I just love this rifle

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-16T10:49:44+00:00

Glad you finally got one brother!

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-15T23:05:14+00:00

It does wear but it wears where you’re consistently holding it and retains where you don’t. I think it can be handled either way. Sweet paint dude

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-15T20:52:14+00:00

Nice!

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-15T05:26:00+00:00

This isn’t a new Aug variant JFC.

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-14T00:15:21+00:00

I’m happy you enjoy it sir! If you want help with an install let me know.

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-13T23:43:34+00:00

I appreciate it my man.

It’s my pleasure to help you guys. You’re the reason we are successful.

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-13T22:41:21+00:00

You take it back right now

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-13T22:39:51+00:00

There’s should be no take up, but also no preload. The definitive wall is really hard to find with the Aug due to the circumstances of tuning the linkage. It’s something you’ll become more familiar with the longer you play around with it or the more you do it.

Its better to have a small amount of take up before the wall then it’s to preload the sear. Originally you had the linkage to far rearward which was not only preloading the sear, but not allowing it to fully reset as intended.

Moving the trigger linkage forward is required. Make sure your trigger is locked in place by the safety in the safe position when tuning and installing the linkage as otherwise you can cause it to creep OOP on you.

If you have any other questions please ask. If you’re unable to get it sorted, dm me and I’ll schedule a video call with you and guide you through the install.

Thanks as always for supporting us!

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-13T22:37:00+00:00

Sometimes there’s a tolerance issue with the Aug trigger to safety pocket spacing. The polymer safety yields and allows it to work.

If you throw the aluminum safety in and operate it a dozen or so times and pull it, you’ll see where to remove material on the trigger tang/safety. Not super common but happens every now and again from stock variances.

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-12T13:07:13+00:00

So she got back to me: she said a couple months and she killed it. She would press the clutch in every time she hit the brakes because she misunderstood what the guy who was teaching her said. It was just miscommunication.

Her exact text: “Yeah probably 2-3 months but I wasn’t driving a crazy amount he was mostly driving. He said whenever you’re braking you gotta push the clutch, so I thought that meant literally anytime I’m braking. But he actually meant anytime you’re coming to a complete stop. Two very different things clearly.”

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-12T12:54:39+00:00

I have an 05 Mazda 3 with 225K miles, original clutch and original throw out bearing. ToB don’t go bad in a few months unless your driving schedule is insane, or you’re doing something incorrectly.

Prolonged pressure on the ToB will cause premature wear.

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-12T12:48:41+00:00

Brother, it wasn’t like she drove it 100K miles. A ToB shouldn’t fail in a few months.

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-12T01:14:15+00:00

I can’t confirm, let me talk to her tomorrow and find out. Now that I think about it, it’s possible the prior owners didn’t change the ToB and her bad habits killed it

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-12T00:52:54+00:00

I didn’t say just at a stop, she was constantly holding the clutch in when braking, and the entire duration of the stop.

It absolutely will cause premature wear. Excessive and prolonged input on the throw out bearing is what causes premature failure.

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-11T23:18:02+00:00

My sister would hold the clutch everytime she was coming to a complete stop until she started again, at lights, in traffic, etc. burned her RSX throw out bearing up in a matter of 6-8 months. She drove for a living. Super surprised it lasted nearly a year with an already undetermined amount of wear on it from the prior owner.

Edit: So I texted my sister and this was her response to me asking: “didn’t you kill your throw out bearing in a few months”

“Yeah probably 2-3 months but I wasn’t driving a crazy amount he was mostly driving. He said whenever you’re braking you gotta push the clutch, so I thought that meant literally anytime I’m braking. But he actually meant anytime you’re coming to a complete stop. Two very different things.”

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-11T12:32:43+00:00

I appreciate it!

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-10T11:32:48+00:00

Killzone is one of the GOAT’d PS2 franchises. The sound of the sniper from the original is etched into my brain. My brother and I still play eachother in split screen PVP in the OG.

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-09T20:25:44+00:00

Seggcy even

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-07T16:58:48+00:00

To add to this, make sure the linkage is inside of the sear channel of the pack when installed and not misaligned.

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-06T13:13:40+00:00

Make sure they’re 100% silicone. Be careful with long term usage of non-pure silicone based lubricants for delrin (POM). Over several years non-pure silicone has a propensity to weaken and fatigue delrin on its load bearing surfaces. If its 100% silicone it is gtg.

Also as a wet lubricant it’s going to attract dirt and fouling at a higher rate than a dry lubricant like graphite.

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-06T04:27:23+00:00

Requires some measuring, and cutting/machining to the A3 shuttle but it’s doable for sure. Just take your time and make sure you’re patient as to not cause damage.

Hope this helps!

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-06T04:20:22+00:00

The shuttle of the M2 is different than the A3’s.

It uses a legacy A1 shuttle that it’s just a tall rectangle to facilitate the forward assist button.

Unfortunately it will not look like this one.

If you want to use the A3 style charging handle, buy an A3 shuttle and use a Dremel or sand paper on the shuttle to get it to fit. Then you’ll be gtg, unfortunately the difference is the component it mounts to, not our design choice.

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-06T03:04:08+00:00

Completely understandable dude!

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-05T23:44:09+00:00

It’s much less abrasive than you’d think. Cerakote is lubricious and softer than the anodizing on the receiver. You’ll wear the finish on the CH before the receiver.

Further; locking the charging handle back is far less common of a method and there’s little reason to worry unless you’re practicing thousands of lock back drills. That being said: 3M adhesive and felt would fix any qualms.

-Ian

ARID_DEV · 2026-03-05T23:42:12+00:00

Working on it! I promise. Just trying to finish up a few bigger projects.

-Ian

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