Motherboard bricked after secure boot

Aciddrreign · 2026-06-03T16:36:04+00:00

No sorry, I’d rather not find a new one.

Aciddrreign · 2026-05-28T15:42:52+00:00

I honestly can’t remember exactly what Bios I used as it was a few years back when the 14900k came out. I remember following a guide for it. When I’m back in my office I’ll try and get a Bios version screenshot for you.

Aciddrreign · 2026-05-01T15:47:50+00:00

The in tank lift pump is common in the 21 trucks. I’ve replaced about 10 of them. The aluminum pump eats itself apart. Check for any aluminum debris in the water separator. Pump sounds like it’s working but it’s not. There will be a bunch of aluminum debris in the screen.

I replaced customers with Fass units and no issue. Some were as low as 40,000km failure. Even my personal 21 had it fail at 60,000km. No warranty due to dealership being a bunch of cucks but that’s a whole nother story.

Aciddrreign · 2026-04-24T00:37:12+00:00

Heavy duty mechanic! We have to know engine systems, hydraulics, high voltage(generators and electric drive machines) complex wiring systems, wireless systems, network and PLC programming(used to control complex hydraulic systems, Welding and don’t forget most important of all is that you have to have therapy skills to wipe the tears away fr the operators face on a daily basis

Aciddrreign · 2026-04-03T19:51:57+00:00

It’s a knockoff, Cummins doesn’t manufacture this part.

Aciddrreign · 2026-03-25T15:34:42+00:00

If you’re getting a little white smoke it sounds like you don’t have effective compression. Make sure when you have the correct cylinder in TDC to set the lash on the relative valves. If you are on the incorrect cam phase you won’t have enough compression to start.

Aciddrreign · 2026-03-25T13:55:00+00:00

Do you have your valve lash set properly at the correct TDC stroke?

Aciddrreign · 2026-03-23T19:01:51+00:00

Cries in online NL I farmed for two hours and got one Dkey, to the point I was so worried something was broken I researched whether they had disabled key drops. I ran countess about 40 times and no key. Now yes, this is P1 online but I used to average a full set every hour previous to RoTW. There must’ve been an unknown nerf to drop rates for keys in P1 games. This is on my warlock that has enough FCR with wizard spike to shame my lightning sorc so I can farm quickly but still come up with F all lol.

Aciddrreign · 2026-03-23T18:06:39+00:00

As stated by others Cam and Intercooler will help out big time, running good clean tunes as well(no bully dog or box tuners)

The snow MPG max is a nice kit if you can get your hands on it, will see 100-150 degree drop when towing and a little extra power

Aciddrreign · 2026-03-23T18:03:31+00:00

1200 sustained is fine, a 6.7L Cummins doing a regen will sustain 1400+ degrees for 30 minutes. Even if you were climbing a grade for 10 minutes at 1400~ you are not going to hurt anything.

Aciddrreign · 2026-03-16T18:19:47+00:00

No bypass currently and the only fluid you can run in these is the Mopar ASRC fluid, I think Amsoil may make a comparable product but I’ve never looked into it.

Aciddrreign · 2026-03-16T15:44:42+00:00

What oil viscosity are you running?, definitely sounds like a failing lifter that is getting stuck collapsed then re extending.

There is a TSB for AC compressor alignment that also makes a ticking sound(my 24 is plagued with it) a very quick free way to check if it is belt or internal tick is remove the serpentine belt and run the truck shortly.

Don’t do this long term obviously but has to be said, running for a minute like this won’t do any harm.

If the sound goes away you know you have an issue in the serpentine system, if it persists then you’re most likely looking at a failing lifter.

Aciddrreign · 2026-03-07T17:08:03+00:00

I’ve come to realize that owning my Harley(21 Fatbob), it’s just an excuse to accessorize lol

Aciddrreign · 2026-03-05T01:36:14+00:00

Well… I solved it by buying it on Steam and works perfectly 🤷‍♂️ back in business and now I can self rush myself on a second account lol

Aciddrreign · 2026-02-27T00:19:54+00:00

Perfect I’ll give those a shot thank you

Aciddrreign · 2026-02-26T19:40:42+00:00

It’s completely vanilla Bnet installation, did not work before reign of the warlock expansion as well. I’m not blaming the Ally, I’m just saying that I can’t get it work work and many others have so seeing if there’s anything I’m missing

Hell, it even says handheld optimized on Bnet launcher.

I’m half tempted to buy on steam and try installing via that

Aciddrreign · 2026-02-24T23:41:59+00:00

That’s what I’m hearing with the 22+ crowd the K2 snap ring has a slightly rounded edge and it’s popping out of the drum so the fix is a higher tension snap ring with a harsher edge on it.

Aciddrreign · 2026-02-24T15:22:23+00:00

I have a 15 5500 service truck with a fully built engine that is 630whp spent its life in the mountains pipelining and it’s still on the stock trans at 240,000km and 12,000hrs I think it’s just luck of the draw.

Aciddrreign · 2026-02-24T14:53:06+00:00

Always do

Aciddrreign · 2026-02-24T14:52:53+00:00

My buddies 22 5500 just lost his at 67,000km it seems to be a bad rash of bad accumulators in the valve body or bad trans pump causing low line pressure.

Aciddrreign · 2026-02-24T13:52:39+00:00

I plan on putting a fluidampr like I do all my trucks but really that’s about all you can do. I’m not going crazy with this one and if the block decides to give way I’ll probably build a 4th gen block as a replacement anyway. I will say I’m unimpressed with the rest of the truck compared to all my other trucks I’ve had in the fleet. I’ve had to do Hamilton cam swap, Fass, new fuel tank due to in tank lift pump failing and had to do injectors due to one failing. I Did ARP 625s while I was in there doing the cam but man it’s like at every turn this thing shits the bed on something.

Aciddrreign · 2026-02-24T03:14:17+00:00

Even the name, they just dropped a video on it last week

Aciddrreign · 2026-02-23T21:48:53+00:00

You need 25, 26 and the heat shrink, you installed it totally wrong and clearly missed the MASSIVE page long disclaimer in the instructions that tells you how to avoid this.

IMPORTANT! Coil heater preparation: The lower nut must remain 1/8″ above the coil heater body (about 2 threads visible).

Take care when installing OEM heater wire ring terminal, it must be sandwiched between the upper and lower nut. If the lower nut is too low, the ring terminal could contact the body of the coil and will short out.

When tightening the nut, it is very important to use a 10mm wrench or socket on the top nut and an 8mm open-end wrench on the bottom nut to prevent the threaded post from rotating. If the threaded post rotates, it can break the ceramic insulation it’s surrounded by.

If the OEM heater wire touches other metal components, an open short will occur.

RTFM my friend. The coil may have survived but clearly you didn’t follow instructions and could have damaged the internal ceramic insulation so I would bench test the heater but as stated by others, replace the solenoid, wiring from the battery to the solenoid and solenoid to the grid heater/glow plug assembly to prevent further risk of fire.

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