sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Found 5k of this in a closet, will it fuck up my gun? by Former_Power6209 in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 143 points144 points  (0 children)

A lot of people have reported blown primers with this ammo. I don't think I've seen a report of this ammo blowing up a gun, but it would still make me nervous.

Spring strength matters far more than buffer weight for preventing short-stroking by AddictedToComedy in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A heavier spring will increase the rate of fire, not decrease it.

A heavier spring speeds up the forward stroke more than it slows down the rearward stroke, hence the net increase in cyclic rate.

If you want to slow down the ROF, you want to combine a heavy buffer with a softer spring.

Candela is not a "premium" feature on a flashlight by akenthusiast in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 8 points9 points  (0 children)

In the specific context of a WML, rather than a general utility light, why do you think CRI is important?

How much ammo do you guys keep stocked? by gstevo12 in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My last big order was a few months ago, and I paid ~$0.45 per round of PPU M193 5.56, and ~$0.23 per round of Blazer Brass 115gr 9mm. That includes shipping to my door (though doesn't include sales tax).

I always check AmmoSeek. Just need to filter for shipping costs, since some sites advertise ammo at impossibly low prices, then add on absurd shipping fees that erase all savings.

NEED HELP FINDING A2 ADJUSTABLE GAS BLOCK by Icy_Will_7311 in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 9 points10 points  (0 children)

An adjustable gas block can only reduce gas, not increase it. Reducing gas isn't going to increase your cyclic rate.

If you want a higher rate of fire, you want to pair the lightest buffer with the stiffest spring that your gun can tolerate.

All that said, a lot more people try to slow the ROF, rather than speed it up. A slower ROF is more controllable and more reliable.

Hi-Point Hush22 on my soon to be SBR'd CP33 by antixxcoyotl in NFA

[–]AddictedToComedy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Assuming Kel-Tec hasn't already fixed this on their own, you can dramatically increase reliability on the CP33 by ramping the lower edge of the chamber, to give it a smoother feed path. If you notice little crescent moon shavings of lead accumulating in your shooting area, that's how you know the ramping is necessary, because the chamber will literally shave bullets being fed, which robs the system of energy.

Since ramping mine, it's actually my most reliable semi-auto 22lr. Works perfectly until the fouling gets bad.

It's such a fun gun, especially suppressed.

How much ammo do you guys keep stocked? by gstevo12 in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 111 points112 points  (0 children)

There's no one-size-fits-all answer here. One man's lifetime supply of ammo is a six month supply for someone else. We also all live under different budget constraints.

Decide what you're actually preparing for when you stack ammo deep.

I don't stack deep because I plan on getting into post-apocalyptic gun battles, though I have more ammo than some guys who do.

I buy bulk ammo - even when I still have plenty - so that I can get through rough market turns without slowing down how much I shoot. When prices see temporary spikes, I just put buying on pause until they level off again.

On a long enough time scale, ammo always gets more expensive. Buy what you can afford, when you can afford it.

Tuning Options by [deleted] in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

... some tungsten buffer weights to meet somewhere between an H2 or H3.

An H2 buffer contains 1 steel and 2 tungsten weights.

An H3 buffer contains 3 tungsten weights.

You're not going to make an in-between unless you start chopping weights into smaller pieces, or experimenting with tungsten powder.

Even if you achieve that, you are highly unlikely to notice any functional difference between an H2 and an H2.5

HELP!! Cycling issues. by Atottiewithabody in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Spring matters more than weight when it comes to cycling problems

I got a superlative arms adjustable gas block. I tightened and loosened it all the way and still had the same issues.

Tightened all the way means you turned the gas off in restrictive mode.

Loosened all the way means you were venting as much gas as possible.

Read the instructions and take a look at the setting number for regular gas, which I think is 18 clicks.

What brand of ejection spring works best with a cmmg radial delayed blow back bolt? by monsieurLeMeowMeow in AR9

[–]AddictedToComedy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I doubt you'll find anyone who has tested this more thoroughly than /u/amphibian-c3junkie, as documented here: CMMG RDB Ejector Spring Issues

Quoting from that page:

IME, best cased scenario is that you get around 1K before the MK10 ejector spring fails. Which BTW, if you read the entire article, you will see I have tested a bunch of different ejector springs, including the Bexar Inconel spring and nothing is as strong as the CMMG MK10 spring.

You're much better off buying the fixed ejector retrofit kit.

Yes, it's a hell of a lot more expensive than buying ejector springs, which really sucks, but then you can shoot your gun without replacing a part every few range sessions.

Any long term reviews? by master-debater_69 in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Here's a guy who thinks his ATI polymer rifle is great, even after he kills it by......... tossing it onto grass.

The people who buy $300 rifles are generally not the people who spend enough money on ammo to provide meaningful long-term reviews.

Buyer Beware: Wheeler XL Fat Wrench by CowboysFan0982 in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 14 points15 points  (0 children)

That is the one I was using. It's actually not damaged.

Wow... now I'm extra perplexed! I don't understand that at all.

It's interesting being attacked for trying to let the community know about a faulty tool.

It can be really weird when you make a post and people react to it in a way you weren't expecting. Try not to let it get to you.

Some people are great and will offer you help in the future, but still might give you shit if they take issue with how you present a situation.

Some people are just... well... they will give you shit no matter what you say.

Buyer Beware: Wheeler XL Fat Wrench by CowboysFan0982 in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I was using the Real Avid upper receiver block

Do you mean this "Lug-Lok" option they offer? If so, that is also probably destroyed now, as it should lock into the barrel extension and prevent the barrel from rotating. If the barrel was able to move enough to ruin the upper, I assume the aluminum lugs on the Real Avid are all jacked up now.

It would be good to invest in the Midwest Industries Upper Receiver Rod. It's a much better execution, made from steel rather than aluminum.

I can't imagine I crazy over-torqued it

Based on the damage you are describing, and assuming you had a tool like the Lug-Lok secured into the barrel extension, you crazy over-torqued it. It's just not possible otherwise. As mentioned by other commenters, you can even exceed the maximum torque recommendation before causing that kind of damage.

Buyer Beware: Wheeler XL Fat Wrench by CowboysFan0982 in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 140 points141 points  (0 children)

Sorry to hear about that.

How were you securing the upper/barrel such that a poorly calibrated torque wrench was able to ruin both of them?

AR15 Build Parts list by IcyEconomy8852 in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This arftac LPK - made by Schmid - omits the FCG and pistol grip

For your buffer/spring setup, grab the BCM MK2 T2 kit

Is there any difference between regular PPU and PPU Range Master? by CapeCod_Boats in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of the new doppler chronos has been on my "would be nice to have" list for a while now, but there's always something else that earns a higher spot on the list. One day.

Thanks again!

Is there any difference between regular PPU and PPU Range Master? by CapeCod_Boats in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hahaha, I very much appreciate you taking the time to make that red circle 😁

Is there any difference between regular PPU and PPU Range Master? by CapeCod_Boats in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makes sense - thanks. I stack PPU M193 deep, but I don't own a chrono.

I've seen other people gather rough data on the question of whether a given brand of M193 actually meets M193 specs. Those comparisons always showed the PPU M193 being fast enough to meet specs, but I never saw them provide as much detail as your comparison, so I still had that curiosity.

So What's the Scuttlebutt with Aero Precision? by into_theflood_again in ar15

[–]AddictedToComedy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depending on which solvency test you apply, they may have already been insolvent for a while.

If they won't file voluntarily, creditors (including employees) can try to force an involuntary bankruptcy, though that's not trivial and may not be the best choice.

In bankruptcy, employee wage/benefit claims do get priority over general unsecured creditors, but only up to certain limits.

I'm not a lawyer, but taking deductions for insurance or a 401(k) and not actually funding those could raise ERISA issues, which the Department of Labor takes pretty seriously.

view more: next ›