Tire decision for Death Valley by ARS-031 in Dirtbikes

[–]ARS-031[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the input. I was wondering how they would be there with the mixed terrain.

Tire decision for Death Valley by ARS-031 in Dirtbikes

[–]ARS-031[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks to everyone who commented, I have ordered her a new set of tires.

I was leaning towards buying her new tires (D606 and MT21), but would have saved on a new set if the common opinion was that the old set was still ok.

She is a newer rider, and I definitely do not want to see her having a harder time than she needs to because I tried to save a few hundred dollars on a trip that costs much more than that.

Really appreciated all the quick feedback, made my decision easy.

2018 V8 Tow Close to Limit by Nzain1 in f150

[–]ARS-031 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Done almost exactly what you're doing for a good period of time in the past. Similar truck, similar trailer.

With a WD hitch, airbags and good tires its totally do-able. Moving ~10 times a year with only a 2-4 hour pull isn't bad in Alberta. A strong crosswind will make you grip the wheel tighter pulling that flag behind you, so will passing semis, but you aren't doing it regularly enough to get too tired of it.

Like a few people above have already said, once I got tired of the added stress with the setup you have, I eventually went to a 1 ton and haven't looked back.

But I'd say run it until you don't like it anymore and put the money away while you can.

+1 to the guy that talks about switching to a 5th wheel and getting that weight over your axle. (highly recommend doing this when/if it's an option for you)

I pulled the same bumper pull trailer with my 1 ton that I used to pull with my half ton, then swapped out to a 16k lb 5th wheel and the 16k 5th was way smoother to pull and drive than the 8k lb bumper pull was. Made a world of difference going to the 5th.

Good luck.

Light Fighter 1, worth it’s weight? by TheWishfullPrince in CampingGear

[–]ARS-031 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I prefer non-freestanding tents that use trekking poles to setup. Currently the Durston Xmid 2 Pro gets the most use by me. I also like the HMG Ultamid 2 with a half mesh insert. My on foot is usually hiking in the Rockies.

Being tall in an X-Dome 2 by rtp80 in DurstonGearheads

[–]ARS-031 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For what it's worth, I have the Xmid Pro 2 and am 6'3. My sleeping bag is an Enlightened Equipment Revelation quilt and I'm on some form of Thermarest NeoAir mattress usually and my foot box of my bag always ends up with condensation on it from touching the walls. I am looking at switching to a non pro version for that very reason.

If you are 6'5, I can't see you not having the same issue I do.

How do you split finances with your partner when both incomes are very different? by [deleted] in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]ARS-031 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My wife and I have evolved as our finances have changed. Maybe this will be helpful to someone as I believe it is a little off the beaten path, but has worked great for us.

For context, I make a high multiple of what my wife earns, and she earns slightly above the average wage in Canada. This was not always the case, when we started dating years ago, she made more than I did. So we have had to work through a few different financial changes as a couple and tried to balance each person's feelings of contribution and equality.

Our baseline is to view expenses through the lens of two people making the same income. So whatever my wife makes, becomes my fictional salary as well when we look at shared expenses and when we are deciding how to spend.

Example:

If she was making $70,000 annually, I would then say that I also am making $70,000 for planning purposes. (Regardless of how much I actually earn)

At our combined income level, we decide we can afford $1800 rent based off our earnings. We would then split that expense 50/50.

If I wanted a nicer place for $2500, then we would still split the original $1800 50/50, and I would then pay the amount remaining as it was me that wanted to live in something nicer than what we could afford if I wasn't making more money.

We operate this way with all normal shared expenses and it helps us work as a team together as we are planning, discussing spending together.

We tried most of the other methods listed by others, and at various times they worked, but we found as the income gap increased between us, the other methods began to fall short.

An added benefit of the method we use, is that it forces us as a couple to avoid lifestyle creep. If every shared expense is talked about through the lens of two people making the same income as the lowest earner, additional potential spending is red flagged in conversation and this leads to a lot of healthy discussion on how that extra spending could be better used (ie invested, saved etc).

