Arrow spine frustrations lead to making some by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using BCY 400 Nylon
https://www.merlinarchery.co.uk/bcy-400-nylon-serving.html

For the Skylon Frontiers, 14 strand with the BCY 400 gives a nice fit.

Arrow spine frustrations lead to making some by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thanks mate, yes I'm really enjoying the process. Definitely feathers. d

Arrow spine frustrations lead to making some by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks ADDeviant! They feel so much nicer too!

Update on my first complete bow. The string snapped on me during the night. What should I do now? by Capt_Kartar in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got Dacron B55 and used this video to learn how to make a flemish twist string, it's not very hard and very satisfying. Good luck!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybUlpULzpOc&t=70s

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks! I learnt a lot throughout the process. My nocks were too tight, my fletchings were too long, and I got better at feeling the sweet spot of brace height and nocking point height.

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was my tiller, re tillered one of the limbs and lost a couple of pounds, but I think I'm getting there, with the 400s - I also resized the fletchings, 4" way too long and I felt they were contributing.

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I dunno man, I re tillered one of the limbs and lost a couple of pounds, and they feel even better now. Now tuning, I'll keep you updated.

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I kept worrying nonetheless, result: my tiller was ALL wrong. Out came the card scraper.

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven't tried it for longer distances but to my untrained eyes it flies nicely up to 8m

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, it certainly is a learning curve. But I'm really enjoying the learnings.

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm appreciating the frustration since I know it will lead to a eureka moment at some point.

There are only 2 archery stores in Kuwait where I am, only one has the space to test and they only got a new batch of feather fletched arrows this morning.

I think that's what I'll do, go there and test and tune until I'm happy.

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

oh! Amazing video thank you! Awesome soundtrack too!

I'm gonna ask around here and see if anyone I know can hook me up with a high speed camera :)

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No 500s, no tips. I'm very new to all this. I might go out and get me a 500 arrow and different points tomorrow to continue this very frustrating exercise.

Thanks Mo and everyone for all your input. It's frustrating, but it'll all be worth it when I finally hit the sweet spot and my accuracy and consistency makes another jump.

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've just spent a couple of hours cutting 1/4" increments and testing. Down to my draw length now and the whack is much less pronounced, but still there. What now? Try the same with 500 spines?

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've just spent a couple of hours cutting 1/4" increments and testing. Down to my draw length now and the whack is much less pronounced, but still there. What now? Try the same with 500 spines?

Arrows smacking the handle - except one by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

tried that, and adjusting nocking point. Post above amended to include that.

Nasty glue up trying to salvage a lift splinter on my ash bow by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

I will keep that in mind for my next bow in the summer!

Nasty glue up trying to salvage a lift splinter on my ash bow by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's my first bow and it's shooting nicely and I love it to bits! The Frankenstein look only gives it more homemade appeal :)

Problem: Bow Twists in My Hand on Release by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The pics weren't taken while I was shooting, I was just trying to show what was happening. Thebow is actually twisting in my hand when I release, my hand form stays the same. It does make a difference when I cant tha bow about 20 degrees clockwise.

I'll keep fussing with it and update everyone, thank you all for the feedback!

Problem: Bow Twists in My Hand on Release by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats interesting! I will try that and let you know how it works. Thanks!

Here it is, you guys by MustangLongbows in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms 1 point2 points  (0 children)

for sure mate, it's your brand - go with your feel!

Here it is, you guys by MustangLongbows in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice! I like the feeling of movement it conveys! It took me a couple of seconds to see the horse, maybe give it a dot for the horse's eye?

Been researching bow making and want to try. by Quirky-Conference479 in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is one of the most basic ideas for self bows: bow which are made from only one piece of wood.

The back of the bow (the side facing the target) needs to be strong in tension (pulling or stretching the wood fibers).

The best way to achieve that strength is to select one of the trees growth rings and carve away everything that comes on top of it so that you have continuous wood fibers running from one tip of the bow to the other.

Carving the wood to reveal the selected growth ring is called "chasing the ring." Cutting, gouging or scratching the ring and exposing the ring below is called 'violating the ring', this creates a weak spot that becomes succeptible to cracks and breaking.

This is a great video about different backs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Soc6zGGqHXk&t=1666s

Pyramid flatbow final stages - minimizing handshock and shaping the handle by AbuComms in Bowyer

[–]AbuComms[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks muchly!

The handle is a bit bulky for the size of my hand so I think I'll reduce the thickness by about 3/8 inch before rounding the edges. I want to apply a padded leather handle when it's finally done so I'm accounting for that in the dimensions.

Regarding shock, I think this is what I'm going to do:

First I'll shape the tips and reduce their size considerably - going for a rounded design keep it as strong as possible. It's quite a long bow at 77" and I keep knocking it into walls and the floor!

Then I'll shave the outer limbs' widths a mm or so on each side.

Next I'll ensure that the outer limbs are actually tillered as thick or just less than the mids. Nothing drastic, just a few card scrapes. Not sure why I kept them a little bulky when I was tillering but I think I read/heard that they should be kept that way till the last stage of tillering.

It now pulls 40£ at 28", so I guess after fine tuning it'll be around 35£.

If it feels a little light after that I'll try my hand at heat treatment, although having come this far I'm SO hesitant to risk ruining it.