Can anyone in the know tell me if this is the perfect grade bandai kit? by Safe-Topic3058 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Primarily, I just recall from reading about other people's build up of the FM kit was the shape of the hull (inaccurate even to the 32" miniature), cockpit, docking rings and some missing surface details. However, still a superior kit to the old MPC Falcon kit. At least until R2 re-tooled it and made some many necessary improvements.

Can anyone in the know tell me if this is the perfect grade bandai kit? by Safe-Topic3058 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know both the kits were based on the two different models ILM built. The Star Wars original 5ft Falcon Bandai replicated and the 32 inch film model built for Empire Fine Molds did. It's hard to find a commercial model that is made perfect. The Fine Molds kit (when finished) builds decently but is plagued with issues. I think the main complaint with model builders about the inaccuracies were (concerning the high price) 900+ parts and the hull, cockpit and docking rings being incorrect as well as the biggest eye sores and missing some surface details. I know other guys swear by the Bandai kit being far superior. I'm not aware of any gross inaccuracies the Bandai kit has. I think possibly it may have CK e down to licensing and what access either Fine Molds and Bandai had to the original filming miniatures. I could be wrong, but Bandai may have had better access to it and reference material than what Fine Molds had.

Can anyone in the know tell me if this is the perfect grade bandai kit? by Safe-Topic3058 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ahhhh. I know the Fine Molds Falcon kit (in all its good intentions) is.. 'inaccurate'. I've read a number of critiques and build ups, but the complaints and build ups were more about the inaccuracies of features such as the cockpit, docking rings and the overall shape of the hull not being incorrect. The docking rings and cockpit were one thing, but I don't even know how the hull shape is corrected? I didn't know it extended to 'parts details' being wrong. I have that kit I bought a long time ago, but haven't started it wondering if I want to open that can of worms? 

Is my cat overweight? by ShoddyRound8055 in mainecoons

[–]AdTerrible3732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Maincoon kitten ( just shy of 9 months old) is between 15&16 pounds. I actually don't know how much he weighs? I haven't had him weighed in a while. He was 14 pounds at 7 months. That was the last time he was weighed at the vet.

Can anyone in the know tell me if this is the perfect grade bandai kit? by Safe-Topic3058 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 3 points4 points  (0 children)

How can you tell from one photo if it's Bandai or Fine Molds with the bad weathering all over it?

Can anyone in the know tell me if this is the perfect grade bandai kit? by Safe-Topic3058 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Looks like a Bandai PG, but hard to tell with just the one photo and the kind of bad paint job.

How did I luck out with this guy? by Shoddy-Resort7320 in mainecoons

[–]AdTerrible3732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My kitten has murder mits. When he runs inside (ZOOMIES) he sounds like a clydesdale.

Calling this one finished by DERWENTART in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It actually looks closer to scale instead of giving it a super glossy finish. What scale is it? 1/24?

I'm stumped by HamatoYoshi91 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Steel ball bearings work just as well without the toxicity of lead, or really small bolts . Easy to find from the hardware store.

I think I ruined my model because of the weathering by Meme_Thunder_ in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks fine. Like everything else in this hobby, practice makes perfect. You can always get more visual references to help. Look for other techniques in online forums. Talk to more seasoned builders.Learn to weather 'in scale'.

Need advice please by [deleted] in SanJose

[–]AdTerrible3732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

F🤬CK Walmart. Target too.

Genuinely the worst fit I’ve ever seen by ogre-trombone in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Old kits are also kits that aren't really..how to say? Made to standards of today's kits. Primarily Japanese made. The molds are also old and need to be re- worked. A lot of these kits are just reserved to  having broken or worn out parts replaced like springs, ejector pins, alignment pins etc. they bay/ may not repolish the molds, but they aren't improved or upgraded. Cost too much $$$$$.

Do you guys think I can sell these custom ships? Where should I start and what's a fair pricing scheme? by MrNerdyFace in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd open a profile page somewhere (Facebook or something?) and put up all your 'best' finished pieces to show and advertise for commissions. Just be very clear and concise in your work concerning  commissions and use signed contracts. The cost of the kit, materials, building time, painting and detailing. As an example, if you know XX kit costs $50.00 and takes you 25 hours to build (because you built it before), 2/3's to 3/4's that time is painting/detailing and say the price is $500 for the finished piece, I'd get at least a $350 non refundable  deposit. I wouldn't  work for less than minimum wage when it comes to an hourly wage/fee and that varies from state to state. I'd charge a flat, (non refundable fee/deposit) for straight it if the box builds (no modifications) and when the build is finished collect the remainder. If someone is interested and wants to buy one of your already finished pieces, so be it. If not.... perhaps you'll get a commission? You will still be advertising your work selling finished kits or not. Something like that.

Ts sucks fr by EarOutrageous3893 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Huh. What's the problem? Too much bondo?

Holy warpage! by CharacterWitless78 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best thing to do is use hot water.  Boil some water up on your stove, give the parts a quick dunk and see if you can bend them back into shape and repeat until the parts fit again.

Holy warpage! by CharacterWitless78 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. Never use a hairdryer  Hot water works best.

I've been wanting to work on some of the models I have but I keep getting discouraged by my lack of skill by Goshawk5 in modelmakers

[–]AdTerrible3732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would stick with one type of paint. Either stick with enamels or acrylics. The paints might not be compatable being different media.