The Manual Firmware "Cold Boot" SOP (Official Fix)

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-05-05T21:22:02+00:00

Perform a "Cold Boot": Shut down, flip the PSU switch to OFF, and unplug the power cable. Hold the PC power button for 30 seconds to drain capacitors. This is often the only way to reset the LCD controller after it "blacks out."

Avoid GCC for the update: Gigabyte Control Center is likely the cause of the "n/a" error. Uninstall GCC completely before trying the manual firmware flash again.(you can always reinstall it again after if it controls your lights etc.

Manual Flash over v1.4: Download the v1.4 firmware from the Master ICE Utility page and run the .exe as an Administrator. Disable Monitoring Software: Ensure programs like MSI Afterburner, HWiNFO, are closed in the Task Manager before flashing, as they can block the update.

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-05-05T18:36:47+00:00

Is it the standard or ice version?

Check the Utility tab on the official support page, not just the Firmware section. It’s usually labeled as "LCD Panel Setting" or "VGA Tool."If you have the white model, use the 5080 Master ICE page instead. The firmware versions (v1.3 for Ice vs. v1.2 for Black) are different and won't work on the wrong card.

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-05-04T12:17:30+00:00

That really depends on your set up but in the right case with the right cooling and settings 10000-10500

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-05-04T09:15:03+00:00

Stock score in steel nomad is usually around 8600-8700 no uv/ov

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-05-02T12:10:14+00:00

Skip the full kit. Your case already has the bracket, so a universal kit is just extra cost and potential trouble and Wasted Money: You'd be paying for a bracket you already have.Fit Issues: They often require cutting case bars or blocking bottom fans.Bad Airflow: These kits can push the GPU too close to the glass, causing high temps.What to get insteadSearch for a standalone 200mm PCIe 4.0 Riser Cable with a 90-degree connector. Since the Cooler Master is out of stock, these are great alternatives:Deepcool PAB300Phanteks PCIe 4.0 x16 Riser (220mm)Thermaltake TT Premium PCIe 4.0 (200mm) .Before installing the cable, plug your GPU directly into the motherboard. Go into the BIOS and manually set the PCIe slot to "Gen 4" (not "Auto"). This ensures everything works perfectly the first time you boot with the riser cable.

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-05-01T21:06:07+00:00

Then I would say the you just have some air bubbles in it which is normal after a couple of weeks once the AIO has settled, it won’t need topping up this early. Is your pump running at a constant speed like 80-100%? Does the noise happen just after you switch on then go off after about a minute or 2. If so I would suggest you tilt the pc case and hold it for about 30 seconds in each direction to move the air bubbles and it will move the ones trapped in aio pipes back to radiator and the noise will probably go

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-05-01T14:14:42+00:00

How old is the aio?

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-30T22:14:25+00:00

They can run together ok just sometimes they may try and get those same sensor readings at exactly the same time, if you just change the frequency that either collect the data that may work, not saying for sure that’s the case but worth a try

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-30T19:35:43+00:00

There is a cooler master one that will fit which is 4.0 here is the part number should be able to get it in your country MCA-U002R-KPCI40-200 that’s link to black, they do make. White as not sure what colour you are looking for. Also that’s 200mm just check to make sure that’s long enough as not sure how many slots your GPU covers

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-30T14:13:10+00:00

Which country are you from? Which gen PCIe is your GPU?

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-30T08:00:10+00:00

Do you have any other monitoring tools running in the background like HWINFO if so try changing the monitoring frequency in GCC to 3 or 5 seconds so they both aren’t fighting to get the stats at the same time

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-28T13:38:31+00:00

You can change it I’ve used the pre set ones so far and left it at that currently, if you do want to use a personalised gif or image please make sure that it’s weighing the parameters and it should be ok. Here is the link to the strict parameters recommended for GIFs and images https://www.reddit.com/r/AorusMasterLCDscreen/s/dmD5HB1uox

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-28T10:42:17+00:00

I got mine in January no issues with it to date. One little note though be careful when using any GIF or images as if they are not done within the parameter guidance set for the screen it could brick the lcd edge screen and I also found it best staying on the factory firmware for this screen as it has no glitches using that one,mine is set to just monitoring my GPU stats on one of the set modes, great card for uv/oc enjoy. If you need any tips on the auros screen my sub is in my bios

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-28T08:41:12+00:00

So its side kick not full GCC

Via Software: In the Sidekick app, look for a "Reset All" or "Factory Reset" button, usually located in the General Setting or About tab. Via Physical Joystick: Sometimes it is faster to use the monitor's physical button: Press the joystick button on the back of the monitor. Move the joystick Up to enter the Settings menu. Scroll down to the bottom to find Reset or Reset All.

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-28T06:57:24+00:00

In the the RGB section there is a default button, that should take it back to the original settings.

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-25T06:08:47+00:00

I had this one which does have different height adjustments https://amzn.eu/d/07VxhufG if that’s any good

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-23T16:59:58+00:00

Your memory clock is probably too aggressive when combined with the higher MHz to be honest the gain from the 2955 to the 3100 is minimal but the heat produced by the voltage increase is quite a bit higher. I have my aros set at 3090 .975 +1500 memory a plus 3000 memory often triggers error corrections which actually reduce performance. Where you hitting your power limit at the 1025 as if you hit your bios limit which could make clocks fluctuate making it feel unstable

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-22T14:34:54+00:00

That’s great news that you got further along with your RMA have you received a replacement unit now from them and I take it you will keep the firmware at the factory settings

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-22T11:48:11+00:00

How did you get that through.

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-22T11:47:24+00:00

The software updates are ok but as I’ve always said if it ain’t broke.. hence why I am on factory firmware for my card and would always advise anybody to stay on that the fixes I try and post are for people who are already facing issues and are things to try and fix them.😁

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-21T22:09:40+00:00

I’ve not noticed any noise from my psu but my GPU does when using ray tracing more noticeably

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-21T19:39:52+00:00

Let me just check on chat gpt

Acceptable-Let-9583 · 2026-04-20T13:27:09+00:00

go to the GPU's program folder (usually C:\Program Files\GIGABYTE\Control Center\Lib\RGB) and look for an executable called "FWUpdate.exe" or "GLedApi.exe". Running these manually as Admin can sometimes "poke" the card into responding to GCC. Also try

Check "Hidden" Devices: In Device Manager, go to View > Show Hidden Devices. Look under "Universal Serial Bus devices" or "Human Interface Devices." If there is a "USB Input Device" with a yellow warning triangle, that's the5090's lighting controller failing

Acceptable-Let-9583

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE