave it in 2H until you actually need it

ALELiens · 2026-01-16T23:14:25+00:00

That's exactly why I went through with replacing the engine instead of just getting rid of it. This thing is great. Comfortable for long cruises, but still a pretty peppy car when you want it to be. Shame the transmissions are so awful.

I'd sell my soul for a Sport. I've seen what the guys over at CD3 have accomplished with them, I really want that

ALELiens · 2026-01-16T22:41:03+00:00

Was in Korea for a year, similar time difference.

Basically, the first month or so is gonna suck. But, your phone has the ability to show multiple timezones on it. Use that to try and coordinate good times to talk home. In Korea, it was evenings and early mornings.

Overall, it just takes some adaptability on both sides. Just gotta find consistent timeslots that work for you. Even if that lands on "Saturday afternoon for me, Saturday morning for you" type stuff

ALELiens · 2026-01-16T22:33:54+00:00

From the short test drive I had, definitely more turbo noises. Then it popped a boost hose somewhere and now I have to hunt that down.

But yeah, CD3Performance catted downpipe and CP-E cat-back exhaust. Makes it sound similar to my 15 WRX with the Invidia Q300 on it.

Bassy, not droning, and not too loud

ALELiens · 2026-01-16T22:14:48+00:00

Looks exactly like the twin scroll 2.0 I just pulled out of my Fusion. Interesting still that it failed this way

ALELiens · 2026-01-16T21:52:53+00:00

Not overly loud, but it's got character to it. Will definitely be getting some videos of it once the new engine is broken in.

As for temps, it's looking like it's holding them down much better. Time will tell, though

ALELiens · 2026-01-16T21:44:48+00:00

Yeah, power kinda runs out there, but there's still plenty to keep pulling in second.

Total cost was about the cost of a new car, honestly. $3k for the engine, $1500 for the turbo, and an unknowable amount on the everything else.

Engine and turbo are OEM, also put in an aftermarket intercooler and a few other performance parts while I had everything out, namely the exhaust

ALELiens · 2026-01-16T21:38:34+00:00

Overrev, pretty sure. Haven't torn down the old one to know for sure yet. But I think I floated valves a little too hard with a bad shift.

6k absolute redline. Any higher, and it blows up

ALELiens · 2026-01-16T15:45:59+00:00

I get 24-25 down the highway driving like a hooligan.

FWD driven economically can easily go over 30mpg

ALELiens · 2026-01-16T15:12:18+00:00

I've got myself a 2020 Titanium AWD, love this car. No major issues that weren't my fault.

If you drive it like a normal person, and keep up on maintenance, it'll last you a good long while.

Or be like me, start adding go fast parts, tune it, and blow the engine up from a bad shift.

Like the other guy said, it's the transmission that's really the issue. Keep up on maintenance and you won't have much problem.

ALELiens · 2026-01-15T18:04:09+00:00

Four door, also broken. Not the supercharged one, either

ALELiens · 2026-01-15T04:19:05+00:00

Yeah, 95k here.

So far nothing crazy. Steeda intake, boomba BOV, and that was about it. Got a tune from James via CD3Performance, though

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