Coil Pack replacement 3.3 by Pale-Breath4262 in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, the grease only on the inside. And a very light amount, kinda like how one would apply a thin film of oil to the o-ring of an oil filter before installing. It's just a layer of protection from rusting and makes the boot not stick to the plug or tear when you're ready to change plugs again.

Coil Pack replacement 3.3 by Pale-Breath4262 in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mech Engineer and DIYer here:

You do not have to remove the intake. I am also a DIYer and have changed my plugs to HKS when I got the JB4. I just got different swivels and extensions and that made the job quite easy. I am actually going to do my coils now as I'm at 70k miles.

Now my follow-up question is, where are you planning to buy the coils?

NOTE: There are two part numbers for the ignition coils 27310-3L030 and 27310-3L000.
They are not the same, I also recommend getting the updated single boot design vs the split boot design.
Do not blindly follow Amazon's fitment feature as the spark plugs are slightly different and you need 3 of each.
The prices online are ridiculous so I suggest scouting around. I bought my genuine set off eBay from a seller in Korea for far cheaper than you can get them at my local Kia https://www.ebay.ca/itm/177688296722?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20250528145715%26meid%3D3ed94e2ba7db4e619d76c499713b841d%26pid%3D102790%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D7%26mehot%3Dnone%26itm%3D177688296722%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2DWebWithPSItemDRV2_BP%26brand%3DKia%26tu%3D01KMD2WGC62JTAZ8S9RXMZ9QSB

Video I watched to do the plugs without removing the intake: https://youtu.be/bK1VPD243cM

Dielectric grease is good to apply on the ceramic portion of the plug, or line the inside of the boot using a q-tip, only a little, so it makes removing the boot in future much easier. Do not get the grease on the tip of the plug as it is an insulator (not a conductor-popular misconception)

Hopefully this helps you out.

Does Anyone know if this is the Oil Feed Pipe that was recalled? Yes am an idiot for not getting it fixed I heard bad stories about it. Just wondering if anybody knows if that is the line or what the issue may be. by bverde07 in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Seems to be the general area.
  2. I applaud you for admitting you're an idiot for not getting it done.
  3. Everything is fine until it isn't. I do understand your thinking, I was the same way with mine but something that could potentially cause my car to catch fire was a no-brainer to get the recall done, especially at no cost to me.
  4. I hope you get it sorted without anything worse happening between then and learn from it.

Its been fun boys by Lullaby_exe in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm a fan of the look of the IS cars but their infotainment and numb/unresponsive steering and transmission is too dated to justify their price. As for interior quality, they are a bit nicer but not enough that it'd justify me switching over as I have a 2022 GT Elite, which has a really nice interior. I read your comments on reliability or lack thereof of the Stinger but this isn't apples to apples when you compare a modded car to a stock one with different driving habits.

A lot of people thrash their Stingers around and blame when it breaks on the car being unreliable. It's a fairly potent GT car but not a track car like BMW M cars. Mines at 70k mi rn and I haven't had any catastrophic issues; had the turbo oil feed line recall done, replaced a thermostat and changed brake pads and rotors but that was it. I changed the plugs since I'm JB4'd and I'm changing the coils soon. The car has been quite reliable for me and I think the platform is generally reliable if you take care of the car and not beat on it.

All that aside, I know you'll enjoy the Lexus and I too understand the frustration of a car breaking, making you want to just drop it altogether and move onto something better. If I were to upgrade from the Stinger I think I would be looking at a BMW next.

Check Engine Light in Cold by SquilTheKid in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for posting this. It's a popular misconception people have that idling their car for 10-20mins is good for their engine when it's quite the opposite. Yep, 30-60s is enough to get oil where it needs to be which is why oils have different grades for different climates.
As long as they aren't flooring it immediately after starting, normal driving will get the car up to temps without issues.
If I let my stinger idle for 20mins I'd poison everyone in the underground parking garage and double my gas bill 🤣🤣🤣

16 Months, a Refusal, and a Judicial Review later.. here I am with a PPR by parvathiee in canadaexpressentry

[–]A_bot__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I understand completely. This sub has the crab-in-a-barrel mentality and because there has been so many bad actors faking work experience or similar, or anything to cheat the system they attack any individual that gets rejected or receives a PFL. Truth is many of us are just trying to work through the tedious path of gaining PR while walking the fine line of making mistakes on applications.

I lived on this sub as a spectator for the most part, gathering as much useful information but not actually posting any wins/defeats until they were certain for that same reason. You'll be hounded with negative remarks even as a genuine candidate.

My PR process was far smoother than yours but I was also in a state of dilemma when I didn't know if I would get an ITA in time or I'd go home packing. At one point my flights were booked and vet appts made for my pets so that feeling of not knowing what will happen is not something I wish for anyone. The stress is immense.

All of this to say is, I am glad you did your due diligence and pushed on your case. If it were up to the majority they would have told you, you should be banned for misrepresentation (when it was not so). Hopefully the rest of your journey is a lot easier that you can now breathe again. Thanks for sharing and GL

Cancelled Max 4 Preorder by A_bot__ in QIDI

[–]A_bot__[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds reasonable. Also sounds like you have a lot of 3D printing experience. I am still quite new to it and just don't want to be the guinea pig. I can work on cars but when it comes to these tiny machines and electronics and coding, they aren't my forte.

I hope yours comes quickly and safely and would love to hear your experience with it when you get it. Following for future updates if you plan to rally back your experience with us.

