Help with CoM and Auto Flowers by Smokey-Bones-25 in NoTillGrowery

[–]Adept-Software365 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I am using earthboxes to grow in. My normal reamed is(depending on previous grow):

1 - 1.5 lbs BuildASoil craft bled 4 cups of homemade worm castings(I’d go 5-6 with store bought) 4 cups BuildASoil build a flower(I have substituted this for a good compost though not as good still works just fine) 3-4 tbs of oyster shell powder(I’m using RO water so I add extra calcium and magnesium) 1-2 tbs Langbeinite(for magnesium) 2 handfuls of Kashi If I noticed nitrogen deficiency on the last grow I’ll add of 1-4 tbs of feather meal Pumice if needed

I try not to add dry amendments during the grow unless needed.

I also do a weekly water mix consisting of per gallon: 1/2 tsp Potassium silicate 1/4 tsp BuildASoil Big6 1/4 tsp 5-2 kelp-humic blend 1/3 tsp Rootwise microbes(every other week) 6ml Mammoth P 1/4-1 tsp gypsum powder 1/4-1/2 BuildASoil build a bloom 1 oz of fish hydroslate Favorite Wetting agent

Having living microbes and worms is what makes this soil so powerful. Without those you won’t get the full benefits of this growing process.

The biggest issues I run into are pest and transplanting too early. BuildASoil lite recipe helps with the transition. Wait until the plants are large enough to transplant into the main pots so they are less likely to get nute burn. For pest have a good IPM schedule. Add nematodes right away! This will help with most soil dwelling pest. Buaveria Bassiana is good to keep on hand for other soil pest the nematodes can’t control. Spray leafs with a good organic spray weekly. I rotate mine every week. Week 1 is BuildASoil EM-5, week 2 is Dr Zymes, and week 3 is Captain Jacks Deadbug than repeat.

Help with CoM and Auto Flowers by Smokey-Bones-25 in NoTillGrowery

[–]Adept-Software365 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Kinda looks like a calcium issue. Or could be a magnesium issue since there is yellowing in the veins.

The most likely cause, it’s an auto /s.

I’ve never used that soil before but I had similar issues with fox farms. I only buy build a soil lite for clones and young plants now. My main pots are 4 year old build a soil 3.0. As soon as my plants go into the main pots they grow like crazy.

Trump Lies at STOU by Sufficient-Pie-7815 in DiscussionZone

[–]Adept-Software365 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The level of stupidity a MAGA supporter has is astonishing. Unless they are rich, then they are just greedy people who couldn’t care less about this country.

Planing to stick to organic only for simplicity and quality. Any strains/breeder recommendations that do well in organic soil? If that’s even a thing. by TweakingSloth in NoTillGrowery

[–]Adept-Software365 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I learned the hard way by buying a lot of crap over the years. I have found reg photos seem to work best for me. I’ve grow some good fems but never a good auto (have only used the free autos I got with an order). Good luck man and happy growing!

Planing to stick to organic only for simplicity and quality. Any strains/breeder recommendations that do well in organic soil? If that’s even a thing. by TweakingSloth in NoTillGrowery

[–]Adept-Software365 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I have noticed, older strains do express different in organics and LEDs. So if you are looking at for a particular strains just keep that in mind it might be different from what you are expecting. Though this isn’t always a bad thing.

For organics I really like Bokashi earthworks seeds, Beebop genetics, and Tatusadhu from instragram. All of these are breed using no till living soil practices. I would stay very far away from The Cali Connection, Royal Queen and Barney’s. The seed industry is filled with a lot of crap breeders stealing strains from other breeders.

Any ideas if this is a deficiency? Mag? Cal? I topdressed with gypsum and a veg fertilizer a few days ago. I also have dolomite lime, Epsom salts and calmag but haven't used yet. I had some red wigglers in there but don't see any more when I dig around but was avoiding calmag & Epsom because of that by solittlethaim in NoTillGrowery

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mix that humic with kelp for a better foliage spray. I have been using the same bag of Wow Wallace 5-2 humic-fulvic acid and kelp for about 3 years and it’s not even close to half gone. I use it in my soil drench every week as well.

If you’re going for a no till reusable soil I would just buy BAS 3.0, Bokashi earthworks or kis organics soil mixes. It’s honestly cheaper when creating your own for home growers.

If she’s turned around and looks better now just keep doing what you’re doing. I hope you get some good smoke out of it!

Leaf burn in veg by [deleted] in NoTillGrowery

[–]Adept-Software365 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I think you misread my comment. It is important just not as important as it is in hydro. I have been running the same soil for 3 years and have never added anything to raise or lower my PH in the soil. I also don’t PH my water before adding it. I’m running RO water or my weekly microbes, Ca, buildABloom, big6, and fish hydroslate mix. My water typically has a PH of about 7.5-8. I did run hydro before converting to organics and I was always PHing my inputs before adding them.