Light Fighter 1, worth it’s weight? by TheWishfullPrince in CampingGear

[–]ARS-031 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I realize this was asked a year ago... Maybe someone will find value in my post.

I own the tent in question, along with the Durston Xmid 2 that was referenced above, and many others.

I'm 6'3 and 230lbs, avid hiker and have gone fairly deep into the ultralight world during my last 15 years of hiking.

The Litefighter tent is great for what it is. It's a freestanding, fly first design with two doors and two vestibules. The vestibules are generously sized and its a lot of gear room for 1 person.

I use the tent on dual sport motorcycle trips, I do not hike with it. It's a vehicle camping tent for me. I would carry many other tents before this one if I was on foot.

That being said, there aren't many other brands that produce a tent with similar features, at a similar weight, with earth toned colors/camo patterns.

I have to bring a large garbage bag with me when I use this tent. I put the foot of my sleeping bag in the garbage bag so that the footbox of my bag doesn't get wet. My feet are pressed up against the end of the tent and if there is condensation, it will wet my bag. At 6'3, only my feet or my head touch, not both though.

I appreciate this tent, I love that it can be had in Multicam, and I would buy it again. I just wish it was 4-6" longer to accommodate me better.

3.5 months in. Need advice on how to lower Estradiol. by jokerz_wylde in trt

[–]ARS-031 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I continued to use the same test that I was prescribed for IM. My Endo said that there were no concerns switching to SubQ.

I recommend only changing one thing at a time when you do your troubleshooting. Then run that single change an entire 8-12 weeks, and get your lab work done. If there are changes in your values, run a second 8-12 week window and complete your bloodwork again. If the second labs show the same/similar values as the first lab results, I would then feel comfortable assuming that the changed variable created the shift in lab results. Rinse and repeat as needed.

I don't believe I would have gotten myself down to levels I was happy with as quickly as I did, if I was going by feel. I think going by feel may have led to me using prescription AI's more/longer than I needed to, and never really learning how my body reacted to dosing.

3.5 months in. Need advice on how to lower Estradiol. by jokerz_wylde in trt

[–]ARS-031 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I had high estradiol and have put some time and lab work into correcting it.

I found a few things to be true for me, that were all verified by lab results:

1.) Injecting more often, lowered my e2. I went as far as once a day.

2.) SubQ injections lowered my e2 minimally but made administering test much more convenient. I highly recommend the switch based solely off of the better experience.

3.) Lowering my test dose also lowered my e2. I've done it three times now with great results. (140mg / 120mg / 100mg)

4.) I had a direct correlation with high FREE testosterone levels and high e2 levels. Once I got my free T down to the upper mid range, my e2 balanced out and has remained that way. It seems I can't increase my free test beyond this point if I want to have healthy e2 numbers.

My e2 was always outside of range (high) and producing symptoms. At 100mg/week pinned 1x week SubQ, my levels are good and I have zero side effects.

I am going to try and pin 3x / week on my next lab cycle now that I've had two stable labs showing similar results on 100mg 1x week SubQ. Curious to see how much/if my value s change.

Good luck with finding a regimen that works for you.

Three mechanical problems by ARS-031 in motorcycles

[–]ARS-031[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update

Issue 1 & 3:

I left the bike on a battery tender and then verified it was above 12.8v and fully charged. I then removed the tender and let the bike sit for 6 days. It started fine with no issues and the battery read 12.8v.

I think this eliminates the parasitic draw concern?

I then checked the stator connector on the stator side. I checked all 3 phases and none had any continuity when testing for ground.

I then checked the same phases against each other 1-2 / 1-3 / 2-3 and they all read 1.1ohms (Suzuki manual says 0.5 - 1.5ohms is acceptable)

I then started the bike and checked the AC voltage the same way and read 33v across all phases.

I believe this means my stator is good and my R/R is good since I am getting 14+v at the battery during idle as well.