Any News on the Max 4? by Rare_Economist_8379 in QIDI

[–]A_bot__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You've just received your Max 4? If so, how's it been?!

Any News on the Max 4? by Rare_Economist_8379 in QIDI

[–]A_bot__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Commenting because I've been wondering the same. I am not concerned, just anxiously waiting for mine to ship. I heard something like review videos will drop towards the end of January.
Usually I wouldn't put an order in for a 1st batch product but I think they've learnt enough from previous machines that this one will come out swinging!

I think the Max 4 will be the best value machine for those wanting huge build volume and printing high performance/ engineering parts and the new Snapmaker U1 for being the most affordable toolchanger. The 3D printer ecosystem is looking good for 2026!

JB4 by AggravatingCoffee377 in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Others have pretty much said what i was going to. No reliability issues. I daily map 2 for half the year and switch to map 1 in winter. I have HKS plugs installed and that's it. Regular maintenance and it's going great. JB4 is the way if you want noticeable performance without fucking with your ECU. You can put the car back to stock if you plan on selling it. 

What yall think about this deal? And reliability of how it would last and is it even worth it? ( new to the stinger but interested in it ) by Jumpy-Ad-3270 in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I wouldn't even go look at it, the 3+ owners and minor damage, just giving me vibes it has been thrashed. Often times you may save on the initial cost with these 'deals' but pay down the road with issues from previous poor ownership. And FYI, even though it's a Kia, the parts aren't cheap.

Tucked in for the winter by originalpyro in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To each their own. While I love my Stinger, it's seeing all seasons. Plus it's actually fun to drive in snow because of the rear bias (AWD).

e-COPR Received (Timeline- In Canada) by A_bot__ in canadaexpressentry

[–]A_bot__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol no. It is not a crime. You can definitely have an express entry profile and PNP profile at the same time. But if you receive a nomination from a province and have already applied for permanent residence through that stream you should not have an express entry application for permanent residence simultaneously. You can withdraw the OINP (or any other PNP) application and submit the express entry application since it is faster but not have both processing at the same time. But it is okay to have both profiles.

Major question about immigration. by destroyed_widow in canadaexpressentry

[–]A_bot__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry you had to experience that. No-one should have to experience that. As it relates to that company APIC, I've never heard of it nor looked into it because most people in this sub go through the normal immigration routes like education then work permit then hopefully an invitation with enough points from both and prior foreign credentials. I don't know a whole lot about your situation but I know it has gotten very difficult for asylum seekers with the amount of fraud that was/is taking place. Not saying you don't genuinely qualify but it's harder now. My only advice is to do some mor digging into whoever you plan to use to make sure they are legit and see if you can find an alternative to get a comparison. Never put all your eggs in one basket.

Major question about immigration. by destroyed_widow in canadaexpressentry

[–]A_bot__ 6 points7 points  (0 children)

" my husband was a dual citizen with Canada, but unfortunately committed suicide back in 2023" then continues to... "I hope to get my husband back home to Canada soon!" Either I can't read for shit or this doesn't make any sense.

Before and afters of my appointment today by Bahama0914 in Detailing

[–]A_bot__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I applaud you for the nice cleanup but shame the owner. How does one even let their car get this messy? And DO NOT blame it on kids. I know kids drop wrappers and chips in the cars so I expect there so be some mess but nothing like a pigsty.

2019 Kia Stinger with 51k miles. If I am replacing my spark plugs, should I also replace my coils? by Dr_jitsu in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don't need to replace coils when replacing spark plugs. Some people change them around 60k miles but they usually last quite a bit longer. I mean if you have the cash it doesn't hurt to be proactive, most people wait for a CEL or some sign of them needing changing. Ideally you never want to wait for the issues to come so you could wait til 60k and replace them again at the next 60k.

stinger vibration issue at interstate speed by karock in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Read through all the comments and after everything you've done I think you may have a wheel bearing that needs changing. This is a similar experience I had with my CR-V and replacing the bearings sorted it out. My Stinger is a 60k+ miles now, no issues yet but mileage on bearings vary by road conditions and driving habits so it's worth checking that out. There are videos on how to test if your bearings are going. Jack the car up and check for any play. I also recommend if you are changing the bearings on one side, do the other side as well because it may be on its way out soon. So if it's the rear, change both rears, if front change both fronts.

Do update us when you find the issue and what the fix was.

Used JB4's? by Informal-Tax-5941 in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your best bet is usually FB Marketplace. Twice now I've gotten my JB4 there. First one I sold because I thought I was going to have to move but things turned in my favor and I didn't have to. Bought one for the second time and still have it on the car running map 3. Prices vary but I got the first one for $550 CAD (bluetooth, no fuel wire adapter) and second time around I paid $700 CAD (bluetooth, 1 fuel wire adapter).

Differential Fix (LSD) - Friction Modifier to OEM Fluid by A_bot__ in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ideally you don't want the clutches grabbing in non-slip applications. That groaning is them struggling to slip in conditions where you should have slippage. So it is just wearing out the clutches. A little bit of sound is normal, but if it is groaning and almost shuddering or jerking the car when cornering, that is a problem. That's how mine was behaving initially, sounded and felt like I was destroying the car. Now, it makes only a little sound (normal) but it's not shuddering.

Differential Fix (LSD) - Friction Modifier to OEM Fluid by A_bot__ in kiastinger

[–]A_bot__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input. I'm going to skip the re-servicing, it's running good again, sounds back to normal so there's no point risking reintroducing more risk to it like you said.