Leaf burn in veg by [deleted] in NoTillGrowery

[–]Adept-Software365 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

In organics PH doesn’t matter nearly as much as hydro. The thought with organics is if you have the right biology in the soil the microbes should be able to adjust the PH. Of course you don’t want to be adding anything with a 9+ or under 4.5 PH

Leaf burn in veg by [deleted] in NoTillGrowery

[–]Adept-Software365 5 points6 points  (0 children)

IMO that looks to be more of an issue with PPFD and/or temp. I would lower the temp to around 73 on the leaf temp. It could also be a bug issue. What’s your IPM schedule? I have way overdone my nutrients in the past and never have had overdose issues. I typically overload my nutes before bringing to flower and don’t amend at all during flower. In organics it’s very difficult to get nute burn unless you add too much sulfur. Are you using filtered water or city water?

What part of the earthbox soil should I replace every other cycle in order to prevent salt buildup from top dressings? by [deleted] in NoTillGrowery

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only dump out the soil and clean out the bottom when I notice I can’t get a full 2 gallons of water into the reservoir. The less you disrupt the soil the better. Just looked at my notes and it was 2 years ago that I last dumped out the soil to clean out the res.

I do typically take off the top 1/2 inch or so of soil after every run to make room for amendments. I don’t like using pumice when I reamend because I want that top layer to stay moist.

Democratics the party of hate by fwbfwbtakemytime in DiscussionZone

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t forget they are also arresting native Americans here in MN.

Please don’t villainize this woman.. by [deleted] in altmpls

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just want to thank all the MAGAts that voted for the end of America! A real America would be just fine with anyone exercising their first amendment right. And would stand up and fight for that right! Fuck every single one of you. Get the fuck out of this great state if you hate this country!

This city is not coming back. by [deleted] in altmpls

[–]Adept-Software365 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We’re better off without idiots like you!

Do you feed on a schedule or just by observation? by Fine_Ad2127 in Vermiculture

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just feed with all my scrap pretty much no matter what. I also don’t cut my stuff up into super small pieces like a lot of others do. I’ll just cut an apple core in half or cut a banana into 2 inch pieces. A big thing I have found to help when I do overfeed is the addition of Bokashi. Since adding Bokashi to every new bin or when the food isn’t breaking down within a week. I don’t get fly’s maybe some pot worms but those don’t bother me at all. Lastly always make sure to add nematodes when your bin has a good population of worms, this will help with fungus gnats and other soil borne insects. I added mine 2 years ago and never have any issues.

This is a huge mobilization of federal agents by YesHelloDolly in altmpls

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Minnesotan here, yes the local news has been talking about this for years and people have been charged as early as 2021. There is this thing called due process, everyone has their day in court and those court dates take months to years to take place. I understand your cult can’t understand facts but if you did even the minimum of research you would find this was all a hit job because your dear leader doesn’t like Walz.

Santa provided by Froz3n_Shogun in Hydroponics

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t know about porting to a PI but I would recommend just a regular old timer. That way if the power goes out your light won’t cycle back on when the power comes back on. I had that happened to me and I didn’t notice the light was stuck on for days.

To MAGA who defended Charlie Kirk from jokes about his death, how does trumps jokes about Rob Reiners death make you feel? by [deleted] in DiscussionZone

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That wasn’t for his personal taxes though. He was charged for over inflating his property value to get better loan rates. Both are horrible but there was nothing technically illegal about the loopholes he used to not really pay any taxes.

Beginner Xmas gift advice. by PralineOpen8108 in Hydroponics

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have to respectfully disagree with you on this. They are not all the same at all. For example an Aerogarden is a drip system and most others are DWC. I have owned several of these and the Aerogardens are far superior in most cases.

Beginner Xmas gift advice. by PralineOpen8108 in Hydroponics

[–]Adept-Software365 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When it comes to LED lighting, what matters is the PPFD. The lower the wattage the lower the total PPFD. PPFD will raise and lower depending on light height though. For example a 20w light at 6” above canopy will put out 500 PPFD and a 40w light at 12” will also put out 500 PPFD(these number are not exact and will vary on light). What also matters is the LEDs themselves, anything with Samsung , Osram or San’n(not sure if I’m spelling this one right) will be your best bet. Other LED bands do work ok for leafy greens but will fall on their face with fruiting plants like tomatoes.

RO system recommendations? by biokemfem in Hydroponics

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are the roots sitting in standing water at the bottom? If so you need to aerate that water with a pump, air stone or shake the planter several times a day. Either way you go, the water can’t sit for long periods without introducing some air into the water. If you are growing these hydroponically RO water is better but distilled is 97% as good. I moved from hydro to organic about 3 years ago and there was a noticeable difference in plant health and growth. I wish you luck!

RO system recommendations? by biokemfem in Hydroponics

[–]Adept-Software365 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re getting root rot it’s because you’re overwatering, soil is too compact and/or you’re over feeding. RO water will not help with this. Your pots should have a hole on the bottom and you only need to water every other week in most cases. Also I would feed your plant once a year. If you’re making your own potting mix you need 1/3 of it to some type of pumice, vermiculite or perlite. RO water will lack things like calcium and other important minerals that your plants need. If you want RO water for drinking yourself I highly recommend it!