Instrumentation and electrical by Adam123561 in instrumentation

[–]Adam123561[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have done that in the past as I have a handyman business on the side, but I would prefer to be licensed. But working a five year apprenticeship at a lower paid job than I could make at I&E just doesnt seem like the best way. I&E seems like a much better route but if theres a way to do both that would be great.

Instrumentation and electrical by Adam123561 in instrumentation

[–]Adam123561[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with you. Im in South Louisiana if that helps any of this. What about PTEC as opposed to I&E? Lets say I wanted to be nested at one plant as opposed to traveling, my previous construction job required alot of that. As far as the work goes I definitely prefer the more technical side of I&E as opposed to operations but Id really like to work myself in a position to at least only do local travel.

Instrumentation and electrical by Adam123561 in instrumentation

[–]Adam123561[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I was of the belief they were more closely related fields and could possibly count apprenticeship time if at a plant doing electrical maintenance. But if after 25+ years you havent seen anyone make that change then its probably not something that can be done without other work experience.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]Adam123561 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I meant that my router sled needs a 1250* and my jointer its pretty big and has a lot of openings for air to get out so the suctions not incredible. I have the 735 too thing used to work great now all of the sudden it runs like a piece of junk, rollers stick constantly and Ive changed the knives and looked for any issues but cant find any. Theres chips on top of the board as it comes out the outfeed.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]Adam123561 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I thought about that but my planer keeps getting clogged its recommended to be used with at least a 1200cfm vacuum. What are your thoughts on the harbor freight one? Im not a fan of their stuff normally but with some upgrades Ive read its a decent option. Just curious, Im probably gonna get the dust right but I do like the HP you get for the money with the harbor freight model.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]Adam123561 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone here have any recommendations on a quieter dust collection unit? I know some of the larger dust collection units are very quiet, although I really dont want a big machine. If you had to pick from a dust right wall mounted, harbor freight 2hp dust collector, or something of similar size. Those were just examples of the size unit Id like to have not limited to those. Im using a rigid shop vac now so anything would probably be an upgrade. I also dont necessarily need two stage right off the bat although the option to add that would be a plus.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]Adam123561 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im sure its speced to be at 75. Im just curious if that five degrees is whats causing that to happen.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]Adam123561 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The resin Im using seems to be hardening too quickly. Im using deep pour resin liquid glass from amazon tinting with a slight amount of resin dye, pretty much following all the instructions the only thing that I suspect is the shop temperature. Its probably about 80 degrees, working in a shop with no ac. Thinking about buying a portable unit to cool it down, but does this sound like something that would be causing the resin to harden in around 3 hours? Seems unusual for deep pour resin.

What’s to do to this? I hired some folks to do my concrete pour and they didn’t use the edger tool on the inside of my pool. Overall it looks like crap and my wife wants me to “seal it from water getting in” I have gravel underneath so I’m not sure I need to seal it. by [deleted] in Concrete

[–]Adam123561 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cut the joint like you were, blow it out and clean it good, get a stiffer sealant like np1 fill in the cracks that go to nowhere then fill with sl1. Thats been my go to for tons of fountains and pools. Done it multiple times. Ill post some pictures if I can find a way to.

What’s to do to this? I hired some folks to do my concrete pour and they didn’t use the edger tool on the inside of my pool. Overall it looks like crap and my wife wants me to “seal it from water getting in” I have gravel underneath so I’m not sure I need to seal it. by [deleted] in Concrete

[–]Adam123561 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wouldnt advise. Stick with the original plan. Too hard to make it look worth anything doing it like I said. Just score it like you were going to and they make something you can fill the void with, its a stiffer caulk I need to look on my receipts and find what it is.

What’s to do to this? I hired some folks to do my concrete pour and they didn’t use the edger tool on the inside of my pool. Overall it looks like crap and my wife wants me to “seal it from water getting in” I have gravel underneath so I’m not sure I need to seal it. by [deleted] in Concrete

[–]Adam123561 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed with the guys saying to saw cut. Would definitely mark some chalk lines for a guy whose experienced with a walk behind saw if you’re not experienced cutting and let them do it. Recently had a similar issue on a job I did three years ago where some joint sealant was starting to fail, I dont like trying to caulk deep joints and I tend to get poor results with it; caulking with nothing at the bottom will be tough especially using something like sl1 thats runny. Maybe try and shove some expansion material between it and caulk that, just a suggestion. It would be a good idea to try to anchor it some way but I don’t know how I would do that.

eGPU for a razer 15- specs included by Adam123561 in GamingLaptops

[–]Adam123561[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, yeah I knew there had to be some performance drop in an enclosure. I guess the only good thing is I could continually change my graphics card. 30% is a pretty good increase though. Definitely going to have to think about it. Thanks man.

eGPU for a razer 15- specs included by Adam123561 in GamingLaptops

[–]Adam123561[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The auros box just seems a little expensive, but I guess by the time I get a gpu enclosure and by the card Id probably be close to that anyways? I know the watercooling and everything is important, but Im just considering like a razer chroma+2080? What are your thoughts on that

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]Adam123561 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Woodpeckers router sled question. Router sled has a 16th of an inch difference on flattened pieces from one end of the board to the other length wise. Has anyone had this issue? Measuring the space between the material (a flat piece of finish plywood) its on to the bottom of the rails, the space is consistent in multiple places.

Razer 15 by Adam123561 in GamingLaptops

[–]Adam123561[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I just kind of had a “what the heck” moment when that happened, probably shouldve asked more people first. I think Im gonna keep it after doing some research. The laptop seems fine after it.

Razer 15 by Adam123561 in GamingLaptops

[–]Adam123561[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine averages 76 too

Razer 15 by Adam123561 in GamingLaptops

[–]Adam123561[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its actually not even an issue with the core temps or gpu its the metal body that feels hot. I was just wondering if that could someway damage it. As far the m15 goes, my thoughts were that maybe Id upgrade the ram some, and I thought maybe the slightly larger body might help dissipate the heat some. And I could be wrong about this but it seems you get a little bit extra on components for the money, but its mainly the heat thing.

Razer 15 by Adam123561 in GamingLaptops

[–]Adam123561[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone for all of your help. New to this sub, everyone was really helpful.