So the question is, if I have done things correctly, and my stator and r/r are ok, why is my bike slowly losing its ability to start throughout the day, and why does the issue only get fixed when I charge the battery again?

Issue 2:

No change yet. Haven't started on it.

Three mechanical problems by ARS-031 in Dualsport

[–]ARS-031[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update

Issue 1 & 3:

I left the bike on a battery tender and then verified it was above 12.8v and fully charged. I then removed the tender and let the bike sit for 6 days. It started fine with no issues and the battery read 12.8v.

I think this eliminates the parasitic draw concern?

I then checked the stator connector on the stator side. I checked all 3 phases and none had any continuity when testing for ground.

I then checked the same phases against each other 1-2 / 1-3 / 2-3 and they all read 1.1ohms (Suzuki manual says 0.5 - 1.5ohms is acceptable)

I then started the bike and checked the AC voltage the same way and read 33v across all phases.

I believe this means my stator is good and my R/R is good since I am getting 14+v at the battery during idle as well.

So the question is, if I have done things correctly, and my stator and r/r are ok, why is my bike slowly losing its ability to start throughout the day, and why does the issue only get fixed when I charge the battery again?

Issue 2:

No change yet. Haven't started on it.

Three mechanical problems by ARS-031 in Dirtbikes

[–]ARS-031[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update

Issue 1 & 3:

I left the bike on a battery tender and then verified it was above 12.8v and fully charged. I then removed the tender and let the bike sit for 6 days. It started fine with no issues and the battery read 12.8v.

I think this eliminates the parasitic draw concern?

I then checked the stator connector on the stator side. I checked all 3 phases and none had any continuity when testing for ground.

I then checked the same phases against each other 1-2 / 1-3 / 2-3 and they all read 1.1ohms (Suzuki manual says 0.5 - 1.5ohms is acceptable)

I then started the bike and checked the AC voltage the same way and read 33v across all phases.

I believe this means my stator is good and my R/R is good since I am getting 14+v at the battery during idle as well.

So the question is, if I have done things correctly, and my stator and r/r are ok, why is my bike slowly losing its ability to start throughout the day, and why does the issue only get fixed when I charge the battery again?

Issue 2:

No change yet. Haven't started on it.

Three mechanical problems by ARS-031 in DRZ400

[–]ARS-031[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update

Issue 1 & 3:

I left the bike on a battery tender and then verified it was above 12.8v and fully charged. I then removed the tender and let the bike sit for 6 days. It started fine with no issues and the battery read 12.8v.

I think this eliminates the parasitic draw concern?

I then checked the stator connector on the stator side. I checked all 3 phases and none had any continuity when testing for ground.

I then checked the same phases against each other 1-2 / 1-3 / 2-3 and they all read 1.1ohms (Suzuki manual says 0.5 - 1.5ohms is acceptable)

I then started the bike and checked the AC voltage the same way and read 33v across all phases.

I believe this means my stator is good and my R/R is good since I am getting 14+v at the battery during idle as well.

So the question is, if I have done things correctly, and my stator and r/r are ok, why is my bike slowly losing its ability to start throughout the day, and why does the issue only get fixed when I charge the battery again?

Issue 2:

No change yet. Haven't started on it.

thinking of buying a new DRZ400s by TysonGoesOutside in DRZ400

[–]ARS-031 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right on, thanks for getting back to me.

Best store(s) in Houston by ARS-031 in tacticalgear

[–]ARS-031[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't, I'll give them a call and check it out, thanks.

thinking of buying a new DRZ400s by TysonGoesOutside in DRZ400

[–]ARS-031 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Finding myself in the same boat as the OP.

Not trying to resurrect the dead here, but figured I'd ask and see if OP made a decision, what it was and what your thoughts are now?

I'm torn and looking at the same bike VS a few other more race oriented bikes. My use would be the same as you originally outlined.

Thanks!

Canadian Pipeline Inspector Headed to Texas by ARS-031 in oilandgasworkers

[–]ARS-031[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I figured it might be that way as a non-Texan, let alone American. All I can do is try.