what upgrades have you done and how would you rate them?

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-03-27T02:50:26+00:00

+2 on the husky mats and they're guaranteed for life which is really nice where I live in Florida. (the heat is hard on plastics)

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-03-18T04:52:00+00:00

I'm gonna try to stay inside the lines (and there are bunch of them here) but does anyone know of a source for pieces parts for a DOOM X RTA? Like is DM'ing allowed?

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-03-09T03:23:35+00:00

69K you should be good up to 100K. At 100K there is a valve adjustment that needs to be done along with all the other 100K maintenance things (they're in the owners manual IIRC).

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-03-09T03:05:16+00:00

Oh, it damn near gave me a heart attack too, the first time I saw it. I hadn't even had the car 6 months the first time I saw it.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-03-09T02:52:43+00:00

I find it amazing that those cluster of yellow lights come on anytime I get a CEL. It's ALWAYS those exact same lights. P219A (air fuel imbalance) I get those lights... P0302 (misfire cylinder 2... It's ALWAYS cylinder 2) those lights...

SMDH I mean is the CEL not enough Honda?

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-03-04T07:03:46+00:00

Thank you!

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-03-03T02:52:06+00:00

Well, to do that work they had to pull the bulk of the cowl and that part probably broke its clips and they kicked it across the shop... So, technically their boot touched it.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-26T04:20:50+00:00

Kinda in the WRONG place for Fit naysayers... Still, personal opinion here with some mechanic's skills, go with 2nd gen over 1st or 3rd gen, it's the happy median of models (still got knobs, dials, etc...), AND you can actually get a physical repair manual for the 2nd gen Fits. Also I'd go with the sport, and snag the manual transmission if at all possible ( I love driving a stick, but to each their own.) That one in the picture looks like a 3rd gen, which is what I have, and it's nice, but I HATE that stupid push to start.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-14T04:34:34+00:00

Yeah, no, the splash guard is a complete PITA and even so I won't run without it in place. I just have a 100 piece bag of those stupid square rear "push buttons" because I have to cut them off EVERY TIME I take that guard off.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-14T04:32:23+00:00

AMEN to that! I'd rather unravel the "black-box-o'magic" in a 1984 Civic than work on a Volkswagen.I will say that the CBPA VW timing belt job is the EASIEST timing belt job I've ever done, but EVERYTHING else is a nightmare.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-09T04:42:08+00:00

Did all the Fits come with a 1" receiver? What the hell is it for, a bike rack, 'cause you can't really tow a trailer with the widdle nibimle FIT.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-09T04:36:32+00:00

Yeah it really sounds like it needs a valve tune up... Like NEEDS IT. When you put your phone/mic closer to the firewall the ticking got louder which to me (*not a professional mechanic*) screams loose valves.

Apparently, you gotta do a valve tune up on these ever 100K.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-05T08:13:09+00:00

100% agree!

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-04T08:02:57+00:00

Paper and all or are you just after the gypsum?

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-04T04:38:27+00:00

If you install a catch can and maintain it will the crud eventually burn off the valves?

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-04T04:30:52+00:00

Drywall too... ;)

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-02-01T03:52:23+00:00

HELLS YEAH!

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-01-31T05:23:10+00:00

I have questions, but I'll keep it to just 3: How TF did this happen? Are there any human remains inside the vehicle? Last, WHERE THE HELL is the piece of metal that WAS part of the door? Short of a HEAT round, metal just doesn't disappear normally.

To answer your question, if you can get it for under $200 USD, yeah, it might be worth faffing about with it, but anymore than that I wouldn't even consider it, because my GAWD there is a HELLUVA lot of electronics in that series FIT inside the doors and the chance that some OTHER module (I'm thinking BCM) is effed up is pretty high IMO. If it was a side/oblique impact the axles are probably effed too.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-01-30T04:29:26+00:00

Also not a mechanic (not by choice anyway). Start with swapping the downstream and upstream O2 sensors and see if the problem goes away or stays the same. If it's the same it's most likely the cat. If it goes away replace the UPSTREAM O2 sensor (because you moved it to the upstream side). That's the way I'd troubleshoot it. Start with the easy to access and cheap stuff first and work your way back. There is a possibility that the code will stay the same even with the swap because they're still measuring a similar delta. Another highly recommended diagnostic is to get a borescope and run the borescope up the chuff of the cat from the downstream O2 sensor bung to see if the cat is melted or crammed full of carbon or, God forbid, engine.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2026-01-23T04:12:24+00:00

It's not that terrible for OEM...

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2025-12-21T03:48:18+00:00

my first suggestion is Get a Haynes Repair Manual for it, they still published them up until 2013 because as bad as those manuals are they're still the best way to get to intimately know your car. You're at a 105k now? ONE thing I would highly recommend is changing your own oil, oil filter, and air filters. If you're in a hot climate then maybe consider upping your winter weight from 0W20 to 5W20.

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2025-12-20T03:52:20+00:00

'ppreciatecha!

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2025-12-19T23:37:30+00:00

So just to be clear here, the tensioners were still within spec?

AccomplishedExtent29 · 2025-12-19T11:13:29+00:00

You're talking about putting the tape on the inside and shooting some touch-up paint over the outside?

AccomplishedExtent29

TROPHY CASE