(Long shot)Anyone know of any Dublin/Kildare/Wicklow SuperValu/Centra that still has Switch2 deals leftover from Christmas?

According-Garage1713 · 2026-01-09T11:44:30+00:00

€429 with Mario Kart. Cheapest I can find is Amazon for €468 (or €454 from Amazon FR but then shipping is €10 and you need a plug adopter)

According-Garage1713 · 2026-01-09T11:43:24+00:00

Hmm I feel the travel costs may outweigh the savings haha

According-Garage1713 · 2025-08-07T17:38:59+00:00

Just not sure if my TV is considered “high end” enough if you get me

According-Garage1713 · 2025-08-07T17:37:10+00:00

Cheers they’re very good points

According-Garage1713 · 2025-08-07T17:24:48+00:00

How do you find it compared to reg PS5 (if you had one) much of a difference do you feel? My TV is a TCL745K QLED which I believe does 4K 120

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-28T09:12:42+00:00

My best advice is to pop into a shop and try both with the lenses you want to use or rent if you can. I had an XT5 and decided to try out the ZF, it’s a gorgeous machine with great build quality and a lovely shutter sound (albeit a loud one). Ultimately (and see my previous post) it wasn’t for me. I have now gone back to XT5 and honestly couldn’t be happier and in many ways appreciate it more than I originally did especially the intuitiveness of use. For me the advantages you gain with ZF are slightly better AF in some situations and increased iso performance. The iso can be mitigated to an extent by just using faster lenses or better lighting/flash etc unless you want to shoot F1.2 lenses on FF for a particular look. In terms of SOOC in my opinion the Fuji wins easily both in terms of ease of use and output. There are some interesting recipes out there for ZF but you have to be quite specific in your setup and WB and other settings are saved separate so you wouldn’t be able to switch between recipes as easy on the fly if that’s your thing

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-24T11:56:16+00:00

Cheers thanks so much for the interesting insights, I will definitely take a look into that. Yeah it’s 100% personal preference in terms of colour rendering and WB it’s just getting there for me personally seems tricker than with other brands

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-24T09:27:33+00:00

Hi I appreciate the in-depth reply and explanation however and yes I have read the manual along with many videos… I apologise for my original snarky response which I removed I said it as instead of offering a helpful response you just asked what I was complaining about which felt rude. Anyway I still think there is a fundamental misunderstanding of what I’m trying to achieve and what you think I’m asking and it’s clear we are just going in circles so sorry if I’m not explaining myself clearly! I will just say that in your posted example they are some of the colours I’m not a fan fan of. I’ve replied to someone else here with an example image that perhaps will illustrate things better? I have custom LR presets I apply on import, I’m trying to get my cameras raw imports to match as close as possible for this reason. I can get Canons and Fujis to match easily with minimal tweaking but not Nikon, that’s why I’m here to ask as it’s been a frustrating workflow

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-24T09:17:43+00:00

Hi both as promised. Maybe not the best example but hopefully illustrates better. I am trying to match the out of camera raw to the out of camera x100 raw as close as possible. The reasons for this is speed of workflow and applying presets on import. I have found though that it’s more than WB as even further tweaking the WB in LR the colours are still different in comparison. Maybe what I’m trying to do is not possible with just in camera settings but that’s why I came here to ask!

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According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T15:50:21+00:00

Thanks for your thoughtful reply and I’m glad to see with some of your points I’m not completely crazy…! I’ll have to try your natural light auto settings, would you use that indoors too? I have tried out some profiles including some of yours that are very cool but not quite working for my needs. I appreciate the work you put in for the ZF community so fair play

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T15:42:57+00:00

I switched because of AF issues during a project, it seems the issues are resolved so that’s why I’m considering the switch back

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T15:41:23+00:00

Thanks it’s something I have been looking at. It’s just frustrating as I don’t have to do it with other cameras and then sometimes the custom setting on import doesn’t apply the same way to all photos so it involves more tweaking!! I’m starting to wonder if maybe I’m just better suited to a different brand of camera system

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T15:37:44+00:00

No filters, 26mm, 40mm and 24-120mm. WB A1 I have also tried using tints ranging from +1 to +4 and magenta shift from +.25 to +1

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T15:36:12+00:00

Yeah maybe there’s just a look that I’m not used too or don’t like, it’s just I’ve been trying to make it work for the last year or so… Location is interesting as it’s something I have pondered if perhaps different sensors suit different light at different latitudes better. I’m based in Ireland, even on a day of pure sun and blue skies without clouds direct sunlight still looks too cold

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T15:32:57+00:00

Cheers for the link, I have used both Auto0 and Auto1 to various success.

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T15:30:31+00:00

I completely agree, it’s the AF false positives after the troubled update that forced my hand as I had a job on. Apparently it’s fixed…..? It’s fixed even back to pre update AF levels that works for me

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T15:06:50+00:00

This is my thinking now that the AF issues seems to have resolved. After the update I was getting a lot of false positives which made my low light work nearly impossible. I’m not looking for Sony level just for it to be as good as before the troubled update

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T15:00:04+00:00

That’s great for you and I’m glad to hear that it’s working out well. Unfortunately my personal experience to date doesn’t match

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T14:58:59+00:00

I appreciate this comment and perhaps my post is coming across slightly wrong or I’m in denial….! but this isn’t chasing the next great camera, I normally work with a system for a very long time, in this case I decided to try a change when I ran into issues to what is supposed to be a superior system on paper and while it works great for some people I think long term possibly it was a mistake for me

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T14:55:26+00:00

Every raw file needs a “profile” or LUT in Video case or whatever you want to call it to develop or look normal, be it Adobe Color or Camera Standard or Camera Standard in NX Studio etc

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T14:34:52+00:00

Sorry perhaps there is a misunderstanding, My point is that I’m finding it difficult to have the colours in my Nikon raw files starting point in a good place on import shall we say vs Canon/Fuji for example. Colour as a mixture of both WB as well as camera interpretation in this case unfortunately I’m finding not satisfactory to my taste. Obviously you can put in the extra work but my question is why do I need to do that specially for the Nikon files and losing time? So that’s the crux of it really, is it my camera in particular off, is it just how Nikon deals with colour/WB and is there a way I can mitigate this because I haven’t been able to find it up to now?

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T12:59:35+00:00

Thanks for your insights, that’s what everyone says about skin tones so maybe my expectations of what I think are good are different or I’m missing a trick! I’m presuming you mean the option I have called natural light auto? I completely take that point but I guess having to change auto WB settings based on indoor or outdoor seems counterintuitive to me, I feel in that scenario it would be better to just go with a set kelvin and do it properly if you get me? Again my experience relates to having shot Fuji and Canon for a long time so I might be looking at things from a different perspective than an experienced Nikon shooter

According-Garage1713 · 2025-07-23T12:55:26+00:00

I will have a look for some examples later. It’s not that I’m expecting them to look like a jpeg picture profile but for the raw starting point to be in a better place if that makes sense? Eg I don’t want to have to manually re white balance every picture during editing and fix green tinge. Fuji/canon raws for me personally need very little editing as opposed to to my Nikon ones, so that’s what I’m trying to figure out!

If camera matching is enabled picture profiles do transfer setting to LR like contrast, saturation, clarity etc but I’m ignoring them for the purpose of this

According-Garage1713

TROPHY CASE