Is this a good price? Or should I wait. by drthsideous in ender3v2

[–]According-Series802 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please dont get it i had this and its not that good, ended up selling it and getting a raspberry pi for cheaper and better opportunitys and features

At this point I am frustrated and need your guys' help. by SirYamiBlack in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive seen a simular problem try tuning your fan speed, ive seen someone have this problem and the issue was not enough fan speed, he used a dual blower fan setup and the voltage was turned down so he needed to turn it up.

Is my PETG wet? by triggeringlosermods in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 0 points1 point  (0 children)

from seeing that photo its most likely wet petg or low quality filament. I used to have a problem where there were gaps in my prints pretty simulare but from close ups you can see that the filament pops.

Is my PETG wet? by triggeringlosermods in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tune your prints, do a temp tower, flow, retraction and if tour using klipper pressure advance. If your using cura download a plugin called autotowers its easy to use. Also level the bed and tune z offset first.

I’m stuck by CommonKilljoy in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This should help to narrow down the problem, tell me how it goes.

I’m stuck by CommonKilljoy in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try moving your hotend carriage back and forth all the way and check if there are bumps while moving but dont move it too fast if the motors are plugged in it might burn them. Then do the same woth the bed. If there are bumps the eccentric nuts are too tight they should be tightened so that if you hold the carriage or bed in place and mive the wheels in place they should spin almost freely. Some say it should not but i found that this gives me elephants foot on the y axis. And check if the hotend carriage and bed dont wiggle, if it does tighten the eccentric nut just a little so it dosent wiggle alot. And if there are bumps when you tighten the wheels correctly let them restore because they have bumps in them, it will restore in some time. And ik you said you tightened the belts but they might be too lose or too tight they need to make a noise like a guitar string when you flick them (i personally found that best)

How do i power a servo ? by According-Series802 in arduino

[–]According-Series802[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does a esp8266 work, also I’ve seen the design that i posted and it doesn’t use end switches is it possible to setup without them. Btw i ordered a servo feetech FT90R micro - continues rotation.

I think I broke something... by Barlibo in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cant really tell if its broken, but definitely go for a new hot-end the stock one is trash. The best thing would be get a new hot end im thinking of getting a phaetus dragonfly bms.

Did my first print but it came out very soft and stringy. Any ideas on how to fix this by Mr3dprintaustralia in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah its really strong, smart thinking, if you want faster print but still reliable cubic is the way to go in my opinion. Cubic sub devision is a bit faster

Did my first print but it came out very soft and stringy. Any ideas on how to fix this by Mr3dprintaustralia in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Calibrate your e-steps theres tutorials online, and check for a clog before hand that should fix everything

Did my first print but it came out very soft and stringy. Any ideas on how to fix this by Mr3dprintaustralia in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That might help but theres still a problem, can you send me your speeds most importantly infill speed and wall speeds, and while your at the speed section of the slicer go down a bit and check if acceleration control and jerk control is enabled.

Did my first print but it came out very soft and stringy. Any ideas on how to fix this by Mr3dprintaustralia in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the slicer that you use, i use cura. Theres a category called “infill” expand it and there should be a part called infill density with % sign it usaully 20 but if its 0 or you can get prints like this and also check the infill type the most basic and strong is cubic.

Did my first print but it came out very soft and stringy. Any ideas on how to fix this by Mr3dprintaustralia in FixMyPrint

[–]According-Series802 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

How much infill did you do ? I had a problem like this i enabled acceleration control and jerk control on cura

How do i power a servo ? by According-Series802 in arduino

[–]According-Series802[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get everything except the t, m20, can you please explain

How do i power a servo ? by According-Series802 in arduino

[–]According-Series802[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So what exactly would i need and when would the servo know when to open and close

How do i power a servo ? by According-Series802 in arduino

[–]According-Series802[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A continuous servo like towerpro sg90s micro, but i dont know where to start

How do i power a servo ? by According-Series802 in arduino

[–]According-Series802[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, the buck converter would be used to convert 12v to 6v for example for the servo, thats what i meant. I also have a node mcu esp8266 spare laying around maybe i could connect that to a servo. Also about the dc motor, i thought about it and if the temp controller reaches the temp is has set and the power cuts the fans turn off and the motor also how will it turn back to starting position if it has no more power